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Retrospective: Best Articles of 2014

December 2014

Retrospective: Best Articles of 2014

It was an interesting year in watches, especially with the introduction of the Apple watch, which represents an entirely new category of watches. But even as the industry changes, our focus will remain on traditional watchmaking. Today, the last day of 2014, we have compiled a list of of top ten articles from 2014, just as we did in 2013.

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Hands-On with Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique

In 2005, Greubel Forsey introduced the Double Tourbillon 30° which featured one tourbillon cage completing a rotation every 60-seconds (at an angle of 30°), inside an outer cage with a four minute rotation. This was the brand’s first horological creation, and is the basis for the Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Platinum Bi-Color (pictured). The large platinum case has a fixed, stepped bezel and measures 47.5 mm by 16.84 mm. Greubel Forsey’s philosophy is engraved on black ADLC-treated plates which are screwed to the sides of the case. The central hands, which have been skeletonized and feature large arrow shaped tips with white luminous material, indicate hours and minutes. The hours are marked by indexes that are hand applied to a sapphire chapter ring. At 9 o’clock is a small seconds subsidiary display. And at 3 o’clock is a power reserve

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Pre-SIHH 2015: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon

In addition to the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton that we showed you last week, Roger Dubuis will also be debuting the Excalibur Spider Flying Tourbillon at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie next month. The new timepiece is presented in an ultra-light titanium case, with a black aluminum caseband (it measures 45 mm by 13.75 mm). Fittingly, the lugs have been skeletonized, enhancing the sporty nature of the watch, as well as further reducing the total weight. The dial is fully skeletonized with a black chapter ring, a white minute track and titanium screws that mark the hours. The hour and minute hands are in a black DLC treated gold and have been skeletonized. A one-minute flying tourbillon, adorned with a tourbillon carriage in the shape of a Celtic cross, is located at 7 o’clock. The movement, caliber RD505SQ, is

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Pre-Basel 2015: Breguet Tradition Automatique Second Retrograde 7097

Breguet will debut a new Tradition watch model with a retrograde complication at Baselworld 2015. Located at 10 ‘clock, the seconds hand travels from 0-60 across the display, and then instantly jumps back to zero, every 60-seconds. The Tradition comes in a variation of models, including a GMT and Fusee and Chain tourbillon, which all have the collection’s signature feature: the movement is showcased on top of the baseplate. Contrary to the configuration you see on most timepieces, the Tradition line breaks tradition, by revealing the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and other components of the movement, which are usually hidden beneath the baseplate – on the dial side. And while the layout of the dial is completely unconventional, the finishing stays true to conventional haute horology standards. The dial is decorated with a conventional engine-turned hobnail pattern, done by hand,

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Herman Miller and Howard Miller clocks

In 1927 the Herman Miller Clock Company division of the office furniture company was founded to produce and sell clocks under the Herman Miller name. In 1937, the clock division was turned over to Howard Miller, the son of Herman Miller, and renamed Howard Miller Clock Company. According to the Howard Miller website, Howard was trained in the fine art of clockmaking by his father, Herman, in the Black Forest region of Germany. Herman Miller Z clock designed by Gilbert Rohde While he was design director for Herman Miller, New York architect Gilbert Rohde designed a series of desktop clocks that echo the modern style of his furnishings, most notably the Z Clock, which is extremely rare and worth a lot of money, if you can even find one. Today, Herman Miller and Howard Miller are separate companies, although their

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Pre-SIHH 2015: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

Roger Dubuis will debut a new time-only version of their popular Excalibur Skeleton collection at SIHH 2015. It will be presented in a 42 mm pink gold case, with the same aesthetic as the tourbillon models, such as the distinctive grey rhodium-plated and circular grained skeletonized bridges, but in an automatic with just hours and minutes.

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Pre-SIHH 2015: Baume & Mercier Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve

At the upcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie show Baume & Mercier will present a new Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve wristwatch. The new model comes in 43 diameter stainless steel case with polished and satin-brushed finishing, a fixed steel bezel and an open caseback. It is powered by a Swiss automatic caliber that is finished with circular graining, Cotes de Geneva, blued screws and an oscillating weight that is engraved with the Greek letter “Phi” – a symbol of the Divine Proportion and the brand’s logo. The dial is silvered with contrasting rose gold applied hour numerals/markers (except at 6 o’clock which is were the 40-hour power reserve indicator is located). The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands are rose-gold plated, facetted and polished. The central second hand is also rose-gold plated, as is the frame of the

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Jason Pitsch

Hands-On with the Greubel Forsey GMT Black

Jason Pitsch

In 2011, Greubel Forsey introduced the GMT, a timepiece that goes well beyond a conventional second time zone watch by incorporating a terrestrial globe completing each anti-clockwise rotation in 24h – the same direction in which our planet spins. Today, in advance of its official SIHH 2015 debut, we bring you an exclusive hands-on look at the latest version: the GMT Black. The GMT Black comes in the same asymmetrical-shaped case as the original (43.5 mm by 16.14 mm), but now in ultra-light titanium with a vacuum deposited black ADLC coating. And while Greubel Forsey did not have the exact weight available, in my hand, the gold version feels approximately twice as heavy as the titanium. The amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) coating is much harder than natural titanium and is highly resistant to scratches. The top of the case and

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SIHH 2015: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar with meteorite dial

Jaeger-LeCoutre will debut a new meteorite dial version of the Master Calendar next month at SIHH. It will be offered in either steel or pink gold, with the same dimensions as the current model (39 x 10.6 mm), and with the same automatic movement (caliber 866).

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Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Ulysse Nardin has created a Perpetual Calendar Manufacture timepiece exclusively for their brand boutiques worldwide. Presented in a 43 mm platinum case, with a blue dial and caliber UN-32 inside, it is the only perpetual calendar to allow forward and backwards adjustment over one single crown, according to Ulysse Nardin. The automatic “manufacture” movement is COSC certified, has 34 jewels, a 48-hour power reserve, and is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback. The perpetual calendar is adjustable via a single crown. There is also a second-time zone display on the main dial with patented quick setting mechanism. The home time indicated by 3rd hand.

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