Today, independent Biel/Bienne-based watch manufacture Armin Strom has released a new purple version of its Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire.
The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple is delivered in the same 41 mm x 12.65 mm (48.09 mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, with the same gray-toned sapphire crystal off-center dial and small seconds subdial, as the original version.
What’s new is the background of the openworked dial, which features a purple guilloché-engraved mainplate manufactured by Armin Strom then the guilloché-work is completed at the Voutilainen workshops. Using a rose engine lathe, operated by hand, the guilloché engraved motif is given an intricate repetitive barley grain pattern (and if the pressure or control of the operator’s hand is off, the entire dial has to be scrapped and started from scratch).
Horologically, the movement features a patented equal-force transmission integrated into the mainspring barrel, a power reserve indication, and a unique micro-rotor design. This represents the first automatic watch with an equal force transmission integrated directly into the mainspring barrel. Armin Strom says, “It provides consistent power transmission to the regulating organ, ensuring unwavering precision throughout the watch’s autonomy. The power reserve indicator forms part of the barrel, entirely visible from the dial side, opposite the micro-rotor with a unique click system featuring two springs for better-winding efficiency.”
Finishing is high-end, with bridge edges that are machine pre-beveled, then beveled to completion by hand, and finally polished to a mirror-finish by hand. Additional decorations include black polished screws, polished countersinks, perlage, and various types of graining (straight or circular), as well as Geneva stripes on the three-quarter bridge visible through the caseback.
“One of the Gravity Equal Force’s most distinctive elements is the triplet of dark grey ruthenium-plated bridges that occupy the right-hand portion of the open display. Inspired by the finger-style bridges found in pocket watches, it takes up to an entire day for these bridges to be embellished by hand. First, the undersides are given a matt finish, after which the sides are given a straight-graining finish by carefully sliding them on an abrasive paper to produce continuous, shimmering fine lines. Then, the inner and outer chamfers of the bridges are beveled with increasingly fine files and then finished with a flash polish using locally sourced gentian wood to remove even the finest lines. Finally, a straight-graining finish is applied to the top side for ultimate radiance,” according to Armin Strom.
The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple (Ref. AS/ID ST24-GEF.SA.AC.M.A7.FC) comes with a light gray nubuck leather strap with purple contrast stitching and keepers (available with a stainless steel pin buckle or folding clasp) and is limited to 25 pieces annually. The retail price is $28,900.
Learn more at Armin Strom.
Photos by Armin Strom.
