PW, the Wristwatch Guide

The RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph Carbon

2012-05-24T14:59:10Z

For the first time in five years, Formula 1 will be in the United States. The United States Formula 1 Grand Prix will take place in Austin, Texas, November 16-18, 2012 at which Felipe Massa will race wearing a Richard Mille timepiece. As a tribute, Richard Mille has created a limited edition RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph Carbon.

The new timepiece features a flyback chronograph, skeletonized automatic winding movement with adjustable rotor geometry, 60-minute countdown timer, 12-hour totalizer, annual calendar and oversize date and month. "The black carbon tripartite case gives high contrast to the watch's bright yellow strap, numerals, hands, inner bezel, crown protector and lacquer rotor detail. A yellow helmet at the 7 o'clock position adds a subtle sporty touch."

]]> The new RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph Carbon will be made in a limited edition of 30 pieces, to be sold at the Richard Mille Boutique Beverly Hills, California.

Retail TBD

Limited Edition Speake-Martin Dong Son

2012-05-24T04:43:28Z

Peter Speak Marin's latest masterpiece, the Dong Son Drum, was commissioned exclusively for Vietnamese retailer MILUXE.

The design of this special series of timepieces was inspired by Dong Son bronze drums. According to Wikipedia, Dong Son bronze drums are fabricated in the Red River Delta of northern Vietnam. "The drums were produced from about 600 BC or earlier until the third century AD, and are one of the culture's finest examples of metalworking." Moreover, they are considered Vietnamese national treasures.

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Presented in a Piccadilly case, which was unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Dong Son features an exquisitely etched red gold dial in a pattern that pays homage to the prehistoric drums. Dong Son Drums are typically, "decorated with geometric patterns, scenes of daily life and war, animals and birds, and boats." Engraved in the left side of the red gold signature Speake-Marin drum-like case is "DONG SON - L.E. OF 18″.

The Dong Son is powered by the Eros 1 movement, a Technotime based self-winding caliber with a five day power reserve (the same movement inside the Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar). It features Speake-Marin's mystery rotor, visible through the sapphire case back. As you would expect from a Speake-Marin timepiece, the movement has been hand finished to the highest standards.

The specially commissioned piece will be available as an 18 piece limited edition, available only at Vietnamese retailer Boutique MILUXE.

Retail TBD

Images: Ming Thein

Ochocinco's Super Bad Ass watch

2012-05-23T20:16:26Z

Chad Ochocinco is seen (above) wearing a Diesel Super Bad Ass watch. Thank you to Ross J. for identifying the watch. There are a number of different colorways, but it looks like he might be wearing the version (pictured below).

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Ref. DZ7234

Retail $295

Rolex Daytona with Color Change Dial to be Auctioned at Antiquorum in June

2012-05-22T15:29:35Z

This is the Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Color Change Dial in White Gold - Ref. 116509 made in 2005. The dial is referred to as a "Color Change Dial" because the red hands on the white sub dials have caused them to take a reddish hue. This, of course, makes the timepiece more rare, as not all of the sub dials have turned red.

The 40 mm x 12.5 mm stainless steel case (No. D181534) is polished and brushed; it has a screw down case back, pushers and crown. Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. Satin silver dial with applied black radial Arabic numerals and luminous indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers, outer minute/seconds track. Luminous white gold baton hands.

]]> Inside is Rolex's self-winding manufacture Cal. 4130 that is rhodium-plated, with 44 jewels, a 72-hour power reserve, a straight line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed.

Lot 115 - Antiquorum New York, June, 2012

Estimate $15,000 - $20,000

The Maurice de Mauriac Modern

2012-05-21T15:51:24Z

Maurice de Mauriac has just introduced a 3-hand version of their popular Chronograph Modern. It has applied Arabic numeral hour markers that go from (05 to 60), just like on the chronograph - a distinctive dial design made popular by World War II pilot watches. Functions includes hours, minutes, central seconds and day/date at 3 o'clock. Available in 42 mm or 45 mm satin finished stainless steel cases, with flat or domed sapphire crystal (with double anti-glare treatment). Shown with textile strap. The movement is a self-winding chronometer grade ETA 2836-2 that is visible through a clear caseback.

]]> Retail $1,650 (flat sapphire), $1,900 (domed sapphire)

Rolex Submariner 5513 Tropical Dial No-Date

2012-05-21T01:16:00Z

This is a rare Rolex Submariner 5513 Tropical Dial No-Date that just sold at Antiquorum's May 13, 2012 auction in Geneva. The estimate was ($10,000 to $14,000) and not surprisingly, it sold for more than the high-end of the estimated value at $14,600. Tropical dial Rolexes - whether it is a GMT, Explorer or Submariner - command a significant premium over the same Rolex with a black dial.

]]> Tropical dials likely came from a manufacturing flaw which caused the dials to turn brown after production. Factors such as sunlight, temperature and other environmental factors may have effected the dial color (especially when you consider the variances between different dials). However, it is widely believed that what caused the original paint material to change brown, was improperly formulated paint. Needless to say, tropical dial Rolexes are rare, and highly sought after by collectors.

Preview: Edifice Tough Solar Chronograph

2012-05-18T21:21:16Z

This is the soon to be released Edifice EQW-T720DC features a solar powered quartz movement, black IP plated steel case, chronograph and 6-band atomic timekeeping. It will retail for $580 beginning July 2012. Full review coming soon.

Rewind: Harry Winston Opus 12, HYT H1 and Christophe Claret Xtrem-1

2012-05-18T15:23:37Z

Just in case you didn't get a chance to see our videos of the Harry Winston Opus 12 (above), Christophe Claret Xtrem-1 (after jump), HYT H1 Liquid Mechanical (after jump) or the Harry Winston Opus 12 (after jump) - here you go.

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Click here to see more watch videos.

1952 Ferrari 340 Mexico Vignale Berlinetta + Jaeger

2012-05-17T16:35:15Z

In 1925, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or more specifically Ed Jaeger London Ltd, specialized in automative dashboard instruments. In the mid 1920s and leading up until World War II, Jaeger "became the prevalent supplier to the most prestigious car companies, including virtually all racing cars as 95% of car races were won by cars equipped with Jaeger counters." Read more about the historical ties between automobiles and Jaeger-LeCoultre here.

The 1952 Ferrari Mexico Vignale Berlinetta (shown above) is a rare (1 of 4) race car that is equipped with Jaeger gauges. This car is reportedly worth over $4 million dollars, and even though it may be one of the least aesthetically pleasing of vintage Ferraris, at least it has some cool gauges.

Raymond Weil Family Creates New Brand - 88 Rue du Rhone

2012-05-17T05:02:21Z

Today, Elie and Pierre Bernheim, grandsons of Raymond Weil, have announced a new watch accessibly priced (sub-$1,000) Swiss watch brand - 88 Rue du Rhone. Named after the famous shopping street in Geneva (similar to Fifth Avenue). The first watch designs will be unveiled at JCK in Las Vegas next month.

"The launch collection is comprised of both female and gents pieces ranging in size from 29mm to 42mm with both quartz and automatic movements. The brand's name comes from the famous and prestigious street in the city of Geneva, which mirrors the name of the city's river. The signature logo engrained in the design of the collection bears the number 88, encompassing the ideology of good fortune and representing infinity."

]]> "The creation of 88 Rue Du Rhone has been a labor of love and my brother and I are thrilled to bring our knowledge and background of the watchmaking industry to a brand that we are so passionate about," says Elie Bernheim, Co-Founder. "Style and wearability has been our mantra throughout this brand inception and we are excited to introduce this to the consumer", says Pierre Bernheim Co-Founder.

The collection will range from $395 to $995 and will be in more than 200 doors beginning Fall 2012.

Introducing the Omega Speedmaster Racing with Co-Axial Caliber 3300 Inside

2012-05-17T04:11:50Z

Introduced at Baselworld 2012 back in March, the Omega Speedmaster Racing, is a more affordable version of the brand's Co-Axial Speedmaster.

Instead of utilizing Omega's new in-house manufacture Co-Axial caliber 9300 which we discussed here.The Speedmaster Racing is powered by exclusive self-winding chronograph movement - caliber 3300. Caliber 3300 is considerably more affordable than the 9300, yet it still features Omega's proprietary Co-Axial escapement with 3 levels, a Si14 silicon balance spring, NIVACHOC shock absorber and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism. It has 31 jewels, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and a power-reserve of 52-hours. Moreover, it is an officially certified chronometer.

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The stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter by 15.05 mm in height and has the signature Speedmaster shape. The case flank edges and lugs, the bezel edges, the pushers and crown and the bracelet center links are polished while the rest of the watch is brushed. Lugs and bracelet links and screwed-in. The steel bracelet is 19 mm between the lugs and tapers to 18 mm at the clasp (a rubber strap is optional for $100 less). Stainless steel bezel with matte black aluminium tachymeter ring with scaling that matches the dial color.

Dial comes in a variety of colors (see below). Subdials feature triangular textured "Clou de Paris." Blackened, rhodium-plated hands and luminous hour and minute hands; luminous hour indexes. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and the date (displayed at 6 o'clock and can be corrected using the included tool to adjust the button at 10 o'clock). Central chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute recorder at 3 o'clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock.

The sapphire crystal has a double anti-reflective treatment and is slightly domed, but does not protrude out like the Speedmaster we featured here. Screw-in caseback stamped and polished with seahorse medallion. Water-resistance 100 meters.

The Omega Speedmaster does not technically feature an in-house manufacture movement, it does, however, have the brand's famous Co-Axial chronometer movement, made in-house, exclusively for Omega - all for under five grand. That is more than three grand below the price of the 9300 based Speedmaster.

Retail $4,800

Update: Dial variations and reference numbers:

1- black dial, white subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.01.002
2- grey dial, black subdials, yellow accents - Ref. 326.32.40.50.06.001
3- white dial, black subdials, yellow accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.04.001
4- red dial, black subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.32.40.50.11.001
5- blue dial, black subdials, white accents - Ref. 326.30.40.50.03.001

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph

2012-05-16T15:39:47Z

The Deep Sea Chronograph function indicator was inspired by a 1953 Jaeger Chronolight dashboard instrument (shown above).

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just revealed a new diving chronograph, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph. Unlike most chronographs, this one can be operated underwater. Breitling makes a magnetic quartz based chronograph that operates underwater, but as far as mechanical chronographs go, they typically do not work underwater.

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The Deep Sea Chronograph is powered by a self-winding caliber JL 758 with 47 jewels, 340 parts, a frequency of 28,800 vph and a 65-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (hour and minute counters, central sweep seconds hand) and chronograph operating indicator. The case is stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. Uni-directional rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal and matte dial with white Superluminova hour markers. Water-resistance 100 meters. Black leather with steel pin buckle.

"The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph has an operating indicator for the chronograph which contributes to divers' safety by enabling them to check at a glance that the chronograph is indeed measuring a certain time interval, that it is ready to be activated, or that the measured time is displayed on the various counters. This specific feature is inspired by a historical Jaeger- LeCoultre model: the Chronoflight.

Today's Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph is inspired by a technical device featured in the Chronoflight in order to make it available to divers. Appearing on the watch dial above the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, a round aperture reveals the chronograph operating indicator. The latter is composed of two discs - one white and the other red - which provide the required information regarding the state of the chronograph, without any risk of error. When the display is white, the chronograph is ready to be activated in order to begin measuring a time interval. Once the chronograph has started, the indicator window simultaneously shows both colours - red and white - in order to signal that a measurement is in progress. Finally, when the chronograph has stopped, the red disc appears on its own in the window to indicate that the measurement performed may be consulted, before resetting the chronograph."

The Deep Sea Chronograph meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch. (Divers' watches must be water resistant to 330 ft minimum (100 meters). They must also feature a time controller and comply with standards provided by NIHS 92-11 (ISO 6425): luminosity, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, band solidity.)

Ref. Q2068570

Retail $10,800

Edifice Casio Atomic Worldtimer Chronograph

2012-05-15T19:26:05Z

Read more about Edifice's flagship timepiece here.

The Victorinox Swiss Army Original Chronograph

2012-05-13T21:29:12Z

After the successful launch of the Victorinox Swiss Army Original collection last year at Baselworld, Victorinox decided to make a chronograph version.

The chronograph version has the same - 40 mm nylon fiber middle case, stainless steel back and center, anodized aluminum bezel and laser cut out markers - with the addition of a chronograph. The movement is a Swiss quartz (ETA G10.211); functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph (1/10th of a second precision) and date (at 4 o'clock). Shock resistant mineral crystal, screw-in caseback and locking crown. Luminous hour and minute hands. Water-resistance 100 meters. Nato strap made of 80% Japanese cotton and 20% polyester matching the dial. Available in green/black (shown), black, grey or gold.

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Ref. 241531

Retail $450

Raymond Weil Nabucco Cuore Vivo

2012-05-11T22:42:20Z

Raymond Weil recently announced the new Nabucco Cuore Vivo chronograph with a dial cut-out that allows a view of the movement's going train, balance and escapement.

The round case is 46 mm x 15.85 mm and is made of matte titanium and polished steel, with a circular matte titanium and polished steel tachymeter bezel. Steel screwed-down crown fluted with RW logo and steel screwed down fluted pushers. The dial is galvanic black, with a central checkered motif pattern in the center. Applied luminescent indexes and 12 o'clock Arabic numeral with polished edges. Titanium counters at 3 o'clock (30-minute counter), at 6 o'clock (12-hour counter) and at 9 o'clock (small seconds). Visible balance and escapement wheels at 10 o'clock. Steel hour and minute hands with luminescent material. Blued steel bâton second hand with glossy finish and blued counter hands.

]]> Inside, is self-winding caliber RW5400, a chronograph movement with a visible balance and escapement. It has 29 jewels, a rate of 28,8000 vph (4Hz) and a power reserve of 46-hours. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds (at 9 o'clock) and chronograph.

Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. Screwed down case back with sapphire glass. Black rubber alligator style, with black stitching, equipped with a RW folding clasp in titanium, opening with a double push-piece security. Limited to 400 pieces. Water-resistant 200 meters.

Ref. 7830 TIR 00207

Retail TBD