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June 2015

Jason Pitsch

Tudor Black Bay One for Only Watch

Jason Pitsch

The 6th edition of the biennial Only Watch charity auction of unique timepieces that are specially produced and sold to benefit research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, takes place in November 2015 in Geneva. And we’ve recently begun previewing the pieces on PROFESSIONAL WATCHES, starting with the Laurent Galet Square seen here, and now Tudor has announced a unique version of the Black Bay to be sold to support this noble cause. Tudor’s one-of-a-kind Heritage Black Bay One (Ref. 7923/001), like previous Black Bay models, is the result of a mixture of elements from across Tudor’s history, with the focus being on the 1954 Ref. 7923, the second Tudor Submariner. A black gilt dial with a gold transferred minute track, Tudor Geneva logo, and the word “SHOCK-RESISTING” pay homage to the 7923. Gold-plated applied hour markers and stick shaped hands, are

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Oris ProPilot Big Crown Calibre 111

Jason Pitsch

Today, Oris introduces a new pilot’s watch powered by their in-house developed Calibre 111. In 2014, Oris launched the Calibre 110, and followed up by adding a date function earlier this year at Baselworld, and calling it the Calibre 111. This is the second watch to receive the manufacture movement, and likely not the last. A satin-finished stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter houses the hand-wound 3Hz Swiss movement which boasts a 10-day power reserve and a dial side reserve indicator. The sapphire crystal has a double interior anti-glare treatment and is topped with a fixed diagonal coin-edge bezel, which Oris says is, “inspired by jet engine turbines.” Further, the power reserve indicator (at three o’clock) is aptly designed to look like an airplane fuel gauge. The dial features a “smooth anthracite” finish and applied Arabic numerals coated

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Rolex Submariner customized by Tempus Machina

Tempus Machina takes a modern Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 and re-makes the exterior to look like a Submariner Ref. 6538 Big Crown, while leaving the modern caliber 3130 movement inside, untouched. The 6538 was made famous when Sean Connery wore it in James Bond. And now, the circa 1958 timepiece, is among the most collectible Rolexes there is. Today, Rolex makes the Submariner Ref. 114060, which is a represents the continuous evolution of the 6538. However, many collectors still want the old look, and so that is why Tempus Machina decided to produce this model. Temps Machina has taken the Rolex dial and stripped and polished it, along the addition of 18K gold hands and transfers, to give it the vintage gilt look. Further, the original 114060 bezel was re-profiled to create its unique “coin-edge” teeth. A Cerachrom (ceramic) insert

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El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute To The Rolling Stones

At Baselworld this year, Zenith introduced a limited edition El Primero Chronomaster timepiece as a tribute to the Rolling Stones. Measuring 45 mm in diameter by 14.05 mm thick, the black DLC-coated titanium case features flat chronograph pushers and uniquely hollowed out lugs, similar to the El Primero Lightweight. The bezel and lug edges are polished while the rest of the case is satin brushed. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides protects the dial. Matching the case is a matte black dial adorned with black ruthenium-plated applied, facetted hours markers that have been coated with black luminous material. The wide hands are also black ruthenium-plated with black luminous material. In between 9 and 11 o’clock on the dial is an opening the reveals the balance wheel and bridge, along with the small seconds display. At 3

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Ressence Type 1 V Genesis

Five years ago, Belgian watchmaker, Ressence, introduced a timepiece, unlike anything we’ve ever seen. A watch that lacks conventional hands, instead displaying the time via sub-discs that continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set, “like moons in orbit around a planet.” Based on this concept, Ressence has quickly become very popular among collectors and watch enthusiasts. From the Type 1 to the newer version of the Type 1, to the Type 3 - everything they do is unique and highly innovative. Not just the mechanism, or way of telling the time, even details as small as the strap designs have been re-imagined in new ways. To celebrate their fifth anniversary, Ressence announces the limited edition Type 1 V Genesis. According to the manufacturer, this is no re-issue from the archives, “Some, in fact, might say

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Chopard L.U.C. XPS Fairmined Gold

Last year, Chopard introduced the first watch created with Fairmined gold, which consists of a certification that guarantees the gold was extracted in a responsible manner and that the miners receive fair payment. Similar to conflict-free diamonds, this certification adds a premium but ensures that these precious resources are extracted ethically. This year, Chopard unveiled their second watch with the Fairmined gold certification, the L.U.C XPS Fairmined Gold. Crafted from rose colored gold, the case measures 39.5 mm by 7.13 mm, which has exactly the same dimensions as the standard L.U.C. XPS we reviewed HERE. The new movement, caliber 96.12-L, is virtually the same as caliber 91.12-L. It runs at 4Hz, has 172 components (29 jewels), dual stacked barrels for 65-hour power reserve, Geneva stripes on the bridges, perlage on the mainplate. And it is only 3.30 mm thick. The

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Roger Dubuis Hommage Millésime Pocket Watch

Roger Dubuis is launching the first of a unique series of timepieces based on antique movement blanks gifted by Mr Roger Dubuis himself, and each will be restored using the most authentic high-watchmaking techniques. This series coincides with the 20th anniversary of the manufacture Roger Dubuis and will include 20 different creations, one for each year the company has been in existence. All of the restoration piece will bear the Poinçon de Genève seal and include a perpetual, either by itself, or along with one of these three horological complications: minute repeater, tourbillon or chronograph. The Hommage Millésime is presented in a 60 mm by 22 mm pink gold pocket watch case with Roger Dubuis’ signature hand engraved on the officers-type (hinged cover over top of sapphire) caseback. The bezel is polished, as are the buttons, minute repeater lever and

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Breguet Type XX Aéronavale flyback chronograph

Breguet’s Type XXI and XXII collections feature 42 mm and 44 mm diameter cases, respectively. However, there is also a third, lesser known size, represented by the Type XX designation. The Type XX Aéronavale flyback chronograph is 39 mm in diameter by 14.4 mm tall, with fluted case flanks, polished lugs and a rotating satin brushed steel bezel. It’s the smallest men’s watch in the collection, and proportionally our favorite. With a black dial as the background, the steel hands and Arabic numerals are treated with a white luminescent material that contrasts perfectly and offer excellent readability. The 30-minute chronograph hand at three o’clock is also luminescent. Visible within the 12-hour totalizer at six o’clock is a date aperture (also available without a date). The outer chapter ring has white graduations, with a dot marking every fifth minute. A polished

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Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Jacky Ickx Edition

This year at the 24 Hour of Le Mans, Porsche won, in fact their three teams came in 1st, 2nd and 5th. With seventeen 1st place victories, the Stuttgart based automobile manufacturer has the most wins of any manufacturer. The Porsche teams drove LMP1 Porsche 919 Hybrid racecars (shown). The winning team includes drivers Nico Hülkenberg, Mark Webber and Romain Dumas. On the occasion of the victory, Chopard unveiled a new limited edition watch, the Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Jacky Ickx, dedicated the Mr. Ickx, who had an impressive six Le Mans wins during his career. Presented in a 45 mm by 15.08 mm stainless steel case, both the steel bezel and steel caseback are secured by eight blackened steel screws. The back is engraved with the inscriptions “Official Timing Partner Porsche Motorsport” and “Jacky Ickx Limited Edition.” A screw-locked

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Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Balance Spring

Winner of the Best Men’s Watch award at the 2010 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Balance Spring comes in a variety of models, including red gold with a white grand feu enamel dial (pictured). The case measures 41 mm in diameter and is polished to a mirror finish. Dark grey polished hands, black Roman numerals, black train track minute ring and a small seconds subdial (at 6 o’clock) with red graduations stand out against the beautiful white enamel dial. The signature “Assegai-shaped” hour and minute hands are particularly striking. Underneath the dial is a 23 jewel manually wound tourbillon movement (caliber 619.01), that beats at 3Hz and has an 80-hour power reserve. It features a tourbillon and an industry first double balance-spring that was developed and is produced in-house. According to Laurent Ferrier, “The balance-springs neutralize

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