Vacheron Constantin has announced that they will produce a new chronograph based on a rare vintage reference from the 1950s – to debut at Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong next month.
The Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Chronograph will retain the two-register layout of the original (ref. 6087), as well as its distinctive Cornes de Vache “cow horn” lugs. The case is slightly larger than the 6087 at 38.5 mm by 10.9 mm, but still very conservative and sure to please the serious collectors who the watch targets.
Powering the watch is caliber 1142 which is a movement originally based on Lemania and that has been reworked and is now made in-house. The movement now has a free-sprung balance and beats at 3Hz versus 2.5Hz (which the Lemania 2310 runs at). The chronograph levers have been redesigned, and now the column wheel is adorned with the Maltese cross (that looks totally awesome), and overall the VC-level finishing is of course, impeccable.
According to The Hour Lounge, in total, there were only 36 ever made: 26 in yellow gold, eight in pink gold and two in platinum. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s chronographs, the 6087 is one of the rare. In fact, one sold at Christie’s last June for $40,000. That said, this will not be a limited edition but its production will be limited.
A fully polished platinum case with pump pushers and the signature cow horn lugs (as mentioned above) is matched with a silver opaline dial with blue accents, resulting in a modern appearance despite the historic inspiration of the design. Hour, minute, and second hands are polished and the chronograph minute and second hands are in blued steel. Hours are marked by a mixture of indexes and Roman numerals, that has been hand applied to the dial. The tachymetric scale is printed on the outer ring in dark blue and the minute scale is printed inside of that in black.
Breguet and Patek also use the Lemania chronograph base, however, Patek Philippe has already progressed to the in-house chronograph caliber CH 29-535 PS, which powers the 5170G.
Presented on a dark blue alligator strap with a platinum buckle with a Maltese cross. Retail is expected to be around $67,500. (Ref. 5000H/000P-B058)
Photos by Vacheron Constantin.