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October 2016

Introducing the Ateliers deMonaco Saphir

Ateliers deMonaco, the high-end division of the Frederique Constant Group, which was recently purchased by Citizen Watch Company, has just unveiled a new sapphire dial timepiece with the Poinçon de Genève certification (otherwise known as the “Geneva Seal”). Available in either white or rose gold, each Saphir case is fully polished by hand and measures 40 mm x 9.2 mm. Powering the timepiece is manually wound in-house caliber dMc-708, which beats at 4Hz (28,800 vph), has a 38-hour power reserve, and 18 jewels. As the name of the watch suggests, the dial, not just the front and rear crystals, is made of sapphire (produced synthetically). Applied directly to the sapphire dial by hand are black PVD-plated Roman numerals as well as small curved, diamond cut indices. The train track chapter ring for minutes/seconds is printed in black on the outer

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Jason Pitsch

Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition with new fume dial Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Featuring an annual calendar complication, a chronograph, and a fume dial – the El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition makes Zenith’s often forgot about annual calendar chronograph worth remembering. Specifically, the new brown-gold fume dial – contrasted by rhodium-plated applied Arabic hour numerals and rhodium-plated hour, minute, and second hands – transforms the watch into quite the stunner. Apart from the dial, this El Primero Annual Calendar is the same as previous models, with a 42 mm x 13.85 mm polished stainless steel case, an exhibition caseback, and powered by automatic caliber 4054. Running at 5Hz, the 30 mm x 8.3 mm El Primero movement consists of 29 jewels and 341 total components, and has a 50-hour power reserve. The annual calendar function, also called a “complete calendar” keeps the date set with only one adjustment needed per year

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Introducing the Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

Saint-Imier, Switzerland-based watchmaker Longines released a vintage re-edition today, based on a 1935 timepiece that was originally made for pilots. The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 is presented in a round fully polished 41 mm diameter stainless steel case (the original case was 51 mm in diameter). It is immediately distinguished by its white lacquer dial that has an unusual alignment at a 40° angle, to the right. This configuration places the 12 o’clock Arabic numeral where 2 o’clock is normally located on a typical watch dial. The atypical dial layout is not just to be different, that watch was actually designed to be worn on the inside of the wrist, with the unique orientation allowing the pilot to read the indices without having to release the plane’s control yoke. Moreover, the crown was designed to be easily adjusted,

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Lange 1 Timezone now in honey gold

Yesterday, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a new honey gold version of the Lange 1 Time Zone watch. The rotating city ring features Dresden now instead Berlin (Central European Time), which is the closest city to Lange’s headquarters in Glashutte, Germany and the place where the original Lange 1 was unveiled 22 years ago. The Lange 1 Time Zone model, however, has been in production since 2005. At 41.9 mm x 11 mm case has the same dimensions as before, although this limited edition is crafted of 18K honey gold, which is proprietary to Lange, with a hue somewhere in between rose and yellow gold, and much harder than other gold alloys which help to reduce scratches. The manually wound movement – caliber L031.1, beats at 3Hz (21,600 kph), has a 72-hour power reserve, 4 screwed gold chains, 54 jewels,

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Jason Pitsch

DeWitt Academia Skeleton with Bi-Retrograde Seconds

Jason Pitsch

Swiss watchmaker, DeWitt, is set to unveil a new timepiece called the Academia Skeleton, which features a unique bi-retrograde seconds function, at the SalonQP show next week. The Academia Skeleton is presented in 42.5 mm diameter rose gold case, which has a fully polished finish on most surfaces, except the hollowed lugs, which have a frosted matte finish. Conversely, the dial and movement are predominantly matte finished. The chapter ring has a circular brushed finish and is darkened, as are the movement bridges and mainplate. Contrasting the dial are the sword-shaped skeletonized hour, minute and second hands that are in polished rose gold. The applied indices on the chapter ring, are also in rose gold. Uniquely, the indices are shaped almost like a wedge of cheese or a doorstop, which produces a three-dimensional effect. The watch is powered by a

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Original owner Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 Explorer dial with box and papers to be auctioned

Gardiner Houlgate auctioneers in the UK have an original owner Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 with a rare Explorer dial that will be auctioned on October 26th. The watch was purchased from Perry Greaves Limited in Birmingham on May 28th, 1966, for £69.10. It was a gift from the seller’s wife just before the birth of their first child, who was born in October of the same year. The 3-6-9 hour markers make this watch what is called a Submariner “Explorer” dial, due to its similarity to an actual Rolex Explorer dial. This is, of course, rarer than a standard 5513 and so it is worth many times more. Plus, it includes box and papers, and story from its original owner along with photos from the 1960s and 1970s, respectively, showing him wearing the watch. Additional details of the watch include

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Manufacture Royale 1770 Micromegas Revolution

Manufacture Royale, an independent watchmaker based in Switzerland’s famous Vallée de Joux region, has unveiled a new complicated timepiece that features a double flying tourbillon, with two different rotation speeds. The 1770 Micromegas Revolution has a regulator dial with a separate hour display located between 1 and 2 o’clock on the dial. The hours are printed in blue and a large blued Sword-shaped hand (similar to the hands on other Manufacture Royale pieces) indicates the current hour. Minutes are indicated by a skeletonized rotating disk, just below and to the left of the hour subdial. The upper left of the dial is dominated by the micro-rotor, which is steel on the titanium case and rose gold for the rose gold case. At the bottom of the dial, are the stars of the show: two double flying tourbillons. The left tourbillon

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Three new high-end limited edition Swiss watches

Sequential One S110 Skull The Sequential One – S110 Skull, is a 10-piece limited series available in four versions: all-black, green accents, yellow accents, or aluminum color accents. The skull is made of ultra-thin lightweight aluminum, which the company says “remains light enough to accompany the hour-change ballet, successively revealing one of the brand’s four iconic rotating modules.” This limited edition was unveiled at the opening of the “Salón Internacional Alta Relojería 2016” in Mexico, birthplace of the famous “Festival of Skulls” (Calaveras) tradition. FP Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire Limited Series The Anniversary Centigraphe Souverain was created to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of each F.P.Journe Boutique. An exclusive edition for each boutique comes in a 40 mm polished titanium case, with a ruthenium dial with sapphire registers, and 18K rose gold crown and rocker (to operate the chronograph), and a

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Atmos 568 by Marc Newson

Jaeger-LeCoultre and Marc Newson first worked together on an Atmos clock back in 2008. And since then they have created a number of collaborations, including here and here. For 2016, Marc Newson worked with the Le Sentier-based manufacture once again to create a unique version of the iconic Atmos clock. The Atmos 568 by Marc Newson clock is housed in a beautiful monoblock Baccarat crystal globe. And like all Atmos clocks, the movement is powered by changes in the temperature of the air. Inside of the crystal-clear housing, the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 568 mechanical movement is fully visible from all angles. Consisting of 211 parts, a glass dial with blue transferred numerals, two-tone blue hands, brushed stainless steel counterweight, and an annular balance wheel with an oscillating period of 60 seconds – the Atmos 568 is both a technical masterpiece and

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Jason Pitsch

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2

Jason Pitsch

This week Zenith launched a vintage re-edition called the Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 – based on the 1960s Cairelli chronograph. The original Cairelli timepiece was sold by Roman retailer A. Cairelli, who supplied these particular watches to the Italian Air Force. The dial read “A. CAIRELLI, ROMA” and the solid caseback was engraved with AMI and CP. Aesthetically, not a lot has changed from the original 1960s model. The retailer name at 6 o’clock now reads “AUTOMATIC.” And the Zenith star is now applied instead of printed at 12 o’clock. Zenith 1960s Cairelli chronograph Ref. AMI, Photo Credit: Hodinkee The case is slightly bigger at 43 mm x 12.85 mm, compared to the original which is 42.5 mm x 12.5 mm. And a sapphire crystal is used now instead of a plexiglass. However, like the original, the back is made

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