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November 2015

Ulysse Nardin FreakLab Boutique Edition

Ulysse Nardin debuts a boutique-only FreakLab timepiece in all black. Crafted in blackened titanium with a carbon fiber bezel, the case diameter is 45 mm, and as the name suggests, there is a unique mechanism inside. The tourbillon, silicum double escapement, silicium hairspring, balance wheel, and the entire gear train are all visible on the dial. The mechanism you see in the center of the dial, with all the aforementioned components, also acts as the minute hand, rotating once around the dial every hour. Further, a short, exaggerated arrow-shaped hour hand is also set in the center. Together they indicate the time. Setting and winding the watch are just as unusual as telling the time. Instead of a crown, the time is set using the bezel. Setting the time (hours and minutes) is done by unlocking the bezel via a

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Jason Pitsch

Black Friday: 10 Gift Ideas for Watch Enthusiasts

Jason Pitsch

For Black Friday, we carefully compiled a list of ten thoughtful gift ideas for the watch enthusiast, collector, or connoisseur in your life. The products we selected range from $10 to $525. 1- Crown and Buckle Nato straps $10+ 2- Worn & Wound keychain strap tool $20 3- Victorinox Classic SD Small Pocket Knife $20 4- Worn & Wound Cone Mill White Oak Selvage Denim watch roll $175 5- Italian leather VintageStraps $100+ 6- Caran d’Ache 849 ballpoint pen $23 7- George Daniels “All In Good Time Reflections of a Watchmaker” $43 8- Swiss Kubik Startbox watch winder $460 9- Loupesystem $525+ 10- Singe Malt Whisky $45+

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: Armin Strom Tourbillon Gravity Water

Jason Pitsch

Overview In 1967, after completing his watchmaking apprenticeship, Armin Strom opened his own shop in Altstadt (Old Town) area of Burgdorf. At first, he was selling and restoring watches, although he soon began working on producing his own timepieces. His first masterpiece was a gold pocket watch, with a hand-engraved dial in polished blue lapis lazuli. Strom’s manual dexterity and incredible attention to detail led him to hone his skills in skeletonizing and engraving. His desire to cut away all the non-essential parts of the bridges and plate (skeletonizing), allowed him to use his unique skill set to distinguish his timepieces. He started exhibiting his skeletonized creations at Baselworld in 1984, at which point he had already made a name for himself as a master skeletonizer and engraver. He even made it into the Guinness Book of World Records when

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Harry Winston unveils Avenue Dual Time

On the heels of Opus 14, Harry Winston has just announced another off-center timepiece called the Avenue Dual Time. It features local time on the left, via a retrograde display – and home time on the right, via traditional hour and minute hands. The local time display (left) has a angled red indicator hand that moves through the three vertical apertures, indicating the hour. According to Harry Winston, “The second timezone works in a different way. Pulling on the crown removes the red hand from sight. The time is set using a small disc located in the opening at the center of the dial. Pushing in the crown, the hand returns to its position. This sequence is essential to the proper functioning of the retrograde system that displays the local time. The hand moves gradually from 0 to 12 o’clock,

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Josh Shanks

REVIEW: Bovet Dimier 19Thirty

Josh Shanks

History I have to admit when Jason gave me the Bovet 19Thirty to review I didn’t know what to expect. Having never spent any considerable time with Bovet and their lines, I made it my duty to find out as much as possible about this very old brand. What I found was actually fascinating, the brand was founded in London by Edouard Bovet in 1822. In the beginning, Bovet focused the efforts of his company on producing watches for a booming Chinese market. At the time, London was the perfect shipping port for sending goods to China. Eventually, demand exceeded the capabilities of their small London-based manufacture and the company started purchasing parts from Swiss manufacturers. Early on, Bovet produced mainly pocket watches for the Chinese market, who were at the time beginning to appreciate the quality of a fine

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the new Tudor Fastrider Black Shield

Jason Pitsch

Tudor has debuted a new version of the Fastrider Black Shield. Originally launched at Baselworld 2013, the Black Shield is the ceramic model within the Fastrider collection, which also includes stainless steel variants. Similar to all the Fastrider launches to date, the Black Shield was launched alongside the new Ducati motorcycle. Appropriately, this time around, the new bike is the all-black Ducati XDiavel cruiser. Tudor has left everything intact from the 2013 Fastrider Black Shield models – including the 42 mm diameter monobloc black ceramic case and 7753 ETA movement – with the exception of a new dial that is all-black with contrasting white: indexes, seconds hand, lume, subdial markings, logo and so on. The only other change is the slightly enlarged “Black Shield” moniker on the dial at 12 o’clock. (Ref. 42000CN)

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Pre-SIHH: The Tonda Métrographe Abyss Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier presents its PRE-SIHH timepiece, the Tonda Métrographe with Abyss Blue dial. According to the manufacture, “In order to draw a new highlight on the Métro collection, we have worked with a talented photographer who has captured the essence of 4 Tonda Métro executions in different cities across the globe. We start with Chicago representing our pre-SIHH piece. The subsequent 3 cities, watch executions and urban tales will be available after SIHH 2016. Each of them will continue to highlight the urban spirit of the collection and its link with photography.” The Tonda Métrographe is powered by a 4Hz automatic (caliber PF315) which has been developed and produced in-house and has 351 components, 46 jewels, 2 series-coupled barrels, “Côtes de Genève” finishing, bevelled bridges, and a 42-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, small second at 3 o’clock, date

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Josh Shanks

Salon QP 2015: Recap and highlights

Josh Shanks

Flying into London Friday morning, I had no idea what to expect from SalonQP but was very excited to be attending for the first time. For those of you not familiar, SalonQP is an annual watch fair hosted by QP magazine at the Saatchi gallery. I went into my first “QP” (as the locals seem to call it; an abbreviation for Quantième Perpétuel) with an open mind and a shiny new camera (Canon EOS M3 to be exact). Arriving into Heathrow after a restless night in cattle class (i.e. coach), I thought I would try to save a few pounds and take the Heathrow Express to the local tube line. The Heathrow express is a lovely way to get to central London. However, as a New Yorker used to the grid system and an orderly subway map, upon transferring to

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Venturer Tourbillon Skeleton

Jason Pitsch

Today, Schauffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie, introduced a skeletonized tourbillon. The Venturer Tourbillon Skeleton comes is 41.5 mm in diameter by 14.3 mm in thick case and is crafted in red gold. An argenté-finished flange frames the skeletonized movement that is fully visible from the dial side. Red gold applied indexes indicate the hours. Leaf-shaped rose gold hands indicate the hours and minutes, with a leaf-shaped blued steel central second time zone hand. Located prominently at 6 o’clock is a 60-second tourbillon. A curved sapphire crystal protects the dial, along with a see-through sapphire case-back. The screw-in red gold crown is adorned with an “M.” Powering this elegant 3-hander is a skeletonized version of automatic caliber HMC 803 which runs at 21,600 vph (3Hz). A bi-directional pawl-winding system wound by a solid 18K red gold skeletonized rotor winds in

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Josh Shanks

Hamilton Watch Fair in Palm Beach Gardens

Josh Shanks

Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of attending Hamilton Jeweler’s annual watch fair at their Princeton, NJ location. Hamilton’s watch fairs are a unique experience that you shouldn’t pass up. Essentially, representatives from around the world fly in to work alongside Hamilton’s sales staff. The events typically last a weekend and the energy is through the roof. I expect this year’s Palm Beach Watch Fair to be no different. Since I’ll be repping ProfessionalWatches at SalonQP this weekend, I’ll sadly be unable to attend, but that shouldn’t stop you from dropping by! Even for the casual collector, these events are a must. Hamilton’s staff is passionate, driven, and take a low-pressure approach to selling some of the world’s finest timepieces. Further Details: When: Friday, November 13 and Saturday, November 14 Time: 10am-6pm Location: Hamilton Jewelers The Gardens Mall, Palm

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