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July 19, 2010

Most Wanted: 2007 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

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The Rolex Submariner is one of the most recognized luxury watches in the world. It originally went into production in 1953, and was first presented to the public in 1954 at the Basel watch fair.

For this photo review, I got my hands on one of my friends recent acquisitions, a pre-owned 2007 Black Bezel Submariner. This watch is probably the most copied timepiece on the market, with many replica manufacturers copying the design. Even with all the knockoffs, this classic timepiece still commands top dollar on the pre-owned market. Due in part because of its fame, high demand, and of course, the name on the dial. Another less known factor, is that Rolex generally raises its price every year. You can generally find a pre-owned stainless steel Submariner in good condition for $3,500-$4,500 with the date (a little less without a date function). A new Submariner, with a ceramic bezel, starts at about $7,000. So as you can see, just going a few years back, will literally save you thousands. And in the case of the watch that I have photographed here, the buyer actually got it less than the selling price range above. (I'll tell you the actual price he paid below.)

Submariners, and really any Rolex, are a favorite of celebrities. If that is good or bad thing, I do not know, but you can see some celebrities wearing Rolex watches here. And if you search the web, you can find more celebrities wearing a Rolex, than probably any other brand.

Quality is another factor in the legendary status of the Submariner.

First, Rolex uses 904L stainless steel instead of 316L steel. Most watch brands uses 316L surgical grade stainless steel when producing a steel case or watch. The use of 904L actually adds a significant amount to the price, and most companies cannot justify the additional cost for higher grade of steel. Rolex, however, is not most watch companies, and accordingly they use the best steel available, even if the more affordable 316L stainless steel is good enough. The main advantage of 904L over 316L is its resistance to corrosion. Rolex uses 904L steel primarily for marketing purposes, to differentiate their product, but it does technically offer additional corrosion resistance. 904L is has copper added, which greatly improves resistance to strong reducing acids, as well as chloride. 904L is non-magnetic in all conditions and has excellent weldability and formability. The austenitic structure also gives this grade excellent toughness, even down to cryogenic temperatures. 904L does have a very substantial amount of nickel and molybdenum, and this is what really adds to its cost.

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July 14, 2010

Most Wanted: Magrette Moana Pacific Diver

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(This article was previously published but has now been upgraded with a more advanced photo gallery technology that works with any web browser as well as most mobile devices, such as the iPad.)

New Zealand based boutique watchmaker, Magrette, recently released a new limited edition dive watch, the Moana Pacific Diver. It is capable of an impressive water resistance of 500 meters (1,650 feet) deep. For keeping track of dive time, it features a 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel. The case is stainless steel and comes in a comfortable 44 mm diameter, and features a polished top, bezel and crown, and brushed sides. It is powered by a reliable Miyota 8215 automatic mechanical movement, with 21 jewels.

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July 2, 2010

"Most Wanted" Roger Dubuis Easy Diver

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(Once your web browser has fully loaded the page, click on the image above for a "lightbox" photo gallery.)

Roger Dubuis is well known for their complicated timepieces, specifically their tourbillons. They also make minute repeaters, chronographs and divers. Personally, I have always liked their flagship Skeletonized Excalibur Tourbillon (which will be featured on Monday), but at $250,000, it is unaccessible to most consumers. Luckily, they do actually make some more affordable timepieces too. In fact, as of 2010, they have lowered their entry level price point for men's watches. The men's Easy Diver collection now starts at just under $13K. This still may sound high, even though they took about $5,000 off the previous model's price. But it is all relative, and for an exclusive, limited production, in-house made movement, this price is about right.

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June 21, 2010

Guillaume Nery base jumping at Dean's Blue Hole

Guillaume Nery, a Ball watch company ambassador, and former free dive world record holder, made this video diving into "Dean's Blue Hole". Apparently, it is impossible for a human to free dive (dive with no oxygen tank), to the bottom of Deans Blue Hole. However, he made this really cool video to show what it might look like if a human really could reach the bottom. I actually met Guillaume, at the Ball booth in during Baselworld 2008, and he is as nice as he is talented. Guillame Nery is wearing a Ball diver watch during the filming of this video (which took multiple shoots to get this one scene). It has been so popular, and viral online, that it has received over 4 million page views.

June 7, 2010

Reactor Poseidon LE Never Dark Dive watch

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This summer Reactor will be introducing a new line of Never Dark dive watches, the Poseidon series. There are three versions within the series, two quartz and a self-charging (kinetic) auto-quartz limited edition model (pictured). I have never had a chance to see these watches in-person, however, I have heard many good things, especially that they are very rugged and well built. Here is a link to there page which explains their different technologies.

The limited edition Poseidon will feature an exhibition caseback which shows off the black plated rotor, that charges the quartz movement. I've never heard of a quartz watch with an exhibition caseback, but it definitely sounds cool.

The watch features the Never Dark® dial illumination system that combines bright Superluminova with long-lasting tritium for perfect visibility in under any lighting condition. The case is stainless steel and is depth tested to an impressive 1,000 meters (3,300 ft). It meets or exceeds the ISO 6425 Professional Dive Watch standard. Case diameter is 48 mm by 17 mm thick. It features external and internal rotating bezels, for calculating dive time. The limited-edition version comes with a 2-tone stainless bracelet and a rubber strap, plus tools and extra screw bars to swap bands.

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May 30, 2010

Victorinox Dive Master 500 Collection

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Victorinox has recently introduced two new timepieces within their Dive Master collection. The Dive Master 500 Chrono and the Dive Master 500 Mecha. The chronograph is powered by a swiss quartz movement and the mechanical is powered by a swiss made ETA 2892-A2. The Dive Master Mecha was introduced last year, but they have added this deep blue version, which consists of a blue dial and strap. Both watches feature the black ice PVD finish that was introduced on last year's model (black ice PVD looks a shade lighter than most PVD). The quartz chronograph is all new, although the case is 43 mm and essentially the same as the three hand mechanical model. The two big differences in the cases, are two places for pushers on the chronograph and a clear caseback, which allows a nice view of the swiss automatic movement, on the mechanical model. Currently the chronograph is only available in orange, although more colors will most likely be available over the next 12-months. The mechanical model is available in numerous, previously introduced, colors (orange, red, black).

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May 13, 2010

U-Boat U-42 53mm Submersible Instrument

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U-Boat watches are an ode to professional instruments and instrumentation. In a meeting with Italo Fontana, founder and designer of U-Boat watches, I learned that much of his inspiration comes from extraordinary machines like racing cars, or jet fighters and the instrumentation found inside them. The successful Flightdeck collection and the lesser known Thousands of Feet series are examples of U-Boat watches that spawned from this passion. A second important source of inspiration for Italo's watchmaking career is a concept that his grandfather had proposed to the Italian Navy in 1942. The numerals and left handed configuration of U-Boat watches spurred from these drawings and were originally revived in 2009 by the giant, 65mm, U-1942. The limited edition U-42, unveiled in March 2010, is based on the U-1942 but scaled down to a 53mm size and to a more accessible price range.

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May 5, 2010

Porsche Design P'6780 Diver Baselworld 2010

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Porsche Design's big introduction this year at Baseworld was the P'6780 Diver. It was designed in cooperation with Eterna, and is based on the Eterna Kon Tiki Diver watch. The case is 46.8mm in diameter and has a water-resistance rating of 1,000 meters. A mechanical self-winding ETA 2892-A2 movement powers this timepiece. The watch housing is made of stainless steel and lifts out of a titanium bridge, on a hinge. This system is designed to prevent accidental crown adjustment or damage. This is essentially a Porsche Design's version of the Kon Tiki diver.

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