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Jason Pitsch

LM1 Final Edition Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Six years after the launch of the Legacy Machine N°1 (LM1), MB&F has announced the LM1 Final Edition. Consisting of round cases, white lacquer dials, Roman numerals, and traditional finishing – the Legacy Machines contrast the signature eccentric designs of MB&F’s Horological Machines. The LM1, produced with the help of Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, represented three world firsts: a suspended flying balance wheel, fully independent dual time displays, and a vertical power reserve indicator, according to MB&F. Over the six years since the initial LM1, approximately 435 LM1s have been manufactured, in gold, platinum, and titanium; with dials in blue, gray, and green. And now, MB&F presents the final LM1 in stainless steel, a first (and last) for the LM1. Additionally, the dial color, brown, is new. Moreover, the LM1 Final Edition has a new balance bridge, cambered and

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Big Bang Unico Depeche Mode

Hublot and Depeche Mode have been partners since 2010 and have supported charity: water on three other occasions since 2013. In 2017, ahead of their upcoming Global Spirit Tour, Hublot has created a 250 piece limited edition watch to celebrate the band’s new album Spirit. The sale of the watch will raise funds for charity: water, a non-profit organization whose mission is to bring clean and safe drinking water to people in developing countries. The new Big Bang Unico Depeche Mode is presented in a 45 mm x 16.30 mm knurled and polished black ceramic case, with a knurled and polished black ceramic bezel, knurled black-plated titanium crown and pushers, and a polished black ceramic sapphire crystal caseback. The watch features a matte black skeleton Unico automatic caliber HUB1242 movement that beats at 4Hz, has 330 parts, 38 jewels, a

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Jason Pitsch

TAG Heuer Autavia Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

You have probably already read about the new Autavia, which is part of TAG Heuer Heritage collection. Following the 2016 introduction of the Monza, and the Carrera Calibre 18 the previous year, the Autavia is the timepiece that carries the coveted “Heuer” throwback logo for 2017. Compared to the original 1966 Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3 Rindt that this modern re-edition Autavia is very closely based on, the case has grown from 39 mm to 42 mm, and it is thicker as well, which many vintage collectors may not like, however, those looking for a modern version of the Autavia, and that don’t get too hung up on a few millimeters, this is a great choice. Instead of a Valjoux 72, the watch is powered by TAG Heuer’s latest manufacture chronograph, boasting a column wheel and vertical clutch for

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Jason Pitsch

Destination Moon by MB&F + L’Epée 1839

Jason Pitsch

MB&F’s latest collaboration, Destination Moon, is a table clock that looks like a rocket ship, made with the help of L’Epée 1839, and revealed last month at Baselworld. It is hard to imagine any watch collector that would not want one of these displayed on their desk or shelf, or really any of the collaboration clocks, such as the Melchior Robot Table Clock, the Arachnophobia Mechanical Clock, or the Nixie Machine by Frank Buchwald. The Destination Moon clock is 15.75” tall (40 cm) and features 237 finely finished parts within the vertically-stacked movement, which displays hours and minutes on two revolving horizontal rings. The mechanism, produced by the clock experts at L’Epée 1839 is regulated by a lateral balance wheel and escapement. It is powered by manually winding the oversized thruster (crown) at the base of the rocket, and can

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Jason Pitsch

The Rolex Sea-Dweller Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

One of the most newsworthy Rolex introductions from 2017 was surely the new 43 mm diameter Sea-Dweller. The 2017 Sea-Dweller features the next generation Rolex 3235 caliber automatic, that has a 70-hour power reserve and is a so-called Superlative Chronometer with impressive -2/+2 precision after being cased up. A new ceramic bezel with numerals and graduations coated in platinum resists scratches. Water-resistance is 1220 meters (4000 feet), along with an escape valve, which is nowhere near the superfluous depth rating of the 44 mm diameter Deep Sea, but it is more than enough for any professional diving needs, and it does so in a smaller 43 mm diameter case. Moreover, at $11,350 it is less than the Deep Sea. (Ref. 126600) Learn more at PW or at Rolex.

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Jason Pitsch

Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

As a follow up to the redesigned Mille Miglia XL Race Edition Chronograph that was introduced in 2016, this year Chopard redesigned the smaller 39 mm and 42 mm models within the related Classic Chronograph collection. The men’s Classic Chronograph 42 mm edition has an all-new case with a new crown, new pushers, and new lugs. The font for the numbers has been updated along with an open caseback. The lady’s Classic Chronograph 39 mm has received similar changes. His and Hers Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs (42 mm and 39 mm) The cases for the men’s versions measure 42 mm x 12.67 mm, which is a bit thicker than the 12.31 mm height of outgoing models. The lady’s timepieces measure 39 mm x 11.83 mm. All of the watches are equipped with an automatic 4Hz chronometer movement that measures 28.60

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Jason Pitsch

Baselworld 2017: Zenith Defy El Primero 21

Jason Pitsch

Zenith launched an all-new El Primero watch and movement under the “Defy” moniker at Baselworld 2017, and despite the fact that the aesthetics of the timepiece have been a polarizing topic of discussion amongst the watch community (due to the resemblance to Hublot), it is the horological importance of the movement that is sure to impress those that are serious about watchmaking. The Defy El Primero 21 borrows its movement architecture from its LVMH sibling TAG Heuer’s Mikrograph – which we did an in-depth review of last year – but this is not merely a shared caliber that has been aesthetically changed to fit another brand. There have been significant technical changes, which we will discuss below, and that foreshadowing what the future may hold for the venerable Le Locle-based watchmaker. Presented in either a brushed titanium or black ceramized

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Jason Pitsch

The History of the Breguet Type XX

Jason Pitsch

Overview Wristwatches have a rich history in aviation, and by the time World War II started (1939), soldiers and aviators used wristwatches – more than pocket watches – to calculate everything from flight time to artillery distances to longitude to troop movements. B-uhr, Navitimer & GMT Master In (1941), Lange & Sohne, who was the primary supplier of wristwatches to German combat pilots, could not deliver enough watches to fill the demand. So, the German government demanded five manufacturers to build B-uhr (“Beobachtungs-uhr” or “Pilot”) watches which were anti-magnetic, highly legible, and able to be chronometer certified. The five companies who produced the original pilot watches are IWC, Lange & Söhne, Laco, Wempe, and Stowa. 1911 Breguet biplane aeroplane Type R.U1 No.40. located at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, Paris Over a decade later, Breitling launched the Navitimer in

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Jason Pitsch

The Pocket Watch Paillonné

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2016, Jaquet Droz debuted this stunning pocket watch with a Paillonné dial in red Grand Feu enamel. The Paillonné technique consists of tucking a piece of foil - a “paillon” - between two layers of enamel. The gold foil pattern underneath hence shines through in a unique way. The Pocket Watch Paillonné is presented in a rather sleek 50 mm x 12.07 mm 18K red gold case with a gold chain. At the top of the dial, the hours and minutes are displayed via blued stainless steel hands on a small silvery-opaline dial. Just below is a much larger silvery-opaline dial with a blued seconds hand that continuously sweeps the dial. Inside is hand wound caliber 2615 which is visible through the sapphire window on that caseback, and that beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), has 20 jewels, is

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Jason Pitsch

Extract: IWC 18K Pink Gold Dress Watch with Shark Fin Lugs

Jason Pitsch

This is an International Watch Co dress watch from 1960, featuring an elegant 36 mm diameter 18K pink gold case with unique “shark fin” lugs. The ivory colored dial is slightly curved and has applied pink gold Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, 9 – with two baton hour indices in between each numeral. The outer chapter ring features pink gold dots. Pink gold lance-shaped hour and minute hands indicate the time along with a baton-shaped central second hand. “International Watch Co.” is printed in black on the dial in a vintage cursive font at twelve. Setting the time and winding the movement is controlled by the flat, ridged, 18K pink gold crown. The caseback is solid, curved, polished, and unsigned. The in-house IWC Schaffhausen manufactured manually wound caliber 89 movement – which was used in multiple 1950s and 1960s

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