SIHH 2011: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin
March 6, 2011
At SIHH 2011 there were two major trends, vintage retro watches and ultra-thin watches. This beautiful timepiece, with a mere 6.7 mm thick case, is the latter. To utilize such a thin case, Audemars Piguet, had to create an even thinner movement. The calibre 2120, like all movements at AP, was designed and produced in-house. The self-winding movement features 37 jewels, 214 parts, 40-hour power reserve and the balance beats at an unusual 19,800 vph (2.75 Hz). All parts finished by hand; mainplate rhodium-plated, bevelled and circular-grained; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève.
The caliber 2120 movement is wound by a 21K pink gold skeletonized central oscillating weight. The oscillating weight (rotor) is bi-directional (it winds in both directions as opposed to the more typical uni-directional rotor configuration). To keep the movement thin, AP used a circular ring with 4 jewels rotating for the oscillating weight, instead of a ball bearing configuration. The four jewels are fixed on the deck. Due to this special design, the sound of the automatic rotor is supposed to be very pleasing.
The 41 mm diameter case is 18k white gold and features both polished and brushed surfaces. The dial is silvered with applied pink gold hour-markers. The hour and minute hands are also pink gold. The silvered dial and pink gold contrast very nicely, creating a very elegant look.
The strap is hand-sewn black crocodile leather with a large square scales, secured by an 18k white gold pin buckle. Water-resistant is 20 meters.