How you do one thing, is how you do everything.

That would have been true of Rolex for the most part, until they introduced the Perpetual collection in 2023, with an all new 7100 caliber series, that offer the crown’s legendary high chronometric performance, but not in the same way most of its other products do.

Instead of purely utilitarian mechanical watch movements, made to be kept behind a closed caseback, uniquely, the Rolex Perpetual collection presents mechanical movements, that are meant to be seen, through an open sapphire back. Not to mention, the new caliber 7190, which is the subject of 30 patent applications, two which are exclusive to the watch, is Rolex’s most complex production movement yet.

Rolex caliber 7190

Featuring an instantaneous annual calendar complication and a high frequency 5Hz beat rate, caliber 7190 uses a patented system called Haplos to determine which months have 30 and 31 days, and requires a manual adjustment only once a year, in February. Furthermore, the day, date, and month jump forward simultaneously and instantaneously, at midnight (all four date functions are set by recessed pushers). Additionally, the Padellone features an enamel moonphase indicator, with a meteorite representing the moon, and displays the current phase of the moon.

Naturally, Rolex’s patented, state-of-the-art Dynapulse escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and ceramic balance staff, first seen in the Land-Dweller last year, are all present. And of course, Rolex designed this with longterm reliability and durability in mind, and in that regard, how they do one thing, is how they do everything.

2026 Rolex Padellone Dial

Aesthetically inspired by nostalgic 1940s and 1950s Rolex “Padellone” reference 8171 timepieces, the all-new Padellone dial is not a faithful representation (which purists may prefer) of the past, and instead is a resolutely modern interpretation, although you can clearly see the lineage.

2026 Rolex Padellone Case

Similarly, the 39 mm Oyster case is not exactly like the mid century Padellone, and instead features a retro-inspired modern Rolex Perpetual case, with a fluted bezel. It’s available in three references: 18K Everose gold, with a white dial on a brown alligator strap (Ref. 53505-0002), 18K Everose gold with a white dial on a 7-link 18K Everose gold Settimo bracelet (Ref. 53505-0003), and 950 platinum (Ref. 53506-0002), with an ice blue dial, on a black alligator leather strap. Retail starts at $59,000.

Final Thoughts

Like clockwork, Rolex unveils the vast majority of its new timepieces each year, at the annual Spring Swiss watch show, Watches and Wonders, in Geneva (previously in Basel), and so this is not typical for Rolex at all. (The last time Rolex went off schedule like this, was in the Winter of 2022, with the Deep Sea Challenge drop.)

The advanced Rolex 7140 caliber, that powers the Rolex Perpetual 1908, was launched in 2023, sans a Dynapulse escapement (it uses a Chronergy escaepement). The new 7190 caliber, however, utilizes Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement for the second time, since the introduction of the Land-Dweller in 2025, which is powered by Rolex caliber 7135.

While Rolex’s annual calendar is a major milestone for the brand, and its diehard collectors, per usual, it will likely be difficult to acquire. It’s important to note, that brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin (amongst many others) offer gorgeous annual calendars, that are finished to haute horology standards, at similar price points, and so those with deep pockets have a lot of good alternatives, if having Rolex on the dial is not a requirement.

Photos by Rolex.