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July 2015

The world's thinnest automatic flying tourbillon

Parmigiani Fleurier recently announced the Tonda 1950 Tourbillon which is both the world’s thinnest automatic flying tourbillon and has the world’s lightest tourbillon cage. The watch features a micro-rotor, in 950 platinum, which allows the movement to be so thin. In fact, according to the manufacture, the creation of caliber PF517 required integrating not just the micro-rotor – but also the barrel, the tourbillon cage, time setting mechanism and the central display system – into the main plate. Further, Parmigiani Fleurier arranged the movement components with exact precision to keep the time displayed in the center. This flying tourbillon, which is supported by only a single bridge (regular tourbillons are supported by two bridges), required a highly sophisticated ball bearing system for mounting, so as not to add thickness to the movement. Even the tourbillon cage had to be specially

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Chronometer 39 mm

Jason Pitsch

We have already shown you the Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Chronometer numerous times, including HERE in the 39 mm case and HERE in the 45 mm size. But recently, we took it a step further and wore the watch for a weekend in Vegas, around town, at the pool, at the club, giving it a more thorough test. Read on to hear our thoughts. First off, having a 7.5” wrist or smaller, the 39 mm seemed liked the ideal size. And upon arriving and strapping it on, we confirmed this. When we asked Ralph Lauren Watch Co. if the 39 mm is marketed towards men or women, they said it does, in fact, target the former, but can also be worn by the latter, as seen by so many women nowadays, who wear bigger watches. If you have extra-large wrists

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Jason Pitsch

The new Rolex Day-Date 40

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2015 Rolex introduced a new, larger version of the iconic Day-Date. Sitting alongside the 36 mm diameter model is the all new 40 mm case, the latter which is powered by the all-new caliber 3255. And like previous Day-Dates, it is exclusively available in platinum or gold. Originally introduced in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to use a full window to spell out the day of the week, alongside the date. This design was created to enhance legibility. And thanks to a Rolex-patented invention, the date discs move forward to the next day instantaneously (in a few milliseconds) at midnight, a feature that at the time was dubbed a “miracle at midnight.” Almost six decades later, the now iconic watch has graced the wrist of important leaders, captains of industry and celebrities around the globe –

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Jason Pitsch

Manufacture Royale 1770 Rose Gold Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2014, Manufacture Royale launched the 1770 collection which is named after the year the brand was originally founded. Presented in a 43 mm by 11.72 mm case, crafted in either rose gold or steel, the 1770 is distinguished by a 60-second flying tourbillon, visible through the large dial aperture at 7 o’clock. A “flying tourbillon” is not supported by a bridge, at both the top and bottom, instead it is cantilevered (being only supported from one side). The result, is a better view of the delicate mechanics as they perform their gravity defying ballet, for the wearer and any onlookers to admire. The dial of the rose gold model has a silvered opaline finish with applied rose gold hour markers that have been diamond-polished by hand. Huge rose gold sword-shaped central hands indicate the hours and minutes. At

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Jason Pitsch

Only Watch BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon

Jason Pitsch

Bell & Ross designed a unique timepiece for Only Watch witha its signature 46 mm case crafted from a unique bronze alloy. The alloy, which consists of (92%) copper and (8%) tin, has a micro-blasted finish and will gain a beautiful vintage patina over time. In addition, at the top of the dial sits a skull in hand-engraved solid gold. At the bottom of the dial is a flying 60-second tourbillon. And on the sides of the dial are power reserve indicator (left) and accuracy indicator (right). Further, the watch is a regulator, meaning all the functions are separated, such a the central minutes display, which is compeletly separate fromt he hour display. Interestingly, all the hands are sword-shaped – “pirate” sword-shaped. The caseback, which has a transparent sapphire crystal, is in grade 5 titanium, which is hypoallergenic, light, and

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Breguet Type XXI 3813 for Only Watch

Breguet introduces the Type XXI 3813 in a unique platinum case for Only Watch, which takes place in Geneva on November 7, 2015. Apart from the case being platinum and a special inscription on the back, this is the same as a production version of the Type XXI timepiece with a 42 mm diameter case, delicately fluted caseband, bidirectional rotating bezel, screw down crown and 100 meters water-resistance. The dial is in matte slate grey with luminescent hands and hour markers, as well as a chapter ring with luminescent Arabic numerals. A day/night indicator sits 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter and date aperture at 6 o’clock, with small seconds at 9 o’clock and a central minutes counter. Inside, is a self-winding chronograph movement with flyback function, numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 584Q/1 with a frequency of 4Hz, 25 jewels

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Only Watch Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL

For Only Watch 2015, Girard-Perregaux produced a one-off Vintage 1945 XXL with Large Date and Moon Phase in a titanium DLC case with a blue polycrystalline transparent dial. This rectangular timepiece comes in a case measuring 36.10 mm x 35.25 mm by 11.74 mm thick. At twelve o’clock is a large jumping date indicator which displays the date on a pair of discs, one of which is transparent, and is the subject of a patent. A moon phase indicator combined with a continuous small seconds function sits at six o’clock. Arabic hour numerals and indexes have been applied to the dial, along with a printed minute track. Powering the watch is automatic in-house caliber GP03300-0105 which runs at 4Hz, has 282 components (32 jewels) and a 46-hour power reserve. Functions include hour, minute, small second, large date and moon phases.

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Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar for Only Watch

Blancpain presents a one-off Traditional Chinese Calendar for Only Watch 2015. Housed inside a 45 mm diameter red gold case is a highly complicated movement that powers hours, minutes and a Gregorian calendar (typical calendar), as well as the indications of the Chinese calendar that include: traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, as well as the five elements and the 10 celestial stems. According to the manfacturer, “The combination of the latter with the 12 animals of the zodiac that represent the terrestrial branches follows the sixty-year cycle that is central to Chinese culture. The moon phases, a key element in Blancpain complete calendars, are also presented and play a particularly important role in this model, given the link between the lunar cycle and traditional Chinese months.” The black grand feu enamel

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Hautlence Conception d'Exception Vortex

First launched in 2010, Hautlence debuts another Concept d’Exception timepiece this month called: Vortex. The Vortex timepiece displays half-trailing hours, retrograde minutes and a power-reserve indicator. The display changes every hour, as the entire regulating organ rotates 60 degrees every 60 minutes. Inside is a redesigned and reinterpreted version of the innovative in-house automatic calibre HR2.0 presented in the first Concept d’Exception. Hautlence collaborated with the prominent Parisian design studio BBDC (Berra Blanquer Design Consultants) to create Vortex’s eye-catching and state-of-the-art design inspired by contemporary architecture. Vortex is available with three elegant straps that can interchanged with the included screwdriver. It is paired with a black Louisiana alligator leather strap with large square scales, a black hornback crocodile leather strap with red topstitching or a black rubber strap, each equipped with a folding clasp in grade 2 titanium with a

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5016 for Only Watch 2015

For Only Watch auction 2015 Patek Philippe has a created a unique edition of the Reference 5016 which features a tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar in a 36.8 mm diameter Calatrava-style case, in steel. According to the manufacturer, “as an additional refinement, the perpetual calendar is endowed with a retrograde date hand, which flies back to the 1st of the month after having reached the 28th, 29th, 30th or 31st under the action of an ingenious mechanism controlled by a spiral-coiled spring.” Caliber R TO 27 PS QR is manual winding and consists of 506 total parts, all finished by hand. Functions include ninute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand, day, month and leap year in apertures and moon phases. Reference 5016A-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2015 and is the first and only version of

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