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Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

The History of the Breguet Type XX

Jason Pitsch

Overview Wristwatches have a rich history in aviation, and by the time World War II started (1939), soldiers and aviators used wristwatches – more than pocket watches – to calculate everything from flight time to artillery distances to longitude to troop movements. B-uhr, Navitimer & GMT Master In (1941), Lange & Sohne, who was the primary supplier of wristwatches to German combat pilots, could not deliver enough watches to fill the demand. So, the German government demanded five manufacturers to build B-uhr (“Beobachtungs-uhr” or “Pilot”) watches which were anti-magnetic, highly legible, and able to be chronometer certified. The five companies who produced the original pilot watches are IWC, Lange & Söhne, Laco, Wempe, and Stowa. 1911 Breguet biplane aeroplane Type R.U1 No.40. located at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, Paris Over a decade later, Breitling launched the Navitimer in

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Jason Pitsch

The Pocket Watch Paillonné

Jason Pitsch

At Baselworld 2016, Jaquet Droz debuted this stunning pocket watch with a Paillonné dial in red Grand Feu enamel. The Paillonné technique consists of tucking a piece of foil - a “paillon” - between two layers of enamel. The gold foil pattern underneath hence shines through in a unique way. The Pocket Watch Paillonné is presented in a rather sleek 50 mm x 12.07 mm 18K red gold case with a gold chain. At the top of the dial, the hours and minutes are displayed via blued stainless steel hands on a small silvery-opaline dial. Just below is a much larger silvery-opaline dial with a blued seconds hand that continuously sweeps the dial. Inside is hand wound caliber 2615 which is visible through the sapphire window on that caseback, and that beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), has 20 jewels, is

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Jason Pitsch

Extract: IWC 18K Pink Gold Dress Watch with Shark Fin Lugs

Jason Pitsch

This is an International Watch Co dress watch from 1960, featuring an elegant 36 mm diameter 18K pink gold case with unique “shark fin” lugs. The ivory colored dial is slightly curved and has applied pink gold Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, 9 – with two baton hour indices in between each numeral. The outer chapter ring features pink gold dots. Pink gold lance-shaped hour and minute hands indicate the time along with a baton-shaped central second hand. “International Watch Co.” is printed in black on the dial in a vintage cursive font at twelve. Setting the time and winding the movement is controlled by the flat, ridged, 18K pink gold crown. The caseback is solid, curved, polished, and unsigned. The in-house IWC Schaffhausen manufactured manually wound caliber 89 movement – which was used in multiple 1950s and 1960s

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Jason Pitsch

F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Originally introduced in 2009, the Chronometre Bleu has become a best-seller at F.P. Journe. This is a time only watch that is highlighted by its mystical “chrome blue” dial, which as you can see from the images, reflects light in a way that it appears bright blue to dark blue depending on the viewing angle. The simplistic “chrome blue” dial features Journe’s signature hour and minute hands in white, along with white printed Arabic numerals, and a snailed finish small seconds counter (at 7 to 8 o’clock), with a white hand and a large open circle counterweight. The small seconds subdial has a bevelled edge and a snailed surface, and notably takes up a portion of the space where the hour markers are positioned so to accommodate this the designer made the two adjacent Arabic numerals, slightly smaller. This throws

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Jason Pitsch

Photo Report: Tudor Pelagos LHD

Jason Pitsch

The newly launched Tudor Pelagos LHD (Left-Hand Drive), is fundamentally the same as the existing Tudor Pelagos line, but with a modified version of the existing movement that has the crown moved to the left side of the case (which makes it a so-called left-hand watch). To do so, Tudor re-worked the movement and the case accordingly. In doing so, they also made a few other subtle changes, namely the lume which is now a beige color, a roulette (red/black alternating numerals) date wheel, “PELAGOS” dial text in red, and for the first time since the Marine Nationale models that were produced for the French Navy in the 1970s, Tudor offers a numbered edition. As someone that is right-hand dominant (and that wears my watch on the left-hand), the Tudor Pelagos feels like the current right-hand Pelagos model, but with

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Jason Pitsch

F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

In 2013, F.P. Journe introduced the Octa Quantième Perpétuel, replacing the Octa Calendrier – which has an annual calendar complication – effectively making that a collector’s piece. The new design includes a more sophisticated perpetual calendar complication – that adjusts for the difference in the number of days for every month without any need for an adjustment – whereas an annual calendar needs a manual adjustment in February. Further, the perpetual calendar automatically adjusts every fourth year (leap year), for the extra day in February. This mechanism will maintain mechanical memory until the year 2100. The hidden month/leap year corrector retracted from underneath the lug There are a few features worth highlighting that distinguish the Quantième Perpetual from most other perpetual calendars. First, all calendar functions (day, date, month), have an instantaneous jump when the day changes. Second, simultaneous correction

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Jason Pitsch

Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition with new fume dial Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Featuring an annual calendar complication, a chronograph, and a fume dial – the El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition makes Zenith’s often forgot about annual calendar chronograph worth remembering. Specifically, the new brown-gold fume dial – contrasted by rhodium-plated applied Arabic hour numerals and rhodium-plated hour, minute, and second hands – transforms the watch into quite the stunner. Apart from the dial, this El Primero Annual Calendar is the same as previous models, with a 42 mm x 13.85 mm polished stainless steel case, an exhibition caseback, and powered by automatic caliber 4054. Running at 5Hz, the 30 mm x 8.3 mm El Primero movement consists of 29 jewels and 341 total components, and has a 50-hour power reserve. The annual calendar function, also called a “complete calendar” keeps the date set with only one adjustment needed per year

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Jason Pitsch

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Last Thursday, Zenith announced a special edition co-branded timepiece with Range Rover, available in two versions, one with a beige strap and the other with a dark blue strap, which we reported on here. And this past Monday, Jean-Claude Biver, (who is the Head of LVMH’s watch division, the interim-CEO of TAG Heuer, and an LVMH board member), travelled from Switzerland, along with Land Rover head of design, Gerry McGovern, to officially launch the new timepiece to New York press. As part of the event, which took place at the New York Edition Hotel, artist, Carlito Dalceggio, painted a number of Range Rover body parts that had been flown in from the London. Gerry McGovern and Jean-Claude Biver unveiling the new El Primero Range Rover Special Edition During the unveiling, Biver and McGovern, made it clear that this is a

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Jason Pitsch

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Hands-On

Jason Pitsch

Schaffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie, is a company that is infamous for producing a watch that looks very similar to an Apple Watch, as well as for their CEO boldly writing an open letter to the President of the Swiss National Bank immediately following the rate policy change in January 2015, which negatively affected virtually all Swiss watch companies. Moser, as they are often referred to as, is also well known for their minimalist perpetual calendar wristwatches, powered by in-house manufactured movements. In fact, their perpetual calendar won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix “Complicated Watch” prize in 2006. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is one of the core timepiece collections at H. Moser & Cie and comes in 10 different variations. The version shown features a 40.8 mm x 11.1 mm polished rose gold case, with a silver-plated Argenté sunburst

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Jason Pitsch

Three new Rolex Yacht-Masters

Jason Pitsch

The highlight of the Yacht-Master collection at Rolex this year was the new 40 mm steel and Everose gold model, with a “Rolesor” case, which simply means a combination of 904L steel and 18K Everose gold. With that said, Rolex also quietly introduced a new dial on the steel and platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master as well. The new dial is dark rhodium (gray) and includes an aqua-blue lacquered seconds hand and printed text that reads “Yacht-Master” in the same shade of blue, which is notably similar to the color scheme of this new Oyster Perpetual that debuted at Baselworld 2015. Also, worth noting is that this gray dial platinum and steel Yacht-Master comes in both 40 mm and 37 mm variants. Despite the fact that the new steel and rose-gold Yacht-Master with the chocolate dial (Ref. 116621) has received the most

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