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Jason Pitsch

Patek Philippe introduces 'Flamme' Diamond Set Calatrava

Jason Pitsch

August 12, 2016

Introduced this year at Baselworld, the Calatrava Ref. 7200/200R ladies watch features a new gem-setting technique that utilizes staggered rows of diamonds to amplify their sparkle and brilliance. The technique called “Flamme,” has been officially registered as a trademark by Patek Philippe for the horological industry.

The unique gem-setting technique is complex and requires the skilled hand of a master jeweler. Furthermore, as with all jewelry pieces, only superb, flawless Top Wessleton brilliant-cut diamonds are used, in accordance with Patek Philippe’s rigorous standards as stipulated by the Patek Philippe Seal.

The 18K rose gold Calatrava bezel is set with 142 diamonds, in two staggered rows. Each stone is placed inside a drilled slot. The gem-setter then manually sculpts a small prong for each setting and then bends it over the diamond to secure it on one side from above.

Then, using a sharp burin tool, he or she splits the gold between the diamonds. This causes the gold material to be pushed aside, further securing each respective adjacent diamond.

The staggered apertures beneath each stone allow extra light to shine through amplifying the luster of the diamonds. Moreover, because the prongs are offset against each other as well, they create a texture on the bezel that resembles bobbin lace.

The new Calatrava 7200/200R features an ultra-thin Officer’s style case with a silvery grained dial with applied rose gold Breguet numerals, minute pearls, and Poire Stuart hour and minute hands in polished rose gold.

A 22K micro-rotor unidirectionally winds the Patek Philippe caliber 240. The automatic movement beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), features 161 parts and 27 jewels. Notably, the movement measures a svelte 2.53 mm, which allows for a slim 7.37 mm case (crystal to display back). The case diameter is 34.6 mm, 36.76 mm including the crown, 41.5 mm from lug to lug, and 17 mm between the lugs. Water-resistance is 30 meters.

This high jewelry ladies timepiece is completed with a hand-stitched shiny royal purple alligator strap with large square scales and a prong buckle decorated with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Baselworld, Hands-On, Horology, Ladies', Patek Philippe, Videos


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