At Watches and Wonders 2024, Swiss watchmaker Moser debuted a time-only Streamliner with a skeletonized movement that puts the brand’s many talents on display.
The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring comes in a 40 mm x 12.1 mm cushion case with a unique no-lugs integrated bracelet structure and a tapered bracelet with distinctive arcs that follow the wrist curves resulting in an eye-catching and ergonomic design. Moser says the bracelet is, “Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines based on organic forms. “
With such a bespoke case and bracelet, Moser naturally needed something special inside, and the caliber HMC 814 does not disappoint. From the fully skeletonized (see-through) 32 mm x 5.5 mm movement, the unusual automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, the fully skeletonized gold oscillating weight, the original double hairspring (which improves timekeeping – though no accuracy results have been provided), the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with a skeletonized bridge, and the mainplate and bridges with anthracite finishes — Moser put a lot into making this one stand out.
This seemingly simple hours and minutes wristwatch — which beats at 3Hz, has 167 components, 28 jewels, and a 72-hour power reserve — is anything but simple. With the full skeletonization, the special double hairsprings that are produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company Precision Engineering AG, and the distinctive cushion case and arced integrated bracelet, there’s a lot to like.
That said, it’s worth noting that according to the press release, the mainplate and bridges are diamond machine beveled, with no mention of hand finishing or polishing of the edges. This is not as desirable as hand-beveled and polished angles.
Being fully skeletonized the 5N red gold-plated faceted indices have been attached directly to the remaining portion of the dial/the mainplate. The hour and minute hands are also 5N red gold plated, with Globolight® inserts. The tourbillon is a 60-second design so while you do not have anything that acts as a hand you do effectively have a running-second display — that will look great as it rotates and oscillates.
The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring (Ref. 6814-1200) is water-resistant to 120 meters and retails for $86,900.
Photos by Moser.
