Cartier

The Cartier Masse Secrète Panther Decor Ladies' watch was unveiled during the Salon International de la Haute Horology show last month in Geneva and although it may look like a typical haute joaillerie piece -- it is not.

Yes, it has the prerequisite diamonds, in their perfect pavé settings -- but there is a secrète. The Panther motif you see on the dial - in white gold, paved with diamonds and black lacquer spots - is not just for looks. The Panther is also the oscillating weight which winds the movement's mainspring, which powers the hour and minute hands. The mechanical movement is visible through the sapphire case back, and because of this unique configuration, has the aesthetics of a manual movement, while maintaining the convenience of an automatic. Furthermore, Cartier watchmakers took special care to make sure the Panther does not spin uncontrollably, as it is on the dial side and that would deter from reading the time.

READ MORE

Cartier introduced a large selection of timepieces at the Salon Internation de la Haute Horology (SIHH) last month. Apart from the amazing minute repeater tourbillon, the beautiful high jewelry pieces and the skeletonized Santos - the model that really stands out to me is the Cartier Tank Anglaise.

The Cartier Tank Anglaise is a generously sized tank-shaped (rectangular) wristwatch. It is part of the newly revived vintage inspired Cartier Tank series, which also includes the Tank Américaine and Tank Française.

READ MORE

Cartier will be introducing the Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon at SIHH 2012 in January.

The 18k polished white gold case measures 46.4 mm in diameter. The manual-winding movement, Caliber 9458 MC, features a flying tourbillon, Geneva Seal, 19 jewels, 167 parts, runs at 21,600 (3 Hz) and has a power reserve of 50-hours. Functions include hours, minutes and tourbillon seconds.

Sapphire crystal on the front and case back. The crown is a beaded and set with a cabochon sapphire. Water-resistance is 30 meters. Folding clasp in 18k white gold.

Limited series of 100 individually numbered timepieces.

This is a short video that demonstrates Cartier's new Astroregulator, which was introduced at SIHH 2011 in January. The Astroregulator features a complication, that like a tourbillon, offsets the negative effects of gravity on the movement. Cartier spent five years developing Calibre 9800 MC Astroregulator, a mechanical movement that was designed, developed, produced and assembled in-house.

READ MORE

For SIHH 2011, Cartier introduced a new skeletonized version of their iconic Santos timepiece - the Santos Dumont Black Titanium. Measuring 39 mm x 47 mm, the rectangular case is made of titanium and is coated in Cartier's version of Diamond Like Carbon (ADLC). The crown is made of ADLC coated titanium as well, and features a faceted black synthetic gemstone. The dial displays hours and minutes, and is skeletonized in the form of Roman numerals. The movement is a manually wound Cartier calibre 9612 MC, and has a 72-hour power reserve. A black alligator strap with an ADLC-coated white gold deployant buckle is included.

READ MORE

The Cartier ID One is a highly advanced concept timepiece developed entirely in the Cartier workshops. It requires no adjustment, is lubrication free and is insensitive to temperature, shocks and magnetic fields.

For the "ID One" concept, Cartier used a self-winding movement, featuring a blade style trimmed rotor (which offers an amazing, less obstructed view of the movement, than a traditional rotor design). The anchor and anchor wheel are in carbon and glass, without pallets. The movement has a double barrel, with a power reserve of 52 hours. The brass Ebauches are coated is a high-tech ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon). The oscillating weight is made of tungsten carbide, coated in ADLC. Even the case is unique, it is made of a niobium-titanium.

The most important element, though, chronometrically speaking, is the Spiral Zerodur® hairspring, it requires zero regulation.

Cartier says that this is the first ever wristwatch that is free from regulation - no adjusting the balance wheel screw, no adjusting the balance spring or modulating its active length, and no adjusting the position of the paddles on the anchor.

Overall, this is an extremely advanced design, and proof of what Cartier is capable of. A watch like this, represents Cartier's dedication and seriousness towards watchmaking, and will surely have a positive halo effect on the brand.

READ MORE

The Cartier Santos 100 chronograph is treated with a special amorphous DLC coating. Cartier says this specific treatment process is used on military equipment and that they have the exclusive rights to use this treatment for watches. What makes it different than other DLC treatments?

READ MORE