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Jason Pitsch

HM7 Aquapod

Jason Pitsch

Last month at the SIHH trade show in Geneva, MB&F unveiled one of their craziest horological creations yet: the HM7 Aquapod. It is essentially their version of a dive watch. Although as you might expect, it is like no other dive watch you’ve ever seen. The HM7 Aquapod features a unique spherical construction with a 52.8 mm x 21.3 mm case crafted from either grade 5 titanium or 18K 5N red gold, with a massively domed sapphire crystal on the top, and a less domed sapphire crystal on the bottom. Most notably, there is a circular open space in between the main dial area of the watch the rotating bezel, which MB&F has dubbed a “floating” a bezel. The profile view clearly looks like a jellyfish! The inspiration for the watch was, of course, dive watches, but also a gelatinous

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Jason Pitsch

The Pocket Watch Paillonné

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2016, Jaquet Droz debuted this stunning pocket watch with a Paillonné dial in red Grand Feu enamel. The Paillonné technique consists of tucking a piece of foil - a “paillon” - between two layers of enamel. The gold foil pattern underneath hence shines through in a unique way. The Pocket Watch Paillonné is presented in a rather sleek 50 mm x 12.07 mm 18K red gold case with a gold chain. At the top of the dial, the hours and minutes are displayed via blued stainless steel hands on a small silvery-opaline dial. Just below is a much larger silvery-opaline dial with a blued seconds hand that continuously sweeps the dial. Inside is hand wound caliber 2615 which is visible through the sapphire window on that caseback, and that beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), has 20 jewels, is

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Jason Pitsch

Carl F. Bucherer Timepieces Featured in 'John Wick: Chapter 2'

Jason Pitsch

If you like action movies, and you have not seen the first John Wick movie, you need to see it. But don’t take my word for it – as the 2014 neo-noir action thriller received an 85% rating on Rotten Tomatoes. The movie starred Keanu Reeves in his first major title role in years. And he literally and figuratively killed it. This article titled “The Guns of John Wick” breaks down the epic list of every (real) weapon used in the movie, including an analysis of all the kills made. Like the guns, the watches were real, and for his role as John Wick, Reeves wore a Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate in steel with white dial and black alligator leather strap. For the second installment, which premiered yesterday in Los Angeles, he will again be wearing his signature Manero

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Jason Pitsch

Pre-Baselworld: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 38 mm

Jason Pitsch

The modern Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, which is based loosely on Fifty Fathoms models from the 1950s, was first presented in 2013, in a 43.60 mm diameter case, and available in stainless steel or ceramized titanium. Following that, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line was offered in a ceramic case, which we wrote about here and here. This year at Baselworld 2017, following the 38 mm diameter Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Revolution Special Edition that was presented last year in steel, Blancpain will further extend the line with a new three-hand 38 mm diameter brushed stainless steel model. It is worth noting that Blancpain has also previously produced a 38 mm diameter white Fifty Fathoms model for women that came out in 2013. This version is presumably marketed more towards men. And judging the from the feedback we have already read online,

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Jason Pitsch

The Lange 31 with Anthracite Gray Dial in White Gold

Jason Pitsch

The Lange 31 was launched in 2007 and was the first mechanical watch with a power reserve of 31 days (744-hours), a feat that might not appear that impressive, especially when you see the fairly simple dial. However, in reality developing a mechanical wristwatch with a month-long power reserve, and delivering the power uniformly over the entire period, was extremely complicated, and accordingly, the cost of a Lange 31 is over six-figures. Moreover, only a few other watch companies have been able to achieve such a feat. The Rebellion Prometheus with a 1000-hour power reserve and the Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari with a 1200-hour power reserve come to mind. Technically speaking, nothing has changed with the Lange 31 since its initial introduction in 2007. The Lange caliber L034.1, which uses a key to wind the mechanism on the caseback of the

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Jason Pitsch

REVIEW: TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 100th Anniversary Special Edition

Jason Pitsch

The first watch capable of measuring 1/100th of a second Invented by Charles-Auguste Heuer in 1916, the Mikrograph stopwatch (not designed to tell the time) was the first watch to measure elapsed time with 1/100th of a second precision, thanks to a chronograph mechanism that beats at 360,000 vibrations per hour (50Hz). Almost 90 years later, the modern version of the legendary Mikrograph was resurrected by TAG Heuer, based on the same idea of using a 360,000 vph chronograph mechanism, but this time combined with the ability to indicate the time as well. This represented the first of the 1/100th of second chronographs to use the dual balance movement design which separates the timekeeping regulation (28,8000 vph - 4Hz), power, and transmission – from the chronograph regulation (360,000 vph - 50Hz), mainspring, and transmission. And in 2005, when the Carrera

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 in stainless steel

Jason Pitsch

The world’s second largest annual watch trade show, SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève), took place last week in Geneva following a very tough year for the watch business in 2016. And so, not surprisingly, the watch introductions during the one week show were more conservative compared to recent years. There were more line updates and extensions, as opposed to all-new watches. More watches in stainless steel, as opposed to precious metals, than I can ever recall at this show. This is a good thing, as the two concerns we hear most often in the online community are related to price and case metal. Collectors want stainless steel watches and more reasonable pricing. The watch landscape (the way that watches are marketed from the products being made to how they are being communicated to the consumer), has changed

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Royal Oak Chronograph

Jason Pitsch

This year at SIHH, Audemars Piguet launched an entire refresh of their existing Royal Oak Chronograph line that includes new two-tone dials, inside the 41 mm diameter case. In total, there are eight new styles. Three stainless steel with steel bracelets, with a black on white, white and black and silver/gray on blue, four pink gold with either blue or brown dial on either gold bracelet or leather strap, and one titanium and platinum model with a blue on a gray dial. A Frederic Piguet 1185 caliber, referred to as AP caliber 2385 powers the line, as was the case in the past. The movement is an integrated vertical clutch actuated column wheel chronograph but it is made by Audemars Piguet’s Vallée de Joux neighbor, Frederic Piguet (which Blancpain bought out) because the phenomenal caliber 3120 with a chronograph module

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO

Jason Pitsch

Kari Voutilainen is a highly respected Finnish-born master watchmaker who has a small workshop in Môtiers, Switzerland that produces between 25 to 50 timepieces per year. From the beautiful guilloché dials to the three-part open-tipped hands, that Voutilainen is famous for, to the movement plate and bridges, all finishing is done by hand. Components such as jewels, mainsprings, sapphire crystals, and cases are outsourced, but most parts are made in-house, including the Voutilainen direct impulse escapement with two escape wheels, made of steel (for strength). The ingenious design provides a net energy gain of about 30% power in comparison to a traditional lever escapement, and so the power reserve is 65-hours instead of 50. The look of Voutilainen’s German silver three-quarter main plate and bridges – which are hand-finished to the highest haute horology standard – is arguably one of

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Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Limited Edition

This week, Longines announced a vintage-inspired timepiece called the Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Limited Edition that is based on the 1957s model called the “Flagship.” The case measures 38.5 mm, which is larger than the original 1957 model, but this is a perfect size for 2017, unlike the 2014 re-release of the Conquest, that is arguably a bit too small for modern tastes at 35 mm. Three metals are available: stainless steel (Ref. L4.817.4.76.2), limited to 1957 pieces, as well as 18K yellow (Ref. L4.817.6.76.2) and pink gold (Ref. L4.817.8.76.2) variants that are limited to 60 each. All three models have a silver dial, with a smooth center, and brushed, sloped, outer section, giving it a two-tone appearance. The Arabic numerals (at 12, 3, 6, and 9) and indexes are rose gold plated on the steel and pink gold watches,

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