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February 21, 2012

It's Complicated, Van Cleef & Arpels "Poetic Wish"

At the Salon International de La Haute Horology in Geneva, January 2012, Van Cleef & Arpels revealed its most technical complication yet - the Poetic Wish (ladies' and men's version). Each version features a retrograde time hours and minutes indication and a 5-minute repeater.

On demand, with the turn of the crown at 2 o'clock, three automatons depict a scene on the dial. The figure (man or woman) moves towards the center of the dial with the hours, accompanied by a mother-of-pearl cloud coming from the opposite direction. When they meet, a shooting star emerges and shows the minutes (a kite takes he place of the star in the ladies' version). These actions are enhanced by the chiming of the hours and minutes.

The watch movement, which includes a true constant force escapement, was designed and manufactured by Jean-Marc Weiderrecht and Agenhor. It uses three barrels, two for the movement, one for the figures on the dial side. It has 458 parts, runs at 21,600 vph (3Hz) and has a 60-hour power reserve. This in-house movement has a constantly running seconds display and hours and minutes, all viewable through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The dials, which are done by Olivier Vaucher, are handmade works of art which require skilled masters in sculpting and engraving of gold, miniature enamel painting, mother-of-pearl sculpting and stone-setting.

The Poetic Wish is a superb combination of high watchmaking and high jewelry. The Lady Arpels Poetic Wish comes in white gold set with diamonds of D E F colour and VVS clarity. The bracelet is made of two materials: a pearl grey moiré silk and calfskin leather. The men's Midnight Poetic Wish timepiece comes in white gold with a bracelet made of two materials: alligator "Clair de lune" skin and calf suede. Furthermore, each timepiece is presented in its own extraordinary cabinet made of precious woods and mother-of-pearl inlay.

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