Zenith

September 28, 2011

Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Chronograph

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In collaboration with Musée International d'Horlogerie (MIH), Zenith introduces the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Chronograph. The Captain Winsor features Zenith's famous El Primero chronograph caliber, with the addition of new complication, the annual calendar. An annual calendar displays the date, day of the week and month with only one adjustment required per year.

The exclusive 29-jewel El Primero 4054 automatic movement runs at 5 Hz (36,000 vph) and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, annual calendar (date, day month).

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November 21, 2010

New Classic Zenith Tourbillons

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Under the careful direction of their new CEO, Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Zenith has focused heavily on the El Primero movement, and traditional aesthetics. We will not see any of the contemporary designs that have plagued the brand in recent years. We will, however, see Zenith flexing their watchmaking skills and know how, and this new collection, is a perfect example of this.

Last year, at Baselworld, you could already see a new sense of excitement around the brand, and their newly developed timepieces. Especially, the hot new EL Primero Striking seconds chronograph, which was introduced prior to the start of the show. This year, the brand will introduce even more new models, and the excitement around the brand should grow even more, and regain much of the traction they lost under Nataf.

Zenith has already introduced the new Christophe Columb, which will be one of their halo pieces over the next few years. But instead of stopping there, they have decided to preview another upcoming model, the new Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Chronograph. It is the only tourbillon in the world to operate at the high frequency of 36,000 VPH. Constructing a tourbillon is difficult by itself, but doing so with such a high frequency movement was not as easy task. And do not forget that it also has a calendar and chronograph function. All of these elements would cause most watches to quickly lose their power reserve, but Zenith has found away to do all of this, with a full 50-hour power reserve.

Aesthetically, the classic look of the Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Chronograph is subtle and attractive, especially in comparison to some of the audacious designs the came about under the outgoing CEO Theirry Nataf. Technically, it is appealing as well, as it is the first tourbillon equipped movement to operate at the high frequency of the El Primero, 36,000 vph. This combination of classic elegance and technical expertise is more in line with what Zenith buyers are looking for, and proof that Dufour is successfully implementing the brand's new product strategy.

Press Release PDF

Retail TBD

Source: Zenith

November 5, 2010

New Zenith ambassador Alain Roberts, the "French Spiderman"

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Zenith has signed Alain Robert, aka "the French spiderman," as their newest brand ambassador. His speciality is climbing mountains and buildings, with no rope. He has climbed the Empire State Building and the Taipei 101 building (the 2nd largest building in the world), and many others, all without any rope or support. Many times he does these climbs without any authorization, and therefore, does so illegally. His next big stunt, and first as a Zenith brand ambassador, will be to climb the tallest Ferris wheel in the world. During a festival in Singapore, from November 5th to 7th, Alain will attempt to climb the gigantic Ferris wheel, with no rope or support. He will, however, have a Zenith El Primero Striking 10TH strapped to his wrist. He does have permission for this stunt, however, that does not change the fact that one small misstep could prove to be fatal.

Zenith Press Release

Le Locle, November 2010. As part of the International Extreme Sports Festival held from November 5th to 7th, Alain Robert will attack the huge panoramic Ferris wheel in Singapore, the tallest in the world, measuring 165 meters (541 ft). Using neither ropes nor karabiners, Alain has already scaled over 80 skyscrapers on all continents. While this spider man has often had to face local authorities after his illegal feats, this time he has all the necessary authorizations. Before beginning his climbs of urban buildings, Alain Robert was considered one of the best cliff climbers. He has even been awarded the "Prix pour la Performance d'un Athlète", presented by the former president of the International Olympic Committee, Juan Antonio Samaranche. For his next feat in Singapore, the new ZENITH ambassador will be wearing an El Primero Striking 10TH on his wrist; this exceptional chronograph is the only one that precisely measures and displays tenths of a second.

Parents, don't leave Your windows open!

As a child, Alain Robert dreamed of following his heroes: famous climbers, free men whose tales had thrilled him in his childhood. However, his family did not appreciate their son's desires. So, Alain learned the rudiments of climbing in secret. One day, when he was twelve years old, Alain forget his house keys, and climbed in through the family's apartment window. It is important to note, however, that the family lived on the eighth floor at the time! His parents gave in, and Alain became a high-level climber. What motivates him is "calculated risk, controlling fear, mastering fright". Then Alain Robert decided to climb solo, wi- thout insurance, without ropes and with no margin for error. He began seeking out extreme cliff ascents.

The power of perseverance

In 1994, Alain Robert scaled his first tower in Chicago. This was the begin- ning of his career as an urban climber. He realized that he loved confronting seemingly impossible challenges and that this could finally be a way for him to live out his passion. He climbed tower after tower across the world. Then, on one occasion when he was actually using ropes, an accident occurred: he fell 49 feet head first. The cause was a poorly tied knot that came loose as he ab- seiled down. He spent five days in a coma, having suffered multiple fractures to his skull, nose, wrists, elbow, pelvis and heels. His doctors were pessimis- tic: "This young man will never climb again." However, thanks to exceptional mental strength, a year after his accident, Alain Robert was climbing once more, reaching the highest level in his discipline. An ironic twist to the tale: since his fall, Alain suffers from vertigo caused by damage to his inner ear.

Climbing for humanitarian causes

While Alain Robert is well known for his illegal climbs, most people do not realize that many of his climbs are for humanitarian causes. His illegal ascent of the Kuala Lumpur tower had such huge media coverage that the Sabah Foundation in Borneo asked him to climb its skyscrapers. Authorities gave their approval and the event took on unimaginable scope: 15,000 people at- tended the spectacle and the event raised €150,000. In 15 years, Alain Robert has climbed over 100 skyscrapers and well known monuments worldwide. One of his greatest successes was climbing the National Bank of Abu Dhabi, with over 100,000 spectators watching from the bottom of the tower! For Alain, the city has become a huge mountain, with the one difference...that there will always be new towers to climb.

The French spiderman

"The media have nicknamed me "Spiderman". But when I climb skyscrapers, there are neither special effects nor safety net!"

Zenith and the pioneering spirit

Zenith has often broken ground in unexplored territories: the steepest slopes that other brands consider unassailable.This ability to come up with new ideas, exploiting new technical developments - then launch them before anyone else - is fascinating.

Zenith watches have participated in some of the grandest human adven- tures: the explorer Roald Amundsen's discovery of the North and South Poles, Mahatma Gandhi's peaceful struggle for India's independence, the laying of the foundations of ecology by Prince Albert 1st of Monaco, Louis Blériot's crossing of the English Channel, John F. Kennedy's political action and French doctor Jean-Louis Étienne's solo balloon flight over the North Pole. And very soon, a watch will participate in an attempt to be the first to cross the sound barrier in direct contact with the stratosphere, thereby proving its exceptional reliability.

Source: Zenith

November 3, 2010

Zenith Christophe Colomb

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UPDATE: I didn't catch this earlier, and the press release left out this information, but this movement appears to be derived from the Zero-G Multi-Dimensional Tourbillon that was introduced at Baselworld 2008.

Zenith recently announced a new wristwatch based on the design of a marine chronometer - the Christopher Columbus. By housing the regulating organ and escapement in a self-regulating gyroscopic module they can guarantee flat positioning, and therefore reduce rate variations. Tourbillons fix rate variations based on the average of 4 to 6 positions, and inclined and gyrotourbillons average even more positions, but this is still not as accurate, according to Zenith. Zenith's new patented 0G system keeps the escapement in a constant horizontal position, and therefore further minimizes rate variations.

Zenith Press Release

"Given the well-known fact that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position generates the best possible amplitude of the balance and thus considerably enhances timing precision, Manufacture Zenith decided to ensure that the regulating organ and the escapement were indeed permanently kept in this position.

This was of course easier said than done however, especially when one considers the numerous challenges of keeping a wristwatch flat in various daily or sporting activities such as driving, golfing, or skippering a boat. Applying this to a movement beating at the exceptionally high rate of 10 vibrations per second further complicated matters, which does much to explain why a full five years of development have gone into presenting one of the major recent accomplishments in the watch industry. Even the numbers give an idea of the sheer complexity of the task, since this daring complication comprises 166 components, while a tourbillon has approximately 66. The result is the first wrist-worn timepiece in which the rate is completely independent of its wearers' movements.

The rating precision of a classic watch varies according to its position. Gravity attracts the escapement components, which do not operate in exactly the same way according to the direction in which they are attracted. The friction between the various components is also different and the amplitude of the balance may be disturbed, causing it to gain or lose. The best position for an escapement is the horizontal position which ensures the best amplitude for the balance and on which gravity is perpendicular to the components and does not therefore disturb their rotation.

The need to improve the precision of clocks for navigation led to the invention of marine chronometers, in which the entire movement is mounted on gimbals and remains horizontal despite the ship's movements. This was the only way of achieving chronometric precision enabling a reliable measurement of position when at sea by comparing local solar noon with Greenwich Mean Time for example. When it became important to make pocket-watches more accurate, the same means could not be used, because that would have involved placing in the pocket a large mechanism measuring 50 mm.

Working on the principle that a watch in a pocket remains in a vertical position and that only the stem leans to the left or the right, the tourbillon watch was invented. This system does not prevent the position-related flaw from occurring, but instead averages out the flaw over the 4 vertical axes every minute. Since the watch does not move very much, it is adjusted to this particular average. However, as mentioned earlier, the constant vertical position of the balance is not the most favorable.

With the arrival of wristwatches, the positions of the watch were diversified by adding positions with the horizontal dial pointing downward or upward. Classic tourbillons continue to correct 4 positions out of 6 and already enhance precision, although only partially. Inclined tourbillons or gyrotourbillons average out more positions, but this is still the average of several errors, and they are only briefly in a horizontal position. The ultimate step thus lay in adapting the best solution, that of the constant horizontal escapement, to the wristwatch.

To avoid making a huge mechanism, only the part most sensitive to variations in position is mounted on gimbals and thus benefits from a more or less constant horizontal position - as well as a slightly gyroscopic stabilising effect of the balance. It was however necessary to find a system that enabled the two parts of the movement - the one that follows the position on the wrist and the one mounted on gimbals - to remain perfectly coordinated.

This perfect coordination is achieved in an extremely elegant manner by Zenith's patented 0G system. In this system, a gear system harnesses the rotations of the axes of the carriage and a reverser differential gear instantly compensates for all the relative movements of the various elements.

The cadence of the operation of the gear train indicating the time on the part connected to the wrist movements is imparted by the escapement situated in the carriage, which constantly seeks to find its point of equilibrium determined by gravity. If the watch is moved in such a way as to set the carriage spinning on its axis, the coordination system compensates for this rotation and the hands continue imperturbably indicating the correct time, whatever the speed of the direction of this rotation.

For all these reasons, Manufacture Zenith considers this system to be the ultimate evolution in comparison to the existing tourbillon systems."

The movement is a manually wound calibre Academy 8804. It has 45 jewels and operates at 36,000 vph (5hz), with a 50 hour power reserve. The case is 45 mm in diameter and comes in either rose, white or yellow 18k gold (limited edition of 25 pieces per variation). Water-resistance is 30 meters.

Zenith calls this timepiece a "Grande complication", which is not necessarily true. A "Grand complication" has a set of requirements that this timepiece does not meet. It is, however, an extremely complicated timepiece that with the help of the gyroscopic module, can keep the rate consistent, even with changes in the position of the timepiece. This is the first wristwatch to feature this type of function, and that by itself is meritorious. However, I do question how comfortable the round glass cage feels protruding through the caseback (at least 5 mm) - directly into your wrist.

References: 27.00.2218.630 Yellow Gold, References: 27.17.0003.940 Rose Gold, References: 27.31.0003.940 White Gold

Retail $209,000

Source: Zenith

October 22, 2010

Zenith and Westime Launch New El Primero Striking Limited Edition

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Zenith joined forces with Arctic explorer Jean-Louis Etienne to develop a watch suitable for extreme situations and taxing weather conditions. Clear skies prevailed in Southern California on the evening of October 7th, but giant outdoor glacier walls, snow-white decorations and a carved ice bar turned the Westime Beverly Hills boutique into a glacial setting ideal for the timepiece's debut.

Westime President Greg Simonian welcomed guests, and Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour described his collaboration with Jean-Louis Etienne before introducing the explorer himself. The first man to reach the North Pole on foot alone, Jean-Louis Etienne recalled his most recent expedition for which the new watch was created--his solo flight over the North Pole in a hot air balloon. Founder of Westime John Simonian and President of Zenith USA Alain Huy were also in attendance to celebrate the occasion.

Guests enjoyed specialty "Avalanche" cocktails created for the night, as well as risotto snowballs, North Pole crab cakes and peppermint profiteroles while viewing a film of Jean-Louis Etienne's flight and perusing a large selection of Zenith watches on exclusive display for the occasion. The event concluded with a drawing to award one guest with the prize of the night: a hot air balloon excursion.

El Primero Striking "Jean-Louis Etienne" is a 500-piece limited edition, and until mid-November it will be available only at Westime Beverly Hills and Westime Los Angeles. Here is the regular edition of the El Primero Striking, which was introduced earlier this year at Baselworld.

Source: Westime

June 1, 2010

Zenith El Primero Saga & Striking 10th

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At Baselworld 2010, I had a chance to view the new Zenith El Primero Striking 10th timepiece, in gold. In recent years Zenith has gotten away from their core, which is more traditional timepieces. Under the direction of their new CEO, Jean-Frédéric Dufour, they are getting back to basics. And this, of course, includes their famous EL Primero movement. Below are some photos of the new El Primero collection, with the cool Striking 10th feature (shown in gold) and the new El Primero Sage (shown in stainless steel).

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February 25, 2010

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Foudroyante to be unveiled at Baselworld 2010

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Last year, Zenith unveiled the vintage El Primero collection during the Basel show. Which was, by far, my favorite of their new collections. They had some other nice timepieces as well, but in general, the majority of their designs were not well received. Too many of their designs were so off from the original Zenith look, that the company had begun to lose its following over the past five years. Fast forward to 2010, under the new direction of Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who previously worked for Chopard, Ulysse Nardin and the Swatch Group. As part of his turnaround strategy, he has begun to reduce the number of references, and bring the company back to basics. To start, the company will be introducing an exciting new El Primero Chronograph model, very much like Vintage 1969 El Primero Chronograph they introduced last year, except this one has a more contemporary case design and look. It also features a very cool new jumping seconds function (foudroyante).

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June 1, 2009

Vintage 1969 Zenith El Primero Chronograph

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This year Zenith is celebrating the 40th Anniversary of their famous El Primero movement. The movement was the first of its kind, offering a 36,000 vph frequency and an automatic integrated column-wheel chronograph with date. Zenith actually sold the movement to Rolex to power the Daytona, before Rolex had in-house movement manufacturing capabilities. "Unrivaled to date, El Primero is the only chronograph movement capable of measuring short periods of time with 1/10th of a second accuracy." The movement is able to accept add-ons: triple calendar, moon phase and flyback. It is also available in tourbillon, open, power reserve and Grand date versions.

The watch I got to see at Baselworld, was the steel version of the new El Primero Vintage 1969 Chronograph (pictured above). The new vintage El Primero chronograph is also available in rose gold or black titanium.

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