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Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered Onyx Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld, Jaquet Droz debuted a timepiece, which we previewed in February, with a unique dial made from black onyx. Onyx is a mineral crystal (gemstone), formed of bands of chalcedony in alternating colors, according to Wikipedia. “It is cryptocrystalline, consisting of fine intergrowths of the silica minerals quartz and moganite. Its bands are parallel to one another, as opposed to the more chaotic banding that often occurs in agates.” For each Grande Seconde Off-Centered Onyx dial, a piece of onyx is cut and then polished to a glossy finish, resulting in a look that is quite striking, especially when contrasted by the 18K white gold monoblock chapter rings. The hours and minutes are indicated by polished white gold Lance-shaped hands in the upper dial. And a long baton-shaped hand with an open-tipped counterweight indicates small seconds in the lower

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Jason Pitsch

Orion 1989 Special Edition Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Launched a few years ago, the Orion 1989 Special edition timepiece, from German watchmaker NOMOS Glashutte, pays homage to fall of the Berlin Wall, which happened in 1989. The timepiece comes in a three-part stainless steel case measuring 38 mm x 8.86 mm, with slightly curved sapphire crystals protecting the dial and the caseback. These dimensions result in a perfectly proportioned dress watch that wears very comfortably. An anthracite dial with stamped gold indexes, and silver printed minutes and seconds graduations make for an attractive aesthetic. Baton-shaped steel hands are gold-plated, further adding to the elegance of the look. Inside, is NOMOS’s Alpha caliber, which is their first manufacture movement, and most popular. Understandably so as it is a mere 2.6 mm in thickness, yet has all the decorations we have come to expect from this beloved German watchmaker: rhodium

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Jason Pitsch

Tudor Black Bay Dark Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

The Heritage Black Bay, first launched in 2012, is Tudor’s best-selling collection. Based on the first 1954 Tudor Submariner (Ref. 7922), along with design elements borrowed from multiple subsequent Submariners, the Black Bay is not a re-edition, instead, it is a contemporary re-interpretation of the original. Building on the success of the core model, last month a day before Press Day at Baselworld, in addition to debuting the Black Bay Bronze, Tudor launched the Black Bay Dark, which like the Bronze, is somewhat of a departure from the rest of the Black Bay collection. Scenes from the launch which took place as just ahead of Baselworld 2016 Unlike the larger 43 mm diameter bronze-alloy case from the Bronze model, the Black Bay Dark is in stainless steel and has the same dimensions (41 mm x 12.75 mm) as the Black

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Photo Report: Panerai SIHH timepieces at Madison Ave boutique

Last week, during Madison Avenue Watch Week, we stopped in to preview all of the new Panerai SIHH 2016 timepieces at the brand’s flagship New York City boutique, located at 703 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10065. The photos below show off our favorite new pieces as seen during the visit. Store front at 703 Madison Avenue Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio special edition - click for previous coverage Panerai Luminor 8 Days Set - click for previous coverage Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 42 mm - click for previous coverage Luminor 1950 3 Days Acciaio - 47 mm Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio - 45 mm Most of the SIHH 2016 Panerai introductions Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio - 45 mm Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT

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Jason Pitsch

Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Since 1988, Chopard has been the official timekeeper of the famous Mille Miglia endurance race – which features more than 400 classic cars competing on a thousand-mile course between Brescia and Rome. Referred to by Enzo Ferrari as the “world’s most beautiful race”, it inspired an eponymous watch collection created by Chopard, which as of last year are now equipped with manufacture movements. Following the launch of the Mille Miglia GTS collection in 2015, at Baselworld 2016 Chopard debuted the Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black. Presented in a 43 mm x 11.43 mm matte black DLC-treated steel case, the watch features bold red “Rossa Corsa” accents and oversized numerals recalling 1950’s dashboards. Additionally, it has engine-style finishing and a strap with a vintage 1960s Dunlop racing tire tread motif. The dial is matte black, with a red lacquered sweep

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Jason Pitsch

Breguet Type XXI 3817 Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Abraham-Louis Breguet is well known for inventing the tourbillon, amongst many other watchmaking technologies. Less known, however, is that his great-great grandson, Louis Charles Breguet, carried on his family’s history of innovation, in not just watchmaking, but also in aviation. Louis Charles Breguet developed the gyroplane, the forerunner of the helicopter. He also developed the Breguet XIV plane in 1916. And according to Breguet, “between 1917 and 1926, around 8,000 of these legendary aircraft were acquired by an estimated fifteen countries. Other models followed, such as the Breguet 19, and later the Breguet Deux-Ponts (Double Deck).” In conjunction with the activities of Louis Charles Breguet and his aeronautical firm, the Breguet watch company developed chronograph mechanisms fitted on cockpit instrument panels and later began producing pilot’s watches. In 1935, Breguet developed their first wrist chronographs. By 1954, Breguet launched the

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Jason Pitsch

Carl F. Bucher Manero Peripheral Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld last month, Swiss watchmaker, Carl F. Bucherer, which is owned by the Lucerne-based retailer, Bucherer, launched a timepiece that effectively changes the direction of the company in a few ways. First, the dial now reads “Lucerne 1888,” which I am told is part of a new re-branding strategy that focuses on the roots of the company. Second, the manufacture has added a few conservatively sized, retro-style watch collections to their line-up. With plans for more in the future, presumably. Basically, with the Manero Peripheral, they have created a new version of their awesome in-house made peripheral rotor movement and built it into a simple, classic timepiece. Clearly a departure from recent designs, drawing on their rich origins. The new caliber CFB A2050, features a patented peripheral rotor, that as the name suggests, sits on the peripheral area of

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Jason Pitsch

The new Rolex Explorer Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

For years, Rolex has been known to primarily introduce updates to existing watch models at Baselworld, as opposed to focusing on brand new models. And this year was no different. Today, we’ll cover the newly updated Explorer (Ref. 214270), which it is worth noting, carries the same reference number as the model it replaces. Ever since 2010, the Rolex Explorer has featured a larger 39 mm case (up from 36 mm prior to that). That modern design stays mostly the same. In fact, the case is identical, the caliber 3132 movement is identical, and at first glance, even the dial appears to be the same. However, it is the dial, which differentiates the new Explorer from the previous version. First, the hour and minute hands are broader and have been lengthened for better legibility. The material, white gold, stays the

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Jason Pitsch

Hands-On with the Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Square Tourbillon

Jason Pitsch

The newly introduced Galet Classic Square Tourbillon Double Balance Spring is basically a square version of the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Balance Spring that we showed you last year. Inside, the hand wound movement (caliber LF 619.01), powering the new timepiece, is identical. It beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), has 188 parts, 23 jewels, and an 80-hour power reserve. The bridges are decorated with Geneva stripes, the mainplate has a circular graining decoration, the angles are chamfered and polished by hands, and the screw heads are also polished. The differences are in the 18K white gold case, which at 41.5 mm x 12.70 mm, is slightly larger, and square. And the dial, which, has a printed railway minutes track, circular satin-brushed chapter ring, applied drop-shaped hour markers, assegai-shaped ruthenium-treated white gold hands, on top of a silver-toned opaline finish dial.

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2016: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230

Jason Pitsch

This year at Baselworld, Patek Philippe debuted a new World Time watch (Ref. 5230), available in white or rose gold, replacing all previous models. The new timepiece has a number of subtle changes, including a new time zone dial, a slightly redesigned case, and new hands. Dubai now supplants Riyadh and Brisbane replaces Noumea. Another change involves Moscow, which switched from UTC+4 to UTC+3. In addition, Patek Philippe has updated the case with winglet-style lugs and the narrower polished bezel. A new pierced gold hour hand replaces the former ring-shaped hand and shows the contours of the “Southern Cross” constellation. And the minute hand is now lozenge-shaped. Notably, the dial features a new dark grey hand-guilloched center, featuring a basket weave pattern. Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230 is powered by automatic caliber 240 HU, which features an off-center 22K

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