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Baselworld

Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Omega Speedmaster Automatic with Master Chronometer certification

Jason Pitsch

This morning, after a very busy week for Omega, we received a preview of yet another new Speedmaster. Introducing the new Speedmaster Automatic with Master Chronometer certification. At first glance, you immediately notice the distinctive minute-track inspired by a 1968 Speedmaster model. The dial is matte black with orange marketing and bevelled 18K white gold arrowhead indexes that filled with white luminous material. The case is 44.25 mm in diameter, and according to Omega, thinner than previous versions – something we and others have been critical of in the past – thanks to work done on the sapphire crystal. The bezel is polished ceramic with a brushed Liquidmetal® tachymeter scale with orange text that reads “TACHYMETER” and that matches the color scheme which includes an orange varnished hour and minute hands, an orange tipped seconds hand, and orange squares marking

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Jason Pitsch

Hermès Slim d'Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Platinum

Jason Pitsch

As a follow-up to the previously released rose gold case/silver dial version of the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel, it will now be available in platinum with a metallic blue dial, following its official debut at Baselworld 2017 in March. Reading online you see a lot of talk about the typography used on the dial – that was created by Philippe Apeloig – because it is quite unique in an industry where duplicating other companies’ designs is more common than creating something original. That said, the movement inside, automatic caliber H1950, is manufactured by Vaucher for Hermès (Hermès has a 25% stake in Vaucher, which is majority owned by Parimigiani Fleurier). The perpetual calendar module is produced by Agenhor. While we have not seen this watch in person, in photos the new platinum model looks quite striking with its silvered

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2017: Breguet Tradition Dame 7038

Jason Pitsch

Well ahead of Baselworld 2017, which officially begins March 23rd, Swiss watchmaker Breguet has announced a new version of its Tradition Dame model. The Breguet Tradition Dame 7038 is presented in a 37 mm diameter 18K rose gold case that features a fluted caseband, a crown that is set with a watch movement ruby and welded lugs with screw bars. The entire case is polished and includes a bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds. As is the signature of the Tradition line, the haute horology movement is fully visible on the dial side. In the center, you can see the mainspring power barrel which is hand-engraved with a rosette motif. Overlapping the barrel at 12 o’clock is a natural white mother-of-pearl dial that is decorated with an engine turned “Clou de Paris” hobnailing pattern, and raised Arabic numerals. Rose gold

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Romain Gauthier Enraged collection

Jason Pitsch

Le Sentier, Switzerland-based independent watch company, Romain Gauthier, has unveiled two “Enraged” limited edition collections. The Logical One Enraged is a matte black version of the original Logical One that won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve men’s complicated prize in 2013. And the Prestige HMS Enraged is a matte black version of the Prestige HMS timepiece. Logical Enraged One Typically, a cone-shaped fusée is used with a chain to deliver constant torque, however, the Logical One has a snail cam instead, allowing for the mainspring barrel to be on the same level, and so the transmission of power is in a straight line and therefore more efficient. This also allows the chain links to be much larger and stronger. Furthermore, instead of a traditional chain, this chain uses ruby inserts to minimize friction. The result is not just a

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Jason Pitsch

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Schaffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie, is a company that is infamous for producing a watch that looks very similar to an Apple Watch, as well as for their CEO boldly writing an open letter to the President of the Swiss National Bank immediately following the rate policy change in January 2015, which negatively affected virtually all Swiss watch companies. Moser, as they are often referred to as, is also well known for their minimalist perpetual calendar wristwatches, powered by in-house manufactured movements. In fact, their perpetual calendar won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix “Complicated Watch” prize in 2006. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is one of the core timepiece collections at H. Moser & Cie and comes in 10 different variations. The version shown features a 40.8 mm x 11.1 mm polished rose gold case, with a silver-plated Argenté sunburst

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Jason Pitsch

Three new Rolex Yacht-Masters

Jason Pitsch

The highlight of the Yacht-Master collection at Rolex this year was the new 40 mm steel and Everose gold model, with a “Rolesor” case, which simply means a combination of 904L steel and 18K Everose gold. With that said, Rolex also quietly introduced a new dial on the steel and platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master as well. The new dial is dark rhodium (gray) and includes an aqua-blue lacquered seconds hand and printed text that reads “Yacht-Master” in the same shade of blue, which is notably similar to the color scheme of this new Oyster Perpetual that debuted at Baselworld 2015. Also, worth noting is that this gray dial platinum and steel Yacht-Master comes in both 40 mm and 37 mm variants. Despite the fact that the new steel and rose-gold Yacht-Master with the chocolate dial (Ref. 116621) has received the most

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Breitling Avenger Blackbird

With an aggressive blackened titanium case measuring 48 mm x 14.40 mm – and with a depth rating of 300 meters – the new Breitling Avenger Blackbird is essentially a larger, more robust version of the Avenger Blackbird 44. Both the 48 and 44 mm versions share the same design, same dial, and same automatic caliber 17 (ETA 2824) movement. The differences are in the case dimensions, weight, and water-resistance rating. The 48 mm model is 4 mm larger in diameter and 1.70 mm thicker, while weight has increased by 17.50 grams. With the additional size and weight, the Avenger Blackbird gains an additional 100 meters (or 328 feet) of water-resistance. The Avenger Blackbird, which we previously talked about here, comes with a sturdy military-type Teflon-coated black textile strap. (Ref. V1731010.BD12.100W) The retail price is $5105.

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Jason Pitsch

Girard-Perregaux Titanium Tourbillon Minute Repeater Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Girard-Perregaux released an interesting, ultra-light minute repeater at Baselworld 2016; the Limited Edition Titanium Tourbillon Minute Repeater. Its titanium case measures (45 mm x 9.35 mm), and is not only significantly lighter than the 18K gold version, it also has better sound resonance – thanks to the use of titanium – which is crucial to any minute repeater. Further, a unique, open-worked dial and mainplate, offer an incredible view into the Tourbillon Minute Repeater movement, without needing to turn the watch over. Of course, the back is a site to be seen as well. The hours and minutes are indicated on the titanium outer ring, marked with pink gold indexes for the hours, which contrasts nicely with the matte titanium finish, and dots for the minutes. The hour and minute hands are in pink gold as well and have been

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Jason Pitsch

Visconti Abyssus Scuba Urban Camo Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Since 1988, Florence-based penmaker Visconti has been producing high-quality writing instruments. And after over 25 years crafting writing instruments in Florence, at Baselworld 2014, the company launched a timepiece collection to complement their assortment of fountain pens, rollers, and ball-pens. The Abyssus professional dive watch collection was the first collection, and according to the company they have, “won the approval of such professional experts as the CNS, Italy’s National Diver Centre, forging close professional ties with the centre in the development of its monobloc Scuba Abissus 3.000 mt. watch, with two patents currently pending.” We visited Visconti’s at Baselworld 2016 for the first time, and from a technical perspective, their 3000 meter dive watches were the most interesting. The Abyssus Scuba Urban Camo collection, in particular, stood out due to its rugged military aesthetic, and unique professional locking dive crown

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Jason Pitsch

Prospex Marinemaster GPS Solar Dual-Time Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

The Prospex Marinemaster GPS Solar Dual-Time, unveiled at Baselworld 2016, is the first Seiko, other than the Astron, to utilize Seiko’s unique GPS Solar timekeeping technology. Crafted in corrosion resistant titanium, the Marinemaster case and bracelet feature a super-hard coating to protect against impacts. The case measures 48.5 mm x 14.7 mm and is topped by a highly durable fixed ceramic bezel. The two-tone bezel is bright white on the top (with the numeric UTC codes in blue), and bright blue on the flange (with the 40 world time cities engraved in white). The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with push button release, with a secure lock and slide adjuster. A screw-down crown and caseback ensure a water-resistance of 200 meters. The crown features white ceramic crown guards. The sapphire crystal has been coated inside and out with a super-clear

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