Dive Time

At Baselworld, Vulcain introduced a replica of the 1970 Vulcain Nautical model. The Vulcain Nautical Seventies watch is water-resistant to 300 meters, can indicate successive decompression stops and has an alarm that is audible underwater. While this Vulcain diver is aesthetically based on the 1970s watch, that timepiece was based on a 1961 Vulcain diver, which was the first wristwatch capable of descending to 300 meters and audibly warning its wearer when to surface, all while indicating the various decompression stops.

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During a recent visit to Breitling’s flagship boutique in Manhattan, I had a chance to try on a very cool dive watch, the Breitling Superocean Heritage. It is available in two sizes, 46 and 42 mm, I prefer a more conservatively sized dial, so I naturally choose the 42 mm. Inspired by the design of a 1950s model, the Superocean Heritage is a throwback dive watch, as opposed to their more modern Superocean.

The Heritage comes in a 42 mm by 12.95 mm fully polished stainless steel case, which looks goods on the wrist, although I think it might look even nicer in a 40 mm version.

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Last week at SIHH 2013, Audemars Piguet introduced a new Royal Oak Diver in black ceramic.

Audemar Piguet’s new diver will sit alongside the stainless steel and forged carbon divers in the model lineup, however, ceramic may eventually supersede forged carbon. AP was the first watchmaker to utilize forged carbon, and while it was originally considered to be an exclusive high-tech material perfect for watch cases and bezels, they have since decided to put more focus on ceramic, as it is much stronger.

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In December, at the international launch for the all new Girard-Perregaux Hawk sport watch collection (which consists of the redesigned Sea Hawk, pictured, the all new Chrono Hawk and the Sea Hawk FOReverglades limited edition), we photographed and discussed the new collection with global CEO, Michele Sofisti.

PW: Why is a sport watch important to a high-end watch brand such as Girard-Perregaux, especially considering they are rarely used in actual sporting events nowadays?

MS: A Sea Hawk can go down 1,000 meters, I doubt that somebody will take it even 10 meters maybe, or 50 meters. It can do it. But it is more a kind of a lifestyle, an expression of your personality.

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La Chaux-de-Fonds based watchmaker Graham recently introduced a very interesting and unique diver’s wristwatch — the Chronofighter Prodive Professional.

The Prodive is capable of withstanding water pressure down to an impressive 600 meters — but more impressive — is that the chronograph operates at those depths. Yes, the Breitling Superocean M2000 Chronograph which we recently covered, can be started/stopped/reset at 600 meters, well beyond that actually, but it is a quartz timepiece. Even Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a mechanical diver’s watch this year with chronograph functionality as deep as 100 meters. But the Graham Prodive, is a true professional mechanical dive watch.

What special design features make it unique?

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Breitling first introduced their proprietary magnetic pushpiece equipped diver — a chronograph with pushers which are magnetically (not mechanically connected to the movement) allowing the wearer to activate the chronograph underwater — in 2010. At the time, the Breitling Avenger Seawolf Blacksteel chronograph could reach depths of 1,000 meters, no small feat. Two years later, using the same proprietary, Breitling has succeeded in creating a chronograph capable of being started, stopped and reset — at twice the previous depth. The Breitling SuperOcean M2000 is the first chronograph water-resistant and operational at a depth of 2,000 meters.

To reach such depths Breitling of course had to reinforce the steel case (which is 19.10 mm thick with a steel screw-in case back), the sapphire crystal (which is 4 mm thick) and the screw-locked crown (which has two gaskets, instead of one).

The 46 mm case features a unidirectional, ratcheted bezel with 60-minute markings. The sapphire crystal is cambered and glareproofed on both sides. Inside is Breitling’s caliber 73 SuperQuartz™, thermocompensated quartz movement, with a fast-action timezone change. Chronograph functions indications include 1/10th second, 60 minutes, 12 hours — with split times by fly-back hand.

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The Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 is one of the most attractive and highly collectible Submariners. Its lack of crown guards and thin case distinguish it among Submariners. And although the Rolex (shown above) is unmistakably a James Bond Sub, it is not a typical 5508. A few minor variations differentiate this one from your average 5508.

Rolex 5508 dials are typically printed with the "100m = 330 ft" depth marking in silver and the "Submariner" marking in gold. This particular example has both the depth and Submariner markings in silver, hence the name "Gilt Ghost Dial," aka double silver gilt dial. Also, at 6 o'clock, instead of standard luminous hour marker, this one has an exclamation point. An auction house or Rolex expert can give you a good ballpark of what to pay for one of these, good luck trying to find a "James Bond Ref. 5508 Gilt Ghost Dial Exclamation Point Submariner" though.