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HYT H0 X Eau Rouge

The H0 x Eau Rouge, like the rest of the HYT H0 collection, has a proprietary liquid-filled hours display which uses two liquids, one red and one clear, and is pumped in and out by two bellows, which in turn lines up with the chapter ring to show the hour. Minutes are displayed on the subdial at 12 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, and the remaining power reserve (up to 65-hours) at 2 o’clock. Most interesting to me is the prominent box-domed sapphire that covers the entire front side of the watch and also acts as a bezel. From the side view, you can see a 24-hour military time scale that syncs up with the primary hour dial. These red themed versions (there are currently 6 other versions as well) feature a red fluid for the hours, crown, hands, power

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Jason Pitsch

Wempe makes cameo on "Billions"

Jason Pitsch

This past Sunday, on Episode 4 of Season 3 of Showtime’s hit show Billions, high-end New York City jewelry store, Wempe, made a pretty significant cameo. The aggressive CIO, Taylor Amber Mason, of fictional hedge fund firm Axe Capital, who is played by Asia Kate Dillon, walks into Wempe on Fifth Avenue and purchases a $164,000 Patek Philippe Reference 5270R Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in rose gold, for full price – without even trying it on! Then in the next scene at a meeting with the primary star of the show, the founder of Axe Capital, Bobby Axelrod (Damian Lewis), sees the 5270R on Taylor’s wrist, to which he says “nice piece!”

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Jason Pitsch

Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M

Jason Pitsch

For 2018, Omega has debuted a redesigned Seamaster Professional Diver 300M collection. Originally dating to 1993, the quirky 1990s styling has mostly remained intact. However, everything from the dial to the bezel to the movement has been completely revamped. Starting with a slightly larger 42 mm x 13.56 mm case (up from 41 mm), Omega has installed an updated ceramic bezel insert which now has a more durable diving scale in Ceragold or white enamel (the latter which reduces color fading). Like the bezel inserts, the dials are also made from polished ceramic and are available in a black, blue or PVD chrome color. Interestingly, Omega has reintroduced the original wavy pattern (which is now laser-engraved into the ceramic dial). The luminous indexes have been raised. The oversized skeleton hands (rhodium-plated, 18K gold, or blued) have been subtly reshaped. Even

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Jason Pitsch

Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44

Jason Pitsch

This year, along with redesigns for numerous models, Breitling introduced two new versions of the Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44. Apart from the pushers, crown, and tabs on the bezel, everything is completely satin-brushed, for a more understated look. And there are two new dial color combinations: blackeye blue and blackeye gray. The case measures 44 mm x 16.95 mm, feature a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel, a screwed caseback, and screw-down crown. The water-resistance rating is an impressive 500 meters. Inside is the automatic Breitling B01 caliber which beats at 4Hz, measures 30 mm x 7.2 mm, has 346 components, 47 jewels, a 70-hour power reserve, and is a COSC-certified chronometer. There is a not a whole lot new here, but I personally like the black on blue dial, and the satin-brushed matte finish is a nice change, for a company

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Jason Pitsch

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

Jason Pitsch

Unlike previous Dark Side of the Moon models, which have been powered by Omega’s advanced CO-Axial 9300 series movement, this watch houses a specially decorated version of Omega’s manually wound caliber 1861. Despite being an older design, based on Lemania (which Omega purchased), caliber 1861 is still being used in a number of important Speedmaster Moonwatch models. For this implementation in the Dark Side of the Moon, the movement has been visually enhanced to look like the moon’s surface, resulting in the new caliber 1869 designation. Laser ablation has been used to precisely decorate the bridges and main plate of the blackened movement, producing realistic imagery of the lunar surface. The movement also has blackened or matte screws, and a dark nickel coating on the wheels and balance wheel. Additionally, like the movement, the dial, which has been skeletonized,

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Jason Pitsch

Zenith Defy Zero-G

Jason Pitsch

Zenith’s new Defy Zero-G features a redesigned version of the company’s patented gyroscopic “Gravity Control” mechanism, and beats at high-rate of 5Hz, hence the “El Primero” designation. The Defy Zero-G is a relatively small watch at 44 mm x 14.85 mm, thanks to the miniaturization of the gyroscopic regulator, which has been reduced by 30% in size compared to previous iterations. Similar to how a marine chronometer works, this gyroscopic system ensures the regulating organs (balance wheel, balance spring, escapement) are always in the optimal horizontal position. Ideally, this should increase chronometric performance, much like a tourbillon is designed to do. This is a 5Hz high-beat El Primero movement, which allows for 1/10th of a second accuracy. However, while displaying the time with this level of precision is technically possible, this particular watch has a small seconds display at

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Jason Pitsch

Breitling adds to the Superocean Heritage II collection

Jason Pitsch

Breitling launched the redesigned Superocean Heritage II collection last year on the 60th anniversary of the original dive watch from 1957. For 2018 the line has been extended with three new 44 mm caliber B01 in-house powered chronographs (black/white, white/black, blue/white), two new 44 mm Tudor designed caliber B20 powered three-hand models (black and red gold, blue), and one new 42 mm B20 equipped three-hander in steel with a black dial and red gold bezel with black insert. There were also three new 44 mm ETA powered Superocean chronographs released this year. According to Breitling, “The unusual shape of the hands (triangular for the hours and lozenge-like for the minutes), along with the slightly cone-shaped hour markers, reinforces the ties today’s design has with its 1957 ancestor while ensuring optimal legibility, enhanced by luminescent markers.” The new steel and gold

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Jason Pitsch

Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

Jason Pitsch

This year Audemars Piguet introduced a new generation Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT, which is essentially a reworked version of the previous model, now with a “flying” tourbillon, meaning it’s supported only on one side (instead of two like a standard tourbillon). AP did a really good job with this watch. The contemporary aesthetic is clearly a departure from the classical (monotonous) haute horology finishes we’ve seen over and over, and that’s, of course, a good thing. This watch is bold without being ostentatious, thanks largely to the matte finished surfaces, such as the sandblasted titanium case, the vertical satin-brushed black ceramic bezel, and a general design theme that omits almost all shininess. At 9 o’clock you can view the new flying tourbillon, with its gold balance wheel and variable inertia weights, as it oscillates to and fro at

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 Limited Edition

Jason Pitsch

After the success of the Speedmaster CK 2998 Limited Edition with the white and blue dial in 2016, for 2018 Omega has produced another contemporary re-interpretation of the historic 1959 CK 2998. This time the dial is of the true Panda variety, meaning black subdials against a white dial (lightly sand-blasted silvery dial), which I’m sure will excite those who voiced opinions about the 2016 color choices. In place of the blue/white minute track and blue ceramic tachymeter bezel are a black/white minute track and black pulsometer bezel. Interestingly, “The pulsometer scale, which is used to check a person’s heartbeats per minute, has particular relevance to the CK 2998. With the original models, customers were able to choose from four different versions of the timing bezel (including tachymeter, pulsometer, decimal or telemeter). Therefore, this new model remains in-line with that

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2018: Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition

Jason Pitsch

Glashütte Original has taken the traditional perpetual calendar complication and put it inside a contemporary designed a watch with a unique skeletonized dial and layout. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition is presented in a 42 mm x 12.8 mm white gold case, powered by in-house automatic caliber 36-02, which measures 32.2 mm x 7.35 mm, beats at 4Hz, has 49 jewels, a variable inertia balance wheel with 4 gold regulation screws, and a silicon balance spring. The power reserve is an impressive 100-hours. Through the caseback, you can see the nicely finished movement which features polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, three-quarter plate/ balance cock/rotor with Glashütte stripes, beveled edges, and a skeletonized rotor 21K gold oscillation weight. Visible in the center of the openworked dial is the back of the mainplate which has an intricate guilloche decoration, with

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