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August 2015

SIHH will feature nine new exhibitors in 2016

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will add nine new exhibitors in 2016 that will take the space previously occupied by Ralph Lauren watches, who has decided to invest their show budget on other initiatives. Instead of each brand having a separate booth, they will have the 1,500 square meter space divided amongst them. The new exhibitors are: Hautlence, HYT, Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, MB&F, Christophe Claret, Urwerk, De Bethune and H. Moser & Cie. SIHH 2016 takes place from January 18th to Janaury 22nd.

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Jason Pitsch

Black Bay One In The Metal

Jason Pitsch

These are the first hands-on images of the unique Black Bay One that will be auctioned off in November for charity at Only Watch 2015. Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay One (Ref. 7923/001) is the result of a mixture of elements from across Tudor’s history, with the focus being on the 1954 Ref. 7923, the second Tudor Submariner. A black gilt dial with a gold transferred minute track, Tudor Geneva logo, and the word “SHOCK-RESISTING” pay homage to the 7923. Gold-plated applied hour markers and stick shaped hands, are also reminiscent of the 7923. The similarities continue with the black bezel insert with the red triangle at 12, however, like on previous Black Bay models, this design element is a nod to another reference, as opposed to just one. In this case, the red triangle comes from the original Tudor Submariner

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Jason Pitsch

Hands-On with the Christophe Claret Aventicum

Jason Pitsch

Christophe Claret, who has always been intrigued by the history of Aventicum, which was the capital of Roman Helvetia for more than 300 years and the ruins which are near the Swiss town on Avenches, decided to create a watch as an homage to this piece of history. The Aventicum features a micro-engraved gold replica of the Marcus Aurelius bust (who was Roman Emperor from 161 to 180) is in the center of the dial. The small-scale representation of the Emperor – measuring less than three millimetres – is displayed in magnified form by an invention called the mirascope. When viewed from the right angle, it gives the appearance of a 3D bust of Marcus Aurelius popping out of the dial. On the back side is a patented transparent sapphire-winding rotor of the automatic movement that is embellished with five

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Montblanc M by Marc Newson

Marc Newson, who designed the Marc Newson Atmos Clock for Jaeger-LeCoultre, and who helped design the Apple Watch, has designed a new pen collection for Montblanc called the Montblanc M. The M is made from black resin and is distinguished by highly rounded, glossy surfaces. Uniquely, the cap has a magnetic closure which keeps it perfectly aligned with the Montblanc logo on the barrel. A platinum-plated wire clip is seamlessly integrated into the cap. The nib on the fountain pen is 14K gold. Available as a fountain pen for $565 or rollerball or ballpoint for $400.

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: Oris Sixty-Five Diver

Jason Pitsch

Overview This year at Baselworld, Oris launched a vintage-inspired dive watch based on a model they produced in 1965 resulting in a timepiece that is basically an upgraded contemporary version of the original. The new Sixty-Five Diver has a larger diameter steel case with a sapphire crystal, rubber strap, and modern movement. Its predecessor had a chromium-plated brass case with a plexiglass and a plastic strap. Visually, they are very similar, but functionally the new model is far superior. Case The case measures 40 mm in diameter by 12.99 mm thick. The length is approximately 47.5 mm, and the lugs allow for a 20 mm strap. It wears very well, sitting nice and flat. At 78.9 grams, it is very light, which also adds to the comfort factor. Overall, this watch is a great size for my approximately 7.5” wrist.

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The 2015 Ralph Lauren Automotive Collection

Ralph Lauren expands on the Automotive collection with five new watches for 2015, drawing inspiration from Ralph Lauren’s own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe. The highlight of the new collection is the RL Automotive Skeleton, the brand’s first open-worked timepiece. “I’ve always been inspired by automotive design — the materials, the lines, but also the power and functionality. Cars are like art — moving art — an accomplishment in mechanics and precision.” – Ralph Lauren Details from the automotive world extend throughout the collection. The amboyna burl wood bezels, elm burl wood dials, and black alligator straps are reminiscent of the rich interiors of Mr. Lauren’s Bugatti, and the Arabic numerals emulate those found on the car’s iconic gauges. Each piece in the collection is powered by a Swiss mechanical movement, symbolizing the motor itself and offering precision and

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Sinn 103 A Sa B Pilot's Chronograph Limited Edition

Sinn recently announced a limited edition of their 103 Pilot’s watch. The Automatic Sapphire Blue “A Sa B” Pilot’s Chronograph comes in a 41 mm stainless steel case and will be available in a limited edition of 500 pieces with each individual number on the rotor. Inside the case is an inert argon gas designed to keep moisture out, the patented feature is called Ar-Dehumidifying Technology. A top grade Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement finished with circular graining and Geneva stripes powers the watch. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and day/date. The dial of this limited edition timepiece is electroplated metallic blue with a sunburst brushing and silver azurage subdials. The bi-directional rotating bezel is also in blue and features 0-60 scale. Water-resistance is 200 meters thanks in part to the locking crown and chronograph pushers. The Sinn 103

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Jason Pitsch

Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Arnold & Son has created a patented constant force tourbillon which is powered by the two mainsprings visible at the top of the dial. A constant force device is used to equalize the amplitude (and therefore the chronometry) of the watch regardless of how much power reserve is remaining in the mainspring barrel(s). Like a constant force device, a tourbillon aims to improve chronometry (timekeeping/accuracy), although it does is by compensating in gravity, as opposed to controlling the power delivery. As the mainsprings unwind and smoothly deliver power to the tourbillon regulating mechanism, this in turn powers the hours, minutes and most notably the dead beat seconds hand (located in between 6 and 9 o’clock). For reference, a dead beat seconds hand is an additional complication that makes the seconds hand tick like a quartz seconds hand versus the smooth

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Introducing the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Minute Quantième

Jaquet Droz, probably the least known brand within the Swatch Group, has introduced a timepiece collection, that for the first time, appears to be targeting a main stream, consumer. The Grande Heure Minute Quantième comes in either a 39 mm or 43 mm diameter stainless steel case with three hands (hours, minutes and central seconds) and a date function. It’s minimalist aesthetic, in my opinion, is a good thing considering the brand has typically focused on designs that are quite frankly, too eccentric for my tastes. Available with either silvered opaline or a blue Côtes de Genève dial, both with an applied ring and applied rhodium-plated indications. Additional details include blued steel or rhodium-plated Lance-shaped hands, red-tipped seconds hand, sunray crown, box crystal and open-circle counterweight. Uniquely, the date aperture sports a design with sharp angles and beveled edges perfectly

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Jason Pitsch

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Chronograph

Jason Pitsch

Vacheron Constantin has announced that they will produce a new chronograph based on a rare vintage reference from the 1950s – to debut at Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong next month. The Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Chronograph will retain the two-register layout of the original (ref. 6087), as well as its distinctive cornes de vache “cow horn” lugs. The case is slightly larger than the 6087 at 38.5 mm by 10.9 mm, but still very conservative and sure to please the serious collectors who the watch is targeted at. Powering the watch is caliber 1142 which is a movement originally based on Lemania and that has been reworked and is now made in-house. The movement now has a free-sprung balance and beats at 3Hz versus 2.5Hz (which the Lemania 2310 runs at). The chronograph levers have been redesigned,

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