Pre-Basel 2015: Voutilainen GMR
February 19, 2015
Independent watchmaker, Kari Voutilainen, has released a preview of his latest timepiece – featuring a GMT function and retrograde power reserve indicator – that he will be debuting at Baselworld next month.
Apart from the hairspring and 28 jewels, all of the 250 movement parts are developed, fabricated, manufactured or crafted by hand, and then assembled in Voutilainen’s workshops, located in Môtiers.
The movement plates and bridges made in rhodium-plated German silver, with Côtes de Genève and hand-chamfering finishes. The manually wound movement is based on the caliber which powers the Vingt-8 GMT. However, instead of adding a module for the power reserve, the function has been integrated into a new movement (which is better than an add-on module).
The balance is free sprung (with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 2.5Hz). The balance wheel is large (at 13.60 mm in diameter) and is supported by a long, traversing balance bridge.
Notably, the in-house made GMT mechanism allows for the second time zone (located at 6 o’clock, and indicated by the small red hand) can be adjusted by the crown in one hour increments – but not by turning the crown, instead you push the crown.
The retrograde power reserve indicator, located at 12 o’clock, displays how much power is remaining in the mainspring.
The dial is made of solid silver and engined turned by hand (guilloché-work). It has a galvanic coating in a very dark shade of green, with red accents.
The Roman numeral hour markers are hand applied and the hands feature Voutilainen’s oversized Breguet-style open tipped design. The flange is printed with white dots, with silver dots at 12, 3, 6 and 9.
The Voutilainen GMR comes in a 39 mm case, with a anti-reflective sapphire crystal (front and back), that is available in 18K white gold, 18K red gold or platinum. Limited to 12 pieces. Hand-stitched crocodile strap with Voutilainen buckle.