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SIHH 2018: Ulysse Nardin Deep Dive Hammerhead Shark

Presented in an imposing 46 mm titanium case, the Deep Dive Hammerhead Shark comes with a unique removable crown guard (reminiscent of the oversized guard seen on Panerais). This 300 piece limited edition has Hammerhead Sharks all over the watch, 15 in total, including one engraved and then red lacquered on the titanium crown, another embossed on the caseback, and then 13 more in a pattern that makes it look like they are swimming on the dial. With professional dive specs such as a 1000 meter water-resistance rating, a screw-down crown with removable guard, a screw-in caseback, and a screw-down helium escape valve (at 9 o’clock) – this dive watch can go virtually anywhere. The large rotating bezel has 12-notched teeth for easy manipulation, even with diving gloves. And the strap automatically expands using a spring based on water depth.

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Jason Pitsch

A Baume with a 120-Hour Power Reserve?

Jason Pitsch

The launch of the new Baumatic caliber BM12-1975A reminds me of when the Tissot debuted the Powermatic 80 in 2013. At the time 80-hours was a huge power reserve, especially for a watch costing under $1,000. Five years later, while the price is higher, the Baumatic comes with a 50% larger power reserve (120-hours), higher accuracy (COSC chronometer level -4/+6), higher quality components, a more advanced free-sprung balance wheel, silicon hairspring, significantly better finishing, and so on. The caliber beats at a modern rate of 4Hz (28,800 vph), has 21 jewels, is anti-magnetic to 1500 gauss, and has a design similar to an ETA 2824, although the Baume caliber is a bit wider and thinner than the ETA. Naturally, Baume can design future movements with added functionality around this ValFleurier manufactured 5-day movement. Not to mention, since ValFleurier is owned

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2018: Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa collection

Jason Pitsch

This year Parmigiani Fleurier debuted a new, more refined version of their Kalpa. The tonneau-shaped watch collection has been a signature of the company since its introduction in 2001. For SIHH 2018, the Fleurier-based watchmaker launched three models: the Kalpa Chronor, Kalpagraphe Chronomètre, and Kalpa Hebdomadaire. All pieces are highlighted by shaped movements designed just for the proportions of the case. And as you would expect if you know about Parmigiani, each movement features exquisite finishing seen only on the very best timepieces. From the 22K gold oscillating weight (in the automatic models) that is adorned with Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature barley grain motif, to the perfectly chamfered and polished bridges, to the polished jewel sinks, the movements are about as luscious as you can get. The tonneau case with its tear-shaped lugs has been reshaped resulting in better ergonomics and

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Jason Pitsch

Introducing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection

Jason Pitsch

When I think of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the first thing that comes to mind is the Reverso, their most well-known collection. Then I think about their movement production capabilities, which have earned them the nickname “the Grand Maison,” or their magnificent Atmos clock line which uses changes in atmospheric pressure for power. But as far as wristwatches no single Jaeger collection truly stands out – in my opinion – other than the Reverso. The much loved Le Sentier based manufacture is clearly aiming to change that with the introduction of the all-new Polaris that takes one of their most iconic watches – the Memovox Polaris from 1968 – and builds an entire collection, including a new case and dial design, around it. The resulting Polaris collection comprises five models: a three-hand automatic, a chronograph, a chronograph world time, an automatic date, and

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2018: Royal Oak "Jumbo" in Titanium and Platinum

Jason Pitsch

Audemars Piguet is at a point where they don’t really need to sell newness in the way many of their competitors do. Their iconic Gerald Genta designed A-Series Royal Oak “Jumbo” from 1972 is so well designed that they’ve left it alone for the most part. Today, however, they’ve done something exciting, without really doing a whole lot. They have taken their current 15202ST line (the stainless steel Jumbo), which has the same dimensions as the original at 39 mm x 8.01 mm and produced it in a titanium case and bracelet with a polished platinum bezel and bracelet links. Plus, they created a stunning new smoked blue “Petite Tapisserie” pattern dial, which is a mixture of dark blue and black hues, combined with white gold applied hour-markers and luminescent Royal Oak hands. Driving the hours, minutes, and date is

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2018: Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Jason Pitsch

Armin Strom has taken their innovative Mirrored Force Resonance technology and created a second movement presented in a new watch collection called: Pure Resonance. Previously available in a case measuring 43.4 mm x 13 mm, the new Pure Resonance has been reduced in size to 42 mm x 12 mm, which was achieved mostly by reducing the bezel and case band thickness. The result is a watch with almost no bezel. The dial now has two subdials, one for hours and minutes, and the other is a true small seconds subdial. The main hours and minutes dial has silver or gold Lance-shaped hands with silver or gold printed Roman numerals with a white railroad minute track, on either a blue or black sunburst dial. The small seconds display feature a snailed dial in blue or black, with a baton hand

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SIHH 2018: Christophe Claret Maestro Mamba

The Maestro Mamba is a new version of the Maestro that was introduced last year by Christophe Claret. This new version has a titanium case that measures the same 42 mm x 16.06 mm, topped with a massively domed sapphire crystal, and powered by the same hand wound movement which beats at 3Hz, has 346 components, 33 jewels, and a 168-hours (thanks to two series- coupled barrels). Distinguished by Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges, with 26 interior angles, a signature of Christophe Claret, the movement is now matte black which makes the green or orange hand-engraved mamba snake body that is coiled around the movement really stand out. Like last year’s Maestro model this one has a memo function that allows the wearer to press a pusher that in turn rotates the cone located between 3 and 4 o’clock,

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2018: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch

Jason Pitsch

At an unbelievably thin (2 mm), the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. And while it is only a concept, the design features will be commercialized for use in future production models. Piaget already announced the world’s thinnest automatic watch (4.30 mm), which is undoubtedly impressive, last month. But this watch is less than half that at a mind-blowing (2 mm) which is only a hair thicker than a nickel which is (1.95 mm). To give some additional perspective, the watch is not much thicker than the leather strap attached to it (1.1 mm). Of course, when you make a thin watch, the weight typically goes down too, and in this instance, the 41 mm diameter case is crafted from a cobalt-based alloy that weighs a total of 21 grams. Comparatively, most mechanical watches weight around

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SIHH 2018: Neo Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton

Ahead of SIHH 2018, Girard-Perregaux released a preview of one of their complication new timepieces: the Neo Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton. Presented in a titanium case measuring 45 mm in diameter, and 15.85 mm thick, the case has no bezel, just a domed sapphire covering the entire dial side. This plus the box-type sapphire crystal caseback offer excellent visibility of all the immaculately finished components, regardless of what side you are viewing. The three bridges are crafted in titanium and treated with a dark PVD finish which contrasts with the other non-darkened components. Despite the appearance of being a hand wound movement, this is actually an automatic, wound by a white gold micro-rotor which is located behind the mainspring barrel that is located at 12 o’clock. The power reserve is 60-hours. In addition to the case and bridges, the

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Jason Pitsch

SIHH 2018: Ressence Type 2 e-Crown

Jason Pitsch

Ressence has just debuted a self-setting mechanical watch called the Type 2 e-Crown Concept. This is similar to technology already being used in watches such as the Casio Gravitmaster GPW2000 but with a key difference being that Type 2 e-Crown is based on a mechanical watch movement, not a quartz. Basically, Ressence has added an additional e-Crown system to their existing design which couples a Swiss base movement with a custom ROCS module that displays the time via unique discs that rotate around the dial. The system, developed by Ressence, allows the wearer to have the watch set itself via a Bluetooth connection to its smartphone app. The e-Crown requires electronic energy which is generated by kinetic movement (first) or photovoltaic energy (second) taken via 10 micro-shutters that open up on the dial when needed. The result, when combined with

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