The Chopard Manufacture, which is based in Fleurier, Switzerland, marks its 20th anniversary this year. To celebrate, Chopard has launched its first L.U.C. watch with a dual-time function: the L.U.C. GMT One.
The GMT One simultaneously displays the local and home time – controlled by separate crowns – as well as a 24-hour time (day/night) via a rotating ring. The crown at 2 o’clock controls the local time and date, and the crown at 4 o’clock controls the second time zone (which is designated orange arrow-tipped hour hand) as well as the rotating 24-hour outer chapter ring. The 24-hour ring displays nighttime hours on the half that is black with orange transferred numbers, and daytime hours on the half that’s slate gray with white transferred numbers.
The case of the watch measures 42 mm x 11.71 mm and comes in stainless steel or 18K rose gold. Each case has a polished bezel and caseback, and a vertical satin-brushed case middle. The two partly satin-brushed
stainless steel or rose gold crowns (6.50 mm each), are emblazoned with the L.U.C logo at 2 o’clock and a globe motif at 4 o’clock. An exhibition caseback offers a view of the in-house L.U.C. movement. Water resistance is 50 meters.
The caliber L.U.C 01.10-L movement is automatic and beats at a rate of 4Hz (28,800 vph). There are a total of 291 components, 31 jewels, the movement measures 31.90 mm x 5.95 mm, with a power reserve of 60 hours, and is COSC chronometer certified. Its components are all chamfered and its bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, including the oscillating weight which has been skeletonized.
The dial of the steel model features a black satin-brushed sunburst pattern in the center with a snailed inner chapter ring that has indices and Arabic numerals in white luminescent paint to indicate the hours, with a white transferred railway minute track. Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hour and minute hands, with luminescent paint, and a rhodium-plated baton-type central seconds hand, display the local time. The GMT disc features circular satin-brushed, with slate-gray colored between 6.30 am and 6.30 pm; and black between 6.30 pm and 6.30 am. The large orange baton-type hand for the GMT function has luminescent paint on the tip.
For the rose gold version, the dial matching the case is surrounded by a half brown, half silver ring, to distinguish between daytime and night-time. The center of the dial is satin-brushed with a brown sunburst finish. The outer ring is circular satin-brushed with the 24-hour markings, that are silver-toned between 6.30 am and 6.30 pm; and brown between 6.30 pm and 6.30 am. Dauphine-type gilt hours and minutes hands with luminescent paint, along with a gilt baton central second hand, display the local time.
A gold-toned baton-type hand for the GMT function, with an arrow that is painted with luminescent material, indicates the home time.
The L.U.C GMT One comes with an alligator leather strap with alligator leather lining and a pin buckle matching the metal of the case. The starting retail price is $9,500 in stainless steel. (Ref. 168579-3001 – in stainless steel, 161943-5001 – in 18K rose gold)
Photos by Chopard.