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January 2013

Hands-On With A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Lumen

After the success of the Zeitwerk Luminous, which is currently still backordered around the world, A. Lange & Söhne illuminated the Grand version of its most iconic timepiece, the Lange 1. This time, its called Lumen, instead of Luminous, but the effect is the same. A smoke sapphire crystal dial allows a view into the movement, from the front side. Luminous paint was used for the markers, hands and on Lange’s patent date display. This gives the watch a totally different look.

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SIHH: Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee (+Video)

The highlight of SIHH at Jaeger-Lecoultre was the introduction of a new Grand Complication, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee. It features a Fying Gyrotourbillon and a spherical balance spring. It is also equipped with a monopusher chronograph with an instantaneous digital display activated. The components are exposed on both sides. Presented in a 43.5mmby 15.5mm thick. Alligator leather strap with double folding buckle. Silvered and silvered opaline dials. Dauphine hands. Water-resistant 50 meters. Click through to watch the video.

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SIHH: Video Demonstration of the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Lumen

Lange Director of Product Development Anthony de Haas demonstrates the Grand Lange 1 Lumen. Read more HERE and see hands-on images HERE.

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Collector: Patek Philippe Ref. 5550P Advanced Research Perpetual Calendar

This is a wristshot of a very rare Patek Philippe I saw at SIHH last week, a Ref. 5550P. Originally launched at Baselworld 2011, the watches are finally reaching collectors now. The Patek Philippe Advanced Research 5550P is the fourth in a series of watches equipped with Patek’s advanced silicium components. Unlike the annual calendars from the first three models in the series, the 5550P uses a modified caliber 240QP Perpetual movement, and for the first time, it includes Patek’s complete system of silicium components, referred to as “Oscillomax”, it consists of a Pulsomax escape wheel and pallet fork, GyromaxSi balance wheel with adjustable gold weights, and the Spiromax hairspring.

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Introducing the Audemars Piguet Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Diver Hands-On

Last week at SIHH 2013, Audemars Piguet introduced a new Royal Oak Diver in black ceramic. Audemar Piguet’s new diver will sit alongside the stainless steel and forged carbon divers in the model lineup, however, ceramic may eventually supersede forged carbon. Audemars Piguet was the first watchmaker to utilize forged carbon, and while it was originally considered to be an exclusive high-tech material perfect for watch cases and bezels, they have since decided to put more focus on ceramic, as it is much stronger.

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Jason Pitsch

Interview with Michel Parmigiani of Parmigiani Fleurier

Jason Pitsch

Jason Pitsch: When did you start in watchmaking? Michel Parmigiani: I started in 1975. At a time of crisis for watchmaking, a very dark time. Everyone was trying to discourage me from taking that path at the time. Watchmaking was completely devastated in Switzerland. There had been a tremendous crisis. My beginnings were very difficult but I really believed in what I was doing and went against the tide. And it wasn’t a bed of roses. I started my activity at the time in the region where I was born…and the economy was completely devastated at the time. The only watchmaker that had remained active at the time was Piaget, at the time, all the others had had to close down. And they managed to weather the storm and not disappear. And even that was an inspiration to me because

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The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronograph Jack Heuer Edition

Hot on the heels of last year’s winning Jack Heuer 80th Birthday Carrera comes this new special edition from TAG Heuer, announced just a few days ago. Like last year’s model, this limited edition Carrera celebrates a milestone - but in this case, not Mr. Heuer’s birthday — but it’s the birthday of the Carrera model itself, which is 50 years old as of 2013. The TAG Heuer Honorary Chairman was responsible for the design of the original Carrera in 1953 and continues to play a role in the conceptualization of modern editions. In that tradition, this piece was named for him to celebrate 50 years of the model, and features Mr. Heuer’s coat of arms and signature on the sapphire display back. Unlike last year’s restrained and retro-themed 80th Birthday model, the Calibre 1887 Chronograph Jack Heuer edition is

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SIHH 2013 Photo Report

This is a small sampling of what we have seen at SIHH 2013. Stay tuned for more coverage.

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Very early Rolex Pre-Daytona Chronograph

The Rolex Daytona Cosmograph may be the single most iconic sports chronograph in horological history. In fact, the Daytona turns 50 this year, and you can be sure there will be much ado about that milestone before the year is out (we’ll be providing plenty of coverage). But before the endurance motor racing prizes, celebrity ownership, and cult status, the storied timepiece began simply as a Oyster Chronograph, a simple and effective timekeeping instrument referred to now as the “Pre Daytona.”

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Girard Perregaux ww.tc Chronograph in steel Hands-On

There is something indescribably awesome about wearing a world-timer. It may have something to do with the increased functionality of a mechanical timepiece that does much more than just keep the local time (instead of just relying on a smartphone). It may have something to do with the added complexities of the mechanical movement, the design layout of its dial, or the extra crown which operates the internally rotating bezel to cycle through time zones. But for me, I think the awesomeness has more to do with the lifestyle wearing one suggests. It is cool to think of oneself as a man of the world - and having a wristwatch that keeps you appraised of international city times with a quick glance of the wrist gives the feeling that you’ve “made it,” and you know what’s up — everywhere. But

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