Pre-Baselworld: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity
February 28, 2017
Schaffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie, will introduce incredibly minimalistic perpetual calendar timepiece at Baselworld next month.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity comes in a 42 mm x 11.9 mm white gold case and is powered by caliber HMC 800. The manually wound movement measures 34.0 mm x 6.3 mm, beats 2.5Hz (18,000 vph), has 32 jewels, and a power reserve of 7 days (double barrels).
Highlighted by a beautiful midnight-blue fumé dial with sunburst pattern, and protected by a curved sapphire crystal, the face of the watch is marked with just two double indexes, at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The look is very elegant, however, reading the time via the central hour and minute hands, and the perpetual calendar month, via an ultra-compact central hand, will be difficult for sure.
The date is displayed in an oversized aperture at 3 o’clock, and small seconds are displayed in the subdial at 6. There is a leap year cycle indicator on movement side. A power reserve indicator displays the remaining power at 9 o’clock. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity (ref. 1800-0200) is limited to 50 pieces.
H. Moser & Cie’s new timepiece does not have “Swiss Made” on the dial as a protest by the manufacture, so to speak. As of 2017, the new legal requirement to use “Swiss Made” on a watch dial stipulates that 60% of the components must be made in Switzerland, up from 50%, however, because Moser produces 95% of each watch in Switzerland they think the new law is not strict enough. Admittedly, their argument is not without merit, as the new rules benefit the big conglomerates such as Swatch Group the most, as they can produce 60% of the watch in Switzerland and still maintain excellent profit margins whereas this is much harder for smaller scale operations.
That said, the eccentric nature of actions such as removing “Swiss Made” from the dial – and even the company logo has been removed in this instance – may cause confusion amongst consumers, at a critical time when the watch industry is struggling. To say this is a risky move would be an understatement, especially during a time when Swiss companies are incresingly consolidating and getting acquired. And Moser is surely an appealing acquisition target thanks to their significant in-house manufacturing capabilities.