Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris line, which started with the Memovox Polaris in 1968, and was reintroduced in modern form in 2018, is now available with a perpetual calendar for the first time.
The Polaris Perpetual Calendar comes in a 42 mm x 11.97 mm case, in stainless steel or 18K pink gold. Accentuated by a deep gradient-blue lacquer dial, the latest Polaris is surrounded by the signature rotating inner bezel, which has graduated 0-60 markings on the flange and is controlled by the crown at 2 o’clock. The crown at 4 o’clock is used for setting the time and winding the watch. And the calendar functions are set via a single recessed pushed located on the case flank.
Interestingly, the dial displays quite a few functions, in a highly legible way, as you would expect from a sports watch, despite the fact that perpetual calendars are not usually associated with sporty watches. The standard hours, minutes, and seconds are indicated via skeletonized steel hands for hours and minutes and a needle-shaped center second hand. Applied indices mark all the hours, except at 12, which has an Arabic numeral.
Using four subdials, Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to pack a slew of functions within this perpetual calendar wristwatch. At 12, the hand points to the outer section of the subdial, indicating the current month, while two apertures in the center of the same subdial show the year. The display at 3 shows the current day of the week and opposite that at 9 the current date 0-31 is displayed. The date adjusts by itself all year long, even in February, which is the marquee function of a perpetual calendar. On the bottom of the dial, the subdial indicates the current moon phase for both the Southern Hemisphere (the retrograde display on the outer section of the subdial) and the Northern Hemisphere (a traditional moonphase display on the inner section). Lastly, between the hours of 20:00 and 4:00 the security zone indicator in the center of the dial shows red to warn you not to adjust the time or calendar indications at that time to prevent damage to the movement.
To achieve this level of complication, Jaeger-LeCoultre has evolved the existing 4HZ automatic caliber 868AA perpetual movement, which was introduced in 2013, with significant modifications to allow for the retrograde Southern Moon Phases that complement the classical Nothern Hemisphere moon phases, as well as increasing the power reserve to 70-hours. As you can see, the movement has Geneva stripes, perlage, blue screws, and a pink gold skeletonized rotor. The balance wheel is free-sprung, however, and is supported by a single-arm balance bridge.
Completing the 2022 Polaris Perpetual Calendar is a stainless steel bracelet and a rubber strap (Ref. Q9088180), with a toolless quick-release system, and the 18K pink gold version (Ref. Q9082680) comes with a rubber strap and an alligator leather strap, but no bracelet option. A box-type domed sapphire crystal protects the dial side, with a screw-in sapphire caseback, dual screw-down crowns, and the watch’s depth rating is 100 meters.
The 2022 Polaris Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel retails for $29,600 and the 18K pink gold model retails for $44,300.
Photos by Jaeger-LeCoultre.