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November 2013

Panerai Luminor 1950 PAM557 Left-Handed

This is a preview the PAM577 that will be officially launched in Geneva at SIHH 2014. The Luminor 1950 Left-Handed model comes in a 47 mm steel case with a plexiglass crystal. It is essentially a left hand crown version of the Panerai PAM 372. The dial features a sandwich construction with cut outs for the hours, and for the “Luminor Panerai” marking, with luminous material underneath. Inside, is a P.3000 in-house movement that is manually wound and has double barrels that offer a 72-hour power reserve. It comes with a rubber strap, a leather strap and an extra sapphire crystal.

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Ralph Lauren Automotive Flying Tourbillon

SIHH 2014 Preview Ralph Lauren has just released a preview of a new tourbillon they will launch in January at SIHH. It is inspired by Ralph Lauren’s personal 1938 Type 57SC Bugatti Atlantic Coupe. The Ralph Lauren Automotive Flying Tourbillon is presented in a 44.80 mm by 11.20 mm steel case that has been shot blasted and treated with a black finish. The dial features a distinctive burlwood flange, secured by four screws. Hours are marked by printed, luminous Arabic numerals and indexes. The hour and minute hands are sword-shaped and feature a Shiny black oxidized finish with beige luminous paint. The center of the dial has a black matte galvanic finish. The watch is equipped with a flying tourbillon that is visible at 6 o’clock.

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Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon

This is a preview of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon that Audemars Piguet will officially unveil at SIHH 2014 in January. The original Royal Oak Concept was launched in 2002, and there have been a number of subsequent updates that followed. This year’s model features a white ceramic bezel, crown and pusher — with a titanium middle case. Additionally, white ceramic was incorporated into the upper bridge of the caliber 2913 movement — visible when you look at the dial. It is the white hourglass shaped component that runs from 12 to 6 o’clock.

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Hands-On with the Zenith El Primero 36'000 VPH in Steel

This is a brief Hands-On look at Zenith El Primero 36’000 VPH in stainless steel. The 42 mm by 12.75 mm stainless steel case features alternating polished and brushed surfaces. On the wrist, it feels great and looks smaller than the dimensions suggest. This particular model is powered by a 400 B caliber El Primero automatic movement. It runs at 5Hz, has 326 components (31 of which are jewels), with a max power reserve of 50-hours. The oscillating weight is skeletonized and has been finished with Geneva stripes, along with circular graining on the bridges. The sapphire crystal is domed with anti-glare treatment on both sides. The caseback has a flat sapphire crystal. The dial features a silver-toned sunray finish with Zenith’s signature triple-color counters. The hour markers and hands are are faceted, rhodium-plated and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1.

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The Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronographs

Clifton Chronograph collection Baume & Mercier recently released photos of their new Clifton Chronograph collection which will be unveiled in January at SIHH 2014. The timepieces will be equipped with 25 jewel ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic movements that are decorated with circular graining on the mainplate and Geneva stripes on the bridges and oscillating weight. The 7750 runs at 4Hz, has a power reserve of 48-hours and features rhodium plated screws. All of this is visible through the anti-glare sapphire crystal caseback which is secured with 4 screws.

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The Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Excellence Platine

Preview SIHH 2014 Vacheron Constantin has just released a preview of one of their new timepieces that will launch at SIHH — the Malte Tourbillon Excellence Platine. It is presented in 38 x 48.24 mm by 12.73 mm thick fully polished 950 platinum tounneau shaped platinum case. Inside is the Geneva Seal in-house caliber 2795 — a manual winding movement that runs at 2.5Hz, has 169 components, 27 of which are jewels, and a power reserve of 45-hours.

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The Rolex Reference 5513 Matte Dial

Rolex Ref. 5513 Matte Dial This is a Rolex Ref. 5513 Submariner with a matte dial and no-date. It is was produced for a longtime by Rolex (from 1962-1990) and so there are a number of variations between different model years. This is an earlier example from 1967 which has “feet” printed on the dial first (versus “meters” first on the dial), printed hour indexes (versus applied metal indexes) and a matte dial (versus a glossy dial). As far as collectibility and resale, the “meters” first is worth more money.

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: From the Boardroom to the Beach, The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph (Part II)

Jason Pitsch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph at the beach As we mentioned in (Part I) of this review, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph is an excellent desk diver — but now we are going to tell you how it performs in the ocean. During a recent trip to the Caribbean, over the course of three days, I tested the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea in its native environment. I wore it swimming, snorkeling, skin diving, paddle boarding and boating.

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: From the Boardroom to the Beach, The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph (Part I)

Jason Pitsch

Introduction We recently tested the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph, which was first introduced in May 2012. In our review, we will show you our original photos and give your our thoughts on how the watch feels on the wrist, how it looks, and how it works — like usual. However, for this particular review, we will take what we typically do a step further. We not only tested the Deep Sea in our office and in the concrete jungle, New York City, we also took it to its native environment — the sea.

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HAMMERED: A. Lange & Söhne Double-Split in Stainless Steel

At Christie’s latest auction in Geneva on November 11, 2013 — an A. Lange & Söhne Double-Split in stainless steel sold for 380,000 Euros. That is over half a million USD, or about 4 times the original retail price of a platinum Double-Split. This one-of-a-kind prototype was made in 2006 as an experiment to test lighter materials (a gold or platinum case measuring 43 mm by 15.3 mm is very heavy). It apparently never went into production, hence its rarity. Apart from some obscure pieces, like this steel Double-Split, the German luxury brand exclusively uses gold or platinum for all their watches.

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