UK-based watchmaker Garrick, who we covered here, created a new version of their Regulator watch with a new engine turned (guilloche) dial.
A “regulator” watch separates the hours, minutes, and seconds in to distinctive displays on the dial. To achieve this the hands need to be non-coaxial, meaning they do not share a central pinion. However, despite not sharing a pinion the movement is the same as a typical watch uses (a Unitas 6497 is used here). Historically, watchmakers would use regulators as highly accurate reference timepieces to help time and adjust their watches.
The Regulator Engine Turned Dial watch comes in a 42 mm diameter case which, interestingly, is made from 904L, not 316L stainless steel, which is the same steel used by Rolex, and a material I cannot recall any watchmaker other than Rolex using. The crown and strap buckle are made of traditional 316L steel.
The silver engine turned dial is created by hand (as opposed to CNC) using a rose-engine lathe, and is available in a choice of patterns and finishes. A lathe is hand driven, not by electricity, and the cuts into the dial (guilloche-work) are controlled by pressure on the cutting-head against the surface (dial in this case) from the operator as the wheel rotates.
Each of the three steel hands (hours, minutes, and small seconds) are also handmade and can be either frosted, polished, or blued. Black subdials with white printed numerals are set against the silver guilloche background providing a nice contrast and enhancing visibility.
Driving the three-hands is a modified Unitas 6497 which is a widely used manual wind watch, and this particular version has a screwed balance (which is not standard on the caliber) and a unique gear train.
The watch is shown with a circular barleycorn motif that “emanates from the center, steadily increasing in size, enriching the dial vista with a lustrous and dynamic appearance.”
The movement is inverted with the balance wheel located at 10 o’clock and visible thanks to an openwork balance bridge which allows a view of the wheel oscillating to and fro. Within the same cut-out at 10 o’clock you can also see a portion of the center wheel.
Garrick timepieces are handcrafted in limited numbers by master watchmaker Craig Baird in the company’s Norfolk workshop, and it’s worth noting that although this particular watch uses a modified Unitas 6497 (ETA) some of the movements are made in-house, meaning that Garrick is a real manufacture.
Retail is approximately $8,400. Learn more at Garrick.