PW, the Wristwatch Guide

Introducing the Omega Speedmaster Racing with Co-Axial Caliber 3300 Inside

2012-05-17T04:11:50Z

Introduced at Baselworld 2012 back in March, the Omega Speedmaster Racing, is a more affordable version of the brand's Co-Axial Speedmaster.

Instead of utilizing Omega's new in-house manufacture Co-Axial caliber 9300 which we discussed here.The Speedmaster Racing is powered by exclusive self-winding chronograph movement - caliber 3300. Caliber 3300 is considerably more affordable than the 9300, yet it still features Omega's proprietary Co-Axial escapement with 3 levels, a Si14 silicon balance spring, NIVACHOC shock absorber and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism. It has 31 jewels, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and a power-reserve of 52-hours. Moreover, it is an officially certified chronometer.

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The stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter by 15.05 mm in height and has the signature Speedmaster shape. The case flank edges and lugs, the bezel edges, the pushers and crown and the bracelet center links are polished while the rest of the watch is brushed. Lugs and bracelet links and screwed-in. The steel bracelet is 19 mm between the lugs and tapers to 18 mm at the clasp (a rubber strap is optional for $100 less). Stainless steel bezel with matte black aluminium tachymeter ring with scaling that matches the dial color.

Dial comes in a variety of colors (see below). Subdials feature triangular textured "Clou de Paris." Blackened, rhodium-plated hands and luminous hour and minute hands; luminous hour indexes. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and the date (displayed at 6 o'clock and can be corrected using the included tool to adjust the button at 10 o'clock). Central chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute recorder at 3 o'clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock.

The sapphire crystal has a double anti-reflective treatment and is slightly domed, but does not protrude out like the Speedmaster we featured here. Screw-in caseback stamped and polished with seahorse medallion. Water-resistance 100 meters.

The Omega Speedmaster does not technically feature an in-house manufacture movement, it does, however, have the brand's famous Co-Axial chronometer movement, made in-house, exclusively for Omega - all for under five grand. That is more than three grand below the price of the 9300 based Speedmaster.

Retail $4,800

Update: Dial variations and reference numbers:

1- black dial, white subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.01.002
2- grey dial, black subdials, yellow accents - Ref. 326.32.40.50.06.001
3- white dial, black subdials, yellow accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.04.001
4- red dial, black subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.32.40.50.11.001
5- blue dial, black subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.03.001

Raymond Weil Family Creates New Brand - 88 Rue du Rhone

2012-05-16T23:02:21Z

Today, Elie and Pierre Bernheim, grandsons of Raymond Weil, have announced a new watch accessibly priced (sub-$1,000) Swiss watch brand - 88 Rue du Rhone. Named after the famous shopping street in Geneva (similar to Fifth Avenue). The first watch designs will be unveiled at JCK in Las Vegas next month.

"The launch collection is comprised of both female and gents pieces ranging in size from 29mm to 42mm with both quartz and automatic movements. The brand's name comes from the famous and prestigious street in the city of Geneva, which mirrors the name of the city's river. The signature logo engrained in the design of the collection bears the number 88, encompassing the ideology of good fortune and representing infinity."

]]> "The creation of 88 Rue Du Rhone has been a labor of love and my brother and I are thrilled to bring our knowledge and background of the watchmaking industry to a brand that we are so passionate about," says Elie Bernheim, Co-Founder. "Style and wearability has been our mantra throughout this brand inception and we are excited to introduce this to the consumer", says Pierre Bernheim Co-Founder.

The collection will range from $395 to $995 and will be in more than 200 doors beginning Fall 2012.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph

2012-05-16T15:39:47Z

The Deep Sea Chronograph function indicator was inspired by a 1953 Jaeger Chronolight dashboard instrument (shown above).

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just revealed a new diving chronograph, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph. Unlike most chronographs, this one can be operated underwater. Breitling makes a magnetic quartz based chronograph that operates underwater, but as far as mechanical chronographs go, they typically do not work underwater.

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The Deep Sea Chronograph is powered by a self-winding caliber JL 758 with 47 jewels, 340 parts, a frequency of 28,800 vph and a 65-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (hour and minute counters, central sweep seconds hand) and chronograph operating indicator. The case is stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. Uni-directional rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal and matte dial with white Superluminova hour markers. Water-resistance 100 meters. Black leather with steel pin buckle.

"The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph has an operating indicator for the chronograph which contributes to divers' safety by enabling them to check at a glance that the chronograph is indeed measuring a certain time interval, that it is ready to be activated, or that the measured time is displayed on the various counters. This specific feature is inspired by a historical Jaeger- LeCoultre model: the Chronoflight.

Today's Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph is inspired by a technical device featured in the Chronoflight in order to make it available to divers. Appearing on the watch dial above the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, a round aperture reveals the chronograph operating indicator. The latter is composed of two discs - one white and the other red - which provide the required information regarding the state of the chronograph, without any risk of error. When the display is white, the chronograph is ready to be activated in order to begin measuring a time interval. Once the chronograph has started, the indicator window simultaneously shows both colours - red and white - in order to signal that a measurement is in progress. Finally, when the chronograph has stopped, the red disc appears on its own in the window to indicate that the measurement performed may be consulted, before resetting the chronograph."

The Deep Sea Chronograph meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch. (Divers' watches must be water resistant to 330 ft minimum (100 meters). They must also feature a time controller and comply with standards provided by NIHS 92-11 (ISO 6425): luminosity, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, band solidity.)

Ref. Q2068570

Retail $10,800

Edifice Casio Atomic Worldtimer Chronograph

2012-05-15T19:26:05Z

Read more about Edifice's flagship timepiece here.

The Victorinox Swiss Army Original Chronograph

2012-05-13T21:29:12Z

After the successful launch of the Victorinox Swiss Army Original collection last year at Baselworld, Victorinox decided to make a chronograph version.

The chronograph version has the same - 40 mm nylon fiber middle case, stainless steel back and center, anodized aluminum bezel and laser cut out markers - with the addition of a chronograph. The movement is a Swiss quartz (ETA G10.211); functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph (1/10th of a second precision) and date (at 4 o'clock). Shock resistant mineral crystal, screw-in caseback and locking crown. Luminous hour and minute hands. Water-resistance 100 meters. Nato strap made of 80% Japanese cotton and 20% polyester matching the dial. Available in green/black (shown), black, grey or gold.

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Ref. 241531

Retail $450

Raymond Weil Nabucco Cuore Vivo

2012-05-11T22:42:20Z

Raymond Weil recently announced the new Nabucco Cuore Vivo chronograph with a dial cut-out that allows a view of the movement's going train, balance and escapement.

The round case is 46 mm x 15.85 mm and is made of matte titanium and polished steel, with a circular matte titanium and polished steel tachymeter bezel. Steel screwed-down crown fluted with RW logo and steel screwed down fluted pushers. The dial is galvanic black, with a central checkered motif pattern in the center. Applied luminescent indexes and 12 o'clock Arabic numeral with polished edges. Titanium counters at 3 o'clock (30-minute counter), at 6 o'clock (12-hour counter) and at 9 o'clock (small seconds). Visible balance and escapement wheels at 10 o'clock. Steel hour and minute hands with luminescent material. Blued steel bâton second hand with glossy finish and blued counter hands.

]]> Inside, is self-winding caliber RW5400, a chronograph movement with a visible balance and escapement. It has 29 jewels, a rate of 28,8000 vph (4Hz) and a power reserve of 46-hours. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds (at 9 o'clock) and chronograph.

Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. Screwed down case back with sapphire glass. Black rubber alligator style, with black stitching, equipped with a RW folding clasp in titanium, opening with a double push-piece security. Limited to 400 pieces. Water-resistant 200 meters.

Ref. 7830 TIR 00207

Retail TBD

The Hublot Skull Bang

2012-05-10T00:44:32Z

This is the Hublot Skull Bang, a limited edition collector's timepiece developed by Hublot for the brand's friend, retailer Laurent Picciotto, who in 2007 opened Hublot's first brand boutique. Made entirely from black ceramic and featuring a skull on its dial the Skull Bang is limited to 100 pieces and will be exclusively at the Hublot boutique at Rue Saint Honoré in Paris, which is adjacent to Picciotto's high-end watch store Chronopassion.

]]> The Skull Bang comes in a classic 45 mm Fusion case made of black ceramic and satin finished. The bezel is in satin finished black ceramic with H-shaped countersunk black PVD titanium screws. The bezel lugs are made of black composite resin. The crown is is polished black ceramic with Hublot logo. The case back is in polished black ceramic with a sapphire crystal with an interior anti-reflective treatment; Black Skull Bang transfer, transparent skull outline on a back background. Oscillating weight openworked with black PVD coating and tungsten segment.

Black dial with galvanic sunburst pattern and black skull transfer. Hands faceted, diamond-polished, skeletonized and black galvanic treated. The movement is self-winding caliber HUB 1112 with 63 components, 21 jewels, a rate of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and a power reserve of 42-hours. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date. Leather strap with black PVD steel folding clasp. Water-resistance 50 meters.

Ref. 511.CM.1110VR.PIC12

Retail $12,280

Victorinox Dive Master 500 Collection

2012-05-08T06:58:29Z

At Baselworld 2012, Victorinox unveiled the redesigned Dive Master 500 collection.

The Dive Master 500 comes in either 38 mm or 43 mm diameter stainless steel cases - treated with either Black Ice of gold PVD. There are four 38 mm quartz models: black, burgundy, khaki green (with gold PVD coating) or white; two 43 mm quartz models in white or khaki green; and three 43 mm mechanical versions: grey, red or brown. The quartz models are powered by Swiss made Ronda 715.5 calibers and the self-winding models are powered by the ETA 2892-A2 caliber (automatic has clear case back).

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The newly redesigned dials are clean and uncluttered with applied luminescent indexes (on the automatic the hour markers are on a sloped ring). "The rubberized soft-touch background absorbs the light, creating striking contrasts with the raised and luminous baton and orb hour markers and iconic Victorinox shield." All Swiss Army timepieces have a center ring with 24-hour military time and these are no different. The automatic model has large easy to read sword hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating. The quartz model has a large arrow-shaped bright orange hour hand.

Functions include hours, minutes, center seconds, date (3 o'clock). Unidirectional 60-minute dive bezel with oversized Arabic numerals with special luminous 20-minute indicator. Shockproof and water-resistant to 500 meters (1,640 ft). Genuine rubber strap, sand blasted for softness (matches the dial color). Scratch-resistant triple (inside) coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

Retail $750 (quartz), $1,200 (automatic)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms - Unsigned

2012-05-07T08:50:47Z

LIP Blancpain watches were not the first dive watches on the market when they were introduced in 1953. They were, however, the most modern dive wristwatches at that time. The reliability and compactness of Fifty Fathoms models, which were originally designed for military use, became legendary. The reputation earned them the right to be used by armies such as French Navy, Czech, Polish, German federal, some Nordic countries, and also by the US Navy (SEAL, under water demolition team, Frogman).

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This is a Blancpain LIP Fifty Fathoms circa 1950s. The dial does not say "Blancpain" and/or "Fifty Fathoms" - instead it is signed just "LIP." This is different from almost every other Fifty Fathoms watch I've seen; they are typically signed with one name or both. Less markings on the dial not only results in a cleaner look - it also means is more rare than a typical circa 1950s Fifty Fathoms.

The Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) presents "The Mastery of Time" by Dominique Flechon

2012-05-06T15:49:08Z

On May 2, 2012 - at the Adour Alain Ducasse Restaurant inside the St. Regis Hotel, New York City - the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) hosted an exclusive cocktail reception to celebrate the North American launch of the The Mastery of Time written by Dominique Fléchon, a French author, historian and expert on fine watchmaking. The book was presented by author and historian Nick Foulkes.

]]> "The Foundation, which is aimed to spread knowledge on the luxury watchmaking industry, is comprised of the following brands: A. Lange & Sohne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Bovet, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Corum, Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Harry Winston, Hermes, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jean Richard, Mont Blanc, Panerai, Parmigiani, Perrelet, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Tag Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith.

In attendance was key U.S. members of press, partner brands of the Foundation as well as key industry retailers to celebrate the U.S. launch of the book. The book is the definitive body of knowledge and is a milestone in scholarship on one of the greatest adventures in the history of mankind: mastering the measurement of time."

Retail $95

Grand Seiko GMT Anniversary Edition

2012-05-04T21:03:54Z

The Grand Seiko GMT Anniversary Edition celebrates the tenth year of the GMT timepiece. The GMT uses the caliber 9S66A, which is the same movement originally used a decade ago. It features striped bridges, 35 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and a 72-hour power reserve. A circular blue titanium/tungsten blue rotor with cut-outs is visible through the clear caseback and is signed with the Grand Seiko logo. According to Seiko, the rotor has high elasticity which absorbs vibration and shock "ten times better" than brass. Functions include hours, minutes seconds date and second time zone (GMT). The bright blue dial has applied steel indexes, Dauphine-shaped steel hands and a gold-toned GMT hand.

]]> The Grand Seiko GMT comes in two variations: a steel bracelet and a strap version. The bracelet version is 39.2 mm in diameter, has a 24 hour bezel and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The strap version is 39.5 mm in diameter, has a fixed bezel with no markings (the 24-hour ring is on the inner dial) and is water-resistant to 30 meters. Both cases are in stainless steel.

Limited to 700 pieces on bracelet and 1,000 on strap.

Ref. SBGM031 (strap), SBGM029 (bracelet)

Retail $6,300 (strap), $6,700 (bracelet)

Maurice de Mauriac Zurich Chronograph Modern on Nato

2012-05-04T13:13:59Z

This is the Maurice de Mauriac Zurich Chronograph Modern in a 42 mm x 14 mm satin brushed finish titanium case. We previously reviewed a 45 mm diameter black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) case variant here. The majority of Maurice de Mauriac timepieces come with beautiful satin brushed cases which are - both harder to finish than a typical brushed finish and easier to scratch. Nevertheless, I highly recommend the satin finish as it looks great even with scratches.

]]> The movement is a self-winding top grade (same as chronometer without certificate) Valjoux 7750 mechanical chronograph with circular graining on the mainplate and Geneva stripes on the bridges, rotor with Geneva stripes - ceramic ball bearings for faster winding, 25-jewels, frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), 42-hour power reserve and blued screws. Black dial with white luminous Arabic numerals, but instead of 12, 1, 2...the hour markers show a triangle at 12 o'clock and then 05, 10 up to 55 at 11 o'clock - a configuration that puts the focus on chronograph seconds (which use the central hand). The uncharacteristic markers create a highly distinctive dial, and the signature look that this Zurich, Switzerland based brand is known for.

Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds date and chronograph (12-hour subdial, 30-minute subdial and 60-second central seconds). Flat sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment. Locking crown and pushers. Titanium sapphire crystal caseback. Water-resistance 100 meters. Nato strap (solid, striped, Hermes leather), also available on leather or textile strap.

Retail $3,700

Girard-Perregaux Partners with Kobe Bryant

2012-05-03T15:57:34Z

Girard-Perregaux partnered with Kobe Bryant to support the Kobe and Vanessa Bryant Family Foundation. On Sunday, April 22nd the foundation hosted a fundraising event in Los Angeles to support the organization, which is dedicated to improving the lives of youth and families in need.

"I am very happy Girard-Perregaux supports the work we are doing to address youth homelessness in Los Angeles", said Kobe Bryant. "Their contributions are helping us make a real impact on this critical issue."

]]> "We are very proud to work with Kobe and Vanessa on this event", said Sowind Group CEO (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard), Michele Sofisti. "We understand the importance of giving back to the community and admire their efforts in doing so".

Bryant is shown wearing the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Shadow fly-back chronograph which features a 43 mm diameter black ceramic case.

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin Witness One

2012-05-03T05:28:00Z

The Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin Witness One is an openworked tourbillon with bevelled and diamond-polished hands, finely sandblasted surfaces and black gold-treated bridges. A 60-second tourbillon displays the seconds at 6 o'clock. A three-arm "octopus spring" operates the pull-out piece. A click and lever govern the movement, which is visible through the caseback.

Powering the Witness One is hand-wound tourbillon caliber MRC800 with 19 jewels, a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz), lever escapement, skeletonised plate and bridges, 72-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes and seconds (tourbillon). The 45 mm round case has distinct oversized lugs and a large ball-like crown - available in steel, 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold. Cambered anti-reflective sapphire crystal and transparent caseback. Water-resistant to 30 meters. Polished and blued facetted hands. Black alligator with folding clasp matching the case.

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Natalie Portman wearing Richard Mille

2012-05-02T16:17:09Z

Last month, Richard Mille hosted a dinner in New York City to honor Natalie Portman, and welcome her as a friend of the brand. "For the occasion, Natalie chose to wear a conflict free diamond-set version of Richard Mille's original watch for women: the RM 007 Automatic. With both natural rubber and synthetic satin strap options according to Natalie's wishes, the RM 007 fits easily into Natalie's lifestyle, whether she is at home with her family, traveling, or attending a glamorous event." Mille and Portman have announced their plans to collaborate on a limited edition watch whose proceeds will support the charity - Free The Children.