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Jason Pitsch

Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days

Jason Pitsch

Created by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee, the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days features a carbon fiber composite case, a completely new deep black dial, and a movement needing no lubrication for 50 years. The 49 mm carbon fiber case, referred to as Carbotech, has already been in use on previous models, such as the Luminor Submersible 1959 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic that we reviewed in 2015. The 49 mm Luminor 1950 case has the same dense, uneven black surface, which is composed of very thin sheets of carbon fibre are pressed together at a controlled temperature under very high pressure. What is all new, is the dial which is covered in carbon nanotubes, and the movement which works perfectly without any lubrication for 50 years, according to Panerai. The dial has Panerai’s the classic sandwich construction, with a generous

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Ceramic

Jason Pitsch

Thomas Mudge produced the oldest known perpetual calendar in 1762. Patek Philippe followed in 1925 with a perpetual calendar wristwatch based on a ladies’ pendant watch. Breguet created the first perpetual watch with a true wristwatch movement in 1929. However, it was not until 1955 that the leap year indication was brought to a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet in the reference 5516. Prior to that, all perpetual calendar mechanical wristwatches had the day, date, and month indications – not the leap year. Having said that, Audemars Piguet is clearly recognized as a leader and innovator in the Perpetual Chronograph field, however, it is not the perpetual calendar equipped caliber 5134 movement that is new. Although, it was in 2015, when the larger 41 mm perpetual calendars in steel and pink gold models were introduced, with the enlarged movement (based on

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2017: Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600

Jason Pitsch

After launching the most complicated pocket watch ever made in 2015, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin is at it again. Well, in this case, they have been at it for the past five years, which is the amount of time it took to develop their most complicated wristwatch ever – the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – that debuted today at SIHH. Incredibly, the renowned Swiss manufacture was able to fit 23 functions inside a 36 mm x 8.7 mm movement, ultimately resulting in a case measuring just 45 mm x 13.6 mm. And best of all, thanks to the unique twin-dial configuration, where the front and back both act as dials, the legibility of all the distinctive functions is quite good. Furthermore, to put it in context, caliber 3600 has 514 total components, 64 jewels, 6 power barrels,

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Zenith Heritage 146

Jason Pitsch

Today, Zenith introduced the Heritage 146, which is essentially the same watch they made for Hodinkee earlier this year, with a 38 mm diameter steel case (which is the same size as the case we selected in a comparison of the 42 mm vs. 38 mm El Primeros in 2014), an El Primero Caliber 4069 chronograph movement, no date function, and a retro design theme. What is different is that these are regular production models, with the option of a tropical brown or blue, sunray pattern dial (not gray), the movements are not COSC chronometer certified and so there is no “CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED” text on the dial at 6 o’clock, the crown is also different as it is now deeper and less wide whereas the Hodinkee version’s crown is wide and very flat. The only other difference is that there

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Jason Pitsch

I.N.O.X. Carbon

Jason Pitsch

The Victorinox Swiss Army I.N.O.X. watch collection – which is designed to withstand serious abuse – was originally introduced at Baselworld in 2014 in a 43 mm stainless steel case, powered by a Swiss made Ronda 715 quartz movement. For 2017, Victorinox has announced a new version with the same basic specs, including a 43 mm diameter case, a flat triple glare-proofed sapphire crystal that sits just below the bezel (armored), a locking crown, 200 meter water resistance, and so on. What’s new is the carbon composite case. Which, in my opinion, looks particularly badass, even if there is a battery inside. Additionally, the dial now features “Explorer” style numerals at 3, 6, and 9. And instead of printing the military chapter ring in red on the flange, it is now superimposed on the sapphire glass itself, which both looks

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Jason Pitsch

Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold

Jason Pitsch

The famous Royal Oak timepiece was first introduced by Audemars Piguet in 1972, exclusively in stainless steel. Following the now legendary model’s success, the first yellow gold version of the Royal Oak was produced in 1977. That model came in the same 39 mm “Jumbo” case as the original stainless steel reference 5402 “A series,” with the same Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 based automatic caliber 2121 movement inside. And like the stainless steel model is highly sought after on the vintage market. Fast forward to 2017, after a long hiatus – the classic yellow gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” has returned. And to mark the 40th Anniversary of the first precious metal version of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Le Brassus manufacture has created a new series of Royal Oak Extra-Thins in yellow gold. The 18K yellow gold “Jumbo” is available with

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Jason Pitsch

Grönefeld x Voutilainen 1941 Remontoire

Jason Pitsch

The Grönefeld brothers, Tim and Bart, have been friends with Kari Voutilainen since the early 1990s. According to Grönefeld, the two companies would often share booths at important watch fairs around the globe. And now they are officially collaborating together, by way of Voutilainen producing bespoke engine turned (guilloché) dials – two of which are shown here – for a limited number of Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire timepieces. Grönefeld is able to offer a wide array of color and pattern options for the dial, all featuring guilloché-work. And there is even an option to add enameling on top of the guilloché motif as well. The dials are made on a very old rose-engine that requires the expert skill of someone like Voutilainen, who is world renowned for producing this type of dial. Each dial can take up to two days to

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Omega Speedmaster Automatic with Master Chronometer certification

Jason Pitsch

This morning, after a very busy week for Omega, we received a preview of yet another new Speedmaster. Introducing the new Speedmaster Automatic with Master Chronometer certification. At first glance, you immediately notice the distinctive minute-track inspired by a 1968 Speedmaster model. The dial is matte black with orange marketing and bevelled 18K white gold arrowhead indexes that filled with white luminous material. The case is 44.25 mm in diameter, and according to Omega, thinner than previous versions – something we and others have been critical of in the past – thanks to work done on the sapphire crystal. The bezel is polished ceramic with a brushed Liquidmetal® tachymeter scale with orange text that reads “TACHYMETER” and that matches the color scheme which includes an orange varnished hour and minute hands, an orange tipped seconds hand, and orange squares marking

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Jason Pitsch

Hermès Slim d'Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Platinum

Jason Pitsch

As a follow-up to the previously released rose gold case/silver dial version of the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel, it will now be available in platinum with a metallic blue dial, following its official debut at Baselworld 2017 in March. Reading online you see a lot of talk about the typography used on the dial – that was created by Philippe Apeloig – because it is quite unique in an industry where duplicating other companies’ designs is more common than creating something original. That said, the movement inside, automatic caliber H1950, is manufactured by Vaucher for Hermès (Hermès has a 25% stake in Vaucher, which is majority owned by Parimigiani Fleurier). The perpetual calendar module is produced by Agenhor. While we have not seen this watch in person, in photos the new platinum model looks quite striking with its silvered

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Jason Pitsch

Omega Speedy Tuesday Anniversary Limited Edition Speedmaster

Jason Pitsch

The Speedmaster is Omega’s most iconic timepiece, best known as “The Moonwatch” for being on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin during the first NASA lunar landing in 1969. The model he wore, and numerous subsequent Speedmaster models, have garnered a huge fanatical following over the years. Five years ago in 2012, this following essentially got its own hashtag, #SpeedyTuesday, a term coined by Robert-Jan Broer, the founder of Fratellowatches, for use on social media sites such as Instagram. Fast forward to 2017, on the five-year anniversary of #SpeedyTuesday, Omega announced a limited edition Speedmaster Professional – based on the Alaska Project III that was created for NASA in 1978 – that pays tribute to the hashtag, and the followers who use it. And they responded with their checkbooks, so to speak, as you will read below. Defined by large radial

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