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January 2016

Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon explained by Anthony de Haas

In this video, Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development, at German-based watchmaker A. Lange & Sohne, demonstrates the complicated Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon that was launched at the Geneva watch show (SIHH) in January. At 10 minutes, this video is not short, but considering every technical feature of this incredible flagship Datrograph is precisely explained by the person in charge of its development – it is well worth the watch.

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Cartier Drive Watch Collection

Jason Pitsch

Cartier debuted an all new automotive-inspired watch collection, called the Drive de Cartier, last week in Geneva. The automotive inspired design is distinguished by a cushion-shaped case, crafted in steel or pink gold – with a choice of a black, grey, or white dial. Satin textured flanks contrast against the fully polished surfaces on the top and bottom of the case, highlighting its elegant curves. Each dial, is punctuated by large Roman numeral hour markers, intricate guilloché motifs, and sword-shaped hands (blued steel or pink gold). Cartier Drive in pink gold with grey dial There are three models within the Drive collection, starting with a three-hand and date model, then a retrograde dual time with day/night indication, and a complicated flying tourbillon model at the top of the line. Cartier caliber 1904-PS MC The first is powered by caliber 1904-PS

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2016: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon

Jason Pitsch

Ahead of Baselworld 2016, TAG Heuer has released a preview of their new accessibly priced Carrera chronograph tourbillon collection, which starts at $15,000. Made from grade 5 titanium, the Heuer-02T case has a brushed finish with a black titanium bezel, and a steel crown over molded with rubber. There is also an all black variant, called the Black Phantom. The dial is skeletonized, with black bridges, and a carbon and titanium tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. A dual register chronograph layout displays chrono hours at 9 o’clock and chrono minutes at 3 o’clock. Large baton-shaped hour and minute hands display the time along with polished and satin-finished baton indexes. Hands and indexes are treated with a luminous material. TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon (Ref. CAR5A8Y.FC6377) Inside, is the Heuer-02T automatic chronograph, which was developed directly from the DNA of the

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SIHH 2016: Panerai Luminor 8 Days Set

At the annual Geneva Watch Show (SIHH) last week, Officine Panerai debuted a new set of watches inspired by two pre-Vendôme era references, from the early days when Panerai was acquired by Vendôme, part of the Richemont Group, in 1997. According to Officine Panerai, “in 1996 Panerai made a few small series of watches commissioned by Sylvester Stallone. The new Luminor 8 Days Set takes two models originally created for he American actor: a Luminor Black Seal, here presented for the first time in a left-handed version, and a Luminor Daylight with an original, extremely rare white dial with blue markers and numerals. The two watches are supplied in a box inspired by those used for vintage Luminor watches, made of pear wood with a teak base and containing a model of the human torpedo (Siluro a Lenta Corsa –

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Cyrille Vigneron takes over as CEO of Cartier

Cartier, the largest brand within the Richemont Group, announced November 6, 2015, the appointment of Cyrille Vigneron as the new CEO of Cartier International, which became effective January 1, 2016. Vigneron succeeds Stanislas de Quercize and joins the Richemont Group Management Committee on the same date. Cyrille Vigneron said, “I am delighted to be back at Cartier and I am looking forward to embarking with its teams on this new journey. We know each other well and I am confident that I can rely on their enthusiasm to continue the great work carried out by Stanislas de Quercize, and address the challenges currently facing the Maison and the profession as a whole.” Cyrille Vigneron is a 54-year-old French national, who worked with the Richemont Group from 1988 to 2013, including as Managing Director of Cartier Japan (1997-2002), President of Richemont

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Signature 1

Jason Pitsch

One of the highlights of the SIHH 2016 watch trade show that took place in Geneva last week, was the Signature 1 – watchmaker Greubel Forsey’s first-time-only watch. To design this so-called “entry-level” timepiece – with the usual immaculate execution of a Greubel Forsey – it took Didier J.G. Cretin, a long-time watchmaker at the company, and his team, 6 years to develop. Notably, the balance wheel and gold dial were all developed in-house. In regards to finishing, the hands, which are gold or steel, depending on the case – were countersunk and finished by hand. The oversized balance wheel (which measures 12.6 mm) features an expertly applied black polish, as does the bridge which supports it. Geneva stripes surround the diamond bevelled gold dial. The nickel silver bridges are frosted, as is the main plate. However instead of a

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Jason Pitsch

Parmigiani Fleurier Unveils New Integrated Chronograph at SIHH

Jason Pitsch

To celebrate its 20th Anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier developed a very special timepiece, powered by the manufacture’s first integrated chronograph – which they debuted at SIHH. First, the movement is made of 18K rose gold, which significantly complicates the production process. Everything from milling the plates to finishing the bridges is more difficult than the typical movement material, which is brass of nickel. The machines have to be recalibrated, thus, everything takes longer. In the end, it is worth it, though, as the results are stunning. Second, as mentioned above, this is the brand’s first integrated chronograph, a feat that cannot be underestimated, especially considering many watch companies will never reach this pinnacle. Adding a module on top of an existing chronograph is the alternative to an integrated chronograph, which adds thickness to the movement, and is far less pure than

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2016: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph

Jason Pitsch

Ahead of Baselworld 2016, Omega has previewed their new Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer, which is distinguished by a sun-brushed blue dial with moonphase indication, and powered by a new METAS-certified manufacture movement. Omega Master Co-axial Chronometer caliber 9904 beats at 4Hz (28,800 vph) and is made up of over 368 components. Technically speaking, two barrels, mounted in series, offer a 60-hour maximum power reserve. The automatic winding is done in both directions, which results in faster replenishment of the power reserve. The movement is METAS-certified, and so as per the prerequisites, it is resistant to magnetic interference to 15,000 Gauss. Additional specifications include a column wheel actuated chronograph, Silicon “Si14” balance spring, Omega free sprung-balance, Co-Axial Escapement, NIVACHOC, rhodium-plated rotor and bridges, Geneva waves in arabesque, and blackened screws, blackened barrels, and blackened balance wheel. Functions include a moonphase

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Jason Pitsch

IWC Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar launched at SIHH

Jason Pitsch

First introduced in 2012, the Top Gun Miramar line has become a staple within the IWC Pilot’s collection. This year, in addition to updated versions of the existing models being introduced, there is an all new Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar timepiece at the entry-level. All new to the Mark XVIII collection is a fully polished 41 mm ceramic case. The size and look are great, and it is safe to say these will sell well. However, we would like to see a matte ceramic case option as well. Nevertheless, purists have been asking for smaller diameter watches, and IWC has delivered. Like the original Top Gun Miramar models, minutes and seconds are read off the main chapter ring, and hours are shown on the inner chapter ring, in red. The military/aviation inspired dial design historically focused on minutes and

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Josh Shanks

Hands-On with the new Overseas collection

Josh Shanks

This year at SIHH, Vacheron Constantin completely overhauled their Overseas collection, introducing five new models (representing 12 references), all equipped with manufacture movements, including three new calibers. Most notably – and the topic of much conversation – Vacheron Constantin has redesigned the case of the Overseas models. This is the biggest design departure since the transition from the 222 (introduced in 1977) to the recent look that has been around since 1996. The Overseas still shares many design elements from the original reference 222, such as the fluted bezel, as well as its sporty properties such as shock resistance, water-resistance, and anti-magnetism. However, gone are many of the straight angles, which are now curved, particularly at the lugs and case edges. The manufacture release says, “The curves of the case ensure seamless integration with the bracelet or strap, a feature

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