Grand Seiko undoubtedly makes attractive, premium timepieces.
For as long as I can remember, people in the watch world told me how great of a deal Grand Seiko timepieces are — and how they’re a sleeper brand. Initially, I was wary but after researching the brand and hearing a dozen people tell me how great they are — I eventually fell under the Grand Seiko spell.
With the success of Grand Seiko’s marketing strategy — undercutting the prices of Swiss competition— the company presumably achieved its goal of penetrating the highly lucrative US market.
This I speculate led to significant changes to Grand Seiko’s US strategy based on changes made to the US management structure in 2016. By 2017, the company that once represented an amazing value in watchmaking had started raising prices, and by 2019 it was clear that undercutting the competition was no longer Grand Seiko’s strategy.
Underscoring the brand-wide pricing increases was this Grand Seiko Masterpiece Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009J (pictured in 2019). In hand and on the wrist, I could tell it was an ideal size for a dress watch (38.5 mm x 9.8 mm) and it looked great with a fully hand-engraved 950 platinum dial and case. However, when I was told the retail price was $100K — it caused me to burst out laughing.
I truly thought it had to be a joke. However, it was not a joke, and six years later Grand Seiko still carries inventory from the exact 50-piece limited edition on its official US website.
At the time, I said something like “That’s way too much” and while I could tell that comment did not please the corporate Grand Seiko marketing representative, it was an honest statement from someone who has no incentive whether the watch sells or not.
You won’t read this via the “typical” publications incentivized to sell Grand Seikos: The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Limited Edition Ref. SBGZ009J features an attractive hand-engraved platinum case and dial but is not worth anything near six figures. Nobody wants a Spring Drive-powered Grand Seiko (non-Credor) dress watch for $100K — hand engraved or not. If you’re a savvy buyer, you’re much better off buying something like a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 dress watch in precious metal with similar dimensions, more prestige, better movement finishing, and a far better resale value for a fourth or fifth of the price (approximately $20K-$25K).
