One of the most interesting introductions from Patek Philippe this year was the all-new Ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar, which we wrote about last month. Distinguished by its three-tiered lugs, which were inspired by historical Ref. 2405, the 5320 is powered by familiar automatic perpetual calendar movement – caliber 324 S Q.
Presented in a sleek 40 mm x 11.13 mm white gold case, with 21 mm interlug width, and a total lug-to-lug length of 47.98 mm, one thing remains the same, Patek Philippe’s ability to make not only complicated watches but to do so in the most elegant way. Patek Philippe is world-renowned for producing perpetual calendar timepieces, and this furthers that reputation.
Setting this watch apart from most of the company’s previous perpetual calendar wristwatches, are its Arabic numerals. The majority of historical references feature indexes, not numerals. Additionally, the applied numerals, hands, and cabochons are in blackened gold, which is a truly contemporary design choice. Further, enhancing the throwback theme is a “brass, cream-colored lacquer” dial and a “box-type” sapphire crystal. And although the official press release does not allude to it, the dial is reminiscent of a Ref. 1591, which has a similar layout, includes Arabic numerals, and even the same style of syringe-shaped hour and minute hands.
Patek Philippe in-house caliber 324 S Q, which measures 32 mm x 4.97 mm, has 367 parts, 29 jewels – is wound by a full size unidirectional 21K gold rotor and features a 45-hour power reserve. The 4Hz (28,8000 vph) movement measures 32 mm x 4.97 mm and consists of 367 components, 29 of which are jewels. The regulating assortment boasts a Gyromax balance wheel, Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar, and an adjustable balance spring stud. The rate is -3 to +2 seconds per day.
The 5320 dial has the same popular layout as many of the company’s past perpetual calendars, with the addition of a small round day/night aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock and a round aperture for the leap year cycle with Arabic numerals from 1 to 4 between 4 and 5 o’clock.
Verdict
Patek Philippe has created an incredibly appealing and highly collectible timepiece that will surely enhance their already stellar reputation in regards to perpetual calendar wristwatches. The Ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar is currently available in white gold and retails for a price of $82,784.
