Leica cameras and lenses are legendary — and the Leica Q is the go-to camera for wealthy jetset watch collectors.
Interestingly, the Q series are excellent all-purpose and travel cameras but offer subpar performance for watch photography due to geometric distortion (particularly the 28 mm versions) and a lack of high magnification (2:1, 1:1, 1:2 to get close up shots). Yet, the proposition makes sense because watch collecting largely revolves around paying high premiums for build quality and brand name, not performance per se.
This brings me to Leica watches. I’ve been reading about them since 2018, and while Professional Watches declined requests from Leica to cover them back then, the latest Leica ZM 12 watch represents a significant improvement over the original L1 and L2 timepieces.
The intricate sunburst finishing of the dial with the deep hand applied indices, the finely circular brushed case, and the specially designed toolless strap system, all look good.
In particular, the 60-hour power reserve automatic caliber LA-3002 movement, that leaves the factory adjusted to -4/+6 seconds per day — made for Leica by Swiss manufacture Chronode — is an attractive alternative to many watch movements available at this $6,500+ price point. But is that alone enough to compete?
Leica undoubtedly went the high-quality route with the ZM 12, as they should considering the luxury positioning of its photography products. However, in an industry with seemingly infinite brands, there will always be far more watches produced than customers will consume, so adding yet another watch brand is a risky proposition at best.
Two other brands that come to mind when I think of Leica watches — that have a similar marketing dilemma — are Ralph Lauren and Porsche Design. All three companies have attempted to build watch brands using the reputation of their respective core products — cameras, cars, and clothing.
This has proven problematic because you cannot enter the watch market casually and expect to compete against 100-year-old companies that dedicate everything to the art of making watches — especially at the prices these luxury companies expect to command.
Leica watches are German-designed, with Swiss-made movements, and presumably German case manufacturing, assembly, and testing (some construction details are unclear). What’s clear is that Leica has upped its quality yet is still facing a monumental challenge. Will wealthy, highly educated consumers buy a Leica ZM 12 watch over timepieces from Swiss leaders such as IWC, TAG Heuer, or Omega?
Learn more at Leica.
Photos by Leica.
