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November 2016

Oris Sixty Divers Sixty Five with new silver dial

Since launching the Divers Sixty Five last year at Baselworld, which we reviewed, Oris has since released a number of follow-up models to the original vintage-inspired 1965 homage dive watch. Those models included a 40 mm version of the Divers Sixty Five with a funky two-tone Deauville blue dial, as well as a really cool Carl Brashear limited edition Diver Sixty Five watch presented in a 42 mm diameter bronze-alloy case. Along the way, there was also a blue, and then a green dial version of the 42 mm version in steel, with a more modern aesthetic that includes round applied indexes. It too was based on a historic Oris dive watch. And now, Oris has revealed yet another version of the 42 mm Divers Sixty Five with a silver dial. I like this new aesthetic, especially when paired with

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Jason Pitsch

Photo Report: Tudor Pelagos LHD

Jason Pitsch

The newly launched Tudor Pelagos LHD (Left-Hand Drive), is fundamentally the same as the existing Tudor Pelagos line, but with a modified version of the existing movement that has the crown moved to the left side of the case (which makes it a so-called left-hand watch). To do so, Tudor re-worked the movement and the case accordingly. In doing so, they also made a few other subtle changes, namely the lume which is now a beige color, a roulette (red/black alternating numerals) date wheel, “PELAGOS” dial text in red, and for the first time since the Marine Nationale models that were produced for the French Navy in the 1970s, Tudor offers a numbered edition. As someone that is right-hand dominant (and that wears my watch on the left-hand), the Tudor Pelagos feels like the current right-hand Pelagos model, but with

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Black Friday: 10 Affordable Gift Ideas

Stefano Bemer Handmade Italian Watch Straps (pictured above), starting at $290. The quality of the straps is on par with the shoes of the same name that can cost upwards of $2500. No machine stitching, everything is made by hand in Italy. Only the best leathers are used – exotic materials such as sharkskin, kudu, elephant, and horse leather are available as an option. If you prefer contrast stitching, quick release spring bars, special sizes, just ask – everything is possible. These are truly bespoke watch straps of the highest quality. We hope you enjoy this curated selection of affordable gift items even if not all are discounted or watch related! Valextra Pebble-Grain Leather Watch Roll $595 Stefano Bemer Brogue Hole Pattern Card Wallets $168 Topo Designs Daypack $169 Frederique Constant Analytics Clip $99 The Wristwatch Handbook $85 Hestra Gloves

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Jason Pitsch

F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

In 2013, F.P. Journe introduced the Octa Quantième Perpétuel, replacing the Octa Calendrier – which has an annual calendar complication – effectively making that a collector’s piece. The new design includes a more sophisticated perpetual calendar complication – that adjusts for the difference in the number of days for every month without any need for an adjustment – whereas an annual calendar needs a manual adjustment in February. Further, the perpetual calendar automatically adjusts every fourth year (leap year), for the extra day in February. This mechanism will maintain mechanical memory until the year 2100. The hidden month/leap year corrector retracted from underneath the lug There are a few features worth highlighting that distinguish the Quantième Perpetual from most other perpetual calendars. First, all calendar functions (day, date, month), have an instantaneous jump when the day changes. Second, simultaneous correction

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Garrick Portsmouth

Jason Pitsch

English watchmaker, Garrick, was founded in 2014, and while they started out with somewhat affordable watches that utilize NOS Unitas 6497 base movements, they have progressed quite a bit, horologically, in a few short years. This month, at the SalonQP, they introduced their latest creation, the Portsmouth, which is housed in the company’s 42 mm circular case, with an onion-shaped crown. With the Portsmouth, Garrick puts on display – via an opening at the base of the dial – their proprietary free sprung balance wheel. Going beyond the benefits of a typical free sprung balance wheel, which offers easy adjustment of the rate by tightening and loosening screws, Garrick’s design features screws affixed “in-board” to the spokes of the wheel, mitigating the disruption to the airflow. The company’s free sprung balance wheel has been used on previous movements, including the

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The Most Ostentatious Watch Ever?

With the recent sale of a vintage Patek Philippe 1518 in steel, for over $11 million – which is the highest a wristwatch has ever sold for at auction – it makes you wonder how someone could pay a million, let alone over ten million, for a new watch. Especially considering it will only lose value over time. Perhaps the answer is that the person is a billionaire that has so much money it doesn’t matter what they buy and how much value it retains or loses. And that, is surely the idea behind the one-off Billionaire watch that Jacob & Co created in 2015. At $18 million, Chopard and Graff have offered more expensive diamond-studded watches in the past, at $26 and $40 million, respectively. But with a total of 260 carats of flawless emerald-cut diamonds, set on a

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Jason Pitsch

Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2015, Schauffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie unveiled the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Skeleton, in a red gold case (limited to 9 pieces). Alongside that watch, a one off Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton watch was offered and subsequently purchased by Laurent Picciotto, the owner of Chronopassion (a high-end watch boutique in Paris). Based on that design, and powered by the same tourbillon equipped, automatic winding caliber HMC 803 movement used in the two aforementioned watches, H. Moser & Cie has created the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton. The watch features the same 41.5 mm x 14.3 mm 3-part sapphire crystal case, with integrated sapphire flange, and sapphire crown. What is new is the midnight blue indices, mainplate, and bridges, which provide more of a contrast with the clear case compared to the original model.

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MCT Sequential One S110 Evo Vantablack

In collaboration with the artist, Anish Kapoor, MCT created a Vantablack version of their signature Sequential One timepiece. Vantablack is a substance that is made of carbon nanotubes, and which absorbs up to 99.965% of visible light. It is considered the blackest substance ever produced by man. Initially developed for the military and aerospace industry, Vantablack soon caught the interest of Anish Kapoor. As the artist explains, “it’s the blackest material in the universe, after a black hole; a physical object that is impossible to see”. The Sequential One S110 Evo Vantablack has the same 45 mm x 45 mm x 15.5 mm case design as previous versions of the Sequential One S110 Evo. And in this particular instance, is crafted from grade 5 titanium with a dark DLC treatment. It also uses the existing caliber MCT-S1.0 – which powers

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Jason Pitsch

Tudor introduces a Pelagos designed for Left-Handed Divers

Jason Pitsch

In 2015, Tudor slightly redesigned their professional diver’s watch – the Pelagos – with a new dial that features five lines of text at 6 o’clock instead of two lines like its predecessor. However, the biggest change was the addition of a new in-house automatic movement, caliber MT 5621, in place of the ETA 2824 which powered the original Pelagos, and which beats at 4Hz, has 26 jewels and boasts a 70-hour power reserve. The movement uses a silicon balance spring and has a variable inertia balance wheel, with a traversing balance bridge which makes the regulator assortment, and it is a COSC-certified movement. Now, Tudor introduces a left-hand version of the Pelagos diving watch for the first time (the crown is on the left instead of the traditional location on the right side of the case, and is therefore

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Jason Pitsch

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike

Jason Pitsch

Following the 2006 launch of the L.U.C. Strike One model which chimes the hour, Chopard Manufacture has unveiled an in-house minute repeater that chimes the minutes, quarter hours, and hours. Technically speaking, the all-new L.U.C. Full Strike features one of the most innovative minute repeater designs on the market. A design that took 6 years to develop and produce, and is the subject of 3 pending patents. The most notable feature of this unprecedented minute repeater wristwatch is the specially manufactured monoblock sapphire crystal which acts both as a traditional crystal that protects the dial side of the watch and as the gongs. The use of transparent gongs that are an integral part of the front sapphire crystal, allowed Chopard to craft a case that is small relative to other minute repeaters (42.5 mm x 11.55 mm). Moreover, according to

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