In the past, Tissot watches had a similar, desirable period-specific aesthetic as vintage brands like Nivada Grenchen, Mido, Dugena, and many others.
Fast forward to today, Nivada Grenchen makes faithful recreations of past models, Dugena is not currently in business, and Mido and Tissot (owned by the Swatch Group) have been streamlined as entry-level volume watches that hardly resemble the designs of the past.
Tissot is the volume entry-level brand of the Swatch Group and while the cases are not plastic like Swatches, there are sometimes plastic components used in Tissot watch movements — which are produced in a fully automated way — to reduce costs. Over the years, Tissot has delivered some interesting innovations such as the T-Touch collection of tactile watches, the Powermatic 80 with a long 80-hour power reserve, and even this retro model called 1973 Tissot Navigator Chronograph, which looks good but not quite as nice as the original model it’s based on.
Enter the Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical hand-wound chronograph that has retro cues that harken back to the 1970 model of the same name (similar to what Tissot is doing with the PRX line) — though the new iteration is not an entirely faithful version of the PR516 Chronograph (and is marketed as a modern T-Sport not Heritage model), in the way that Nivada Grenchen, Longines, and even Breitling have been recreating some of their past models. Still, it offers a compelling look, more aligned with slightly upscale brands like Oris or Zodiac. The case shape resembles the Tudor Black Bay, which is significantly further upscale in price, quality, and prestige than a Tissot. Considering this Tissot is almost $2K, it’s hopefully a higher quality than the brand’s sub $1K models.
The Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical (Ref. T1494592105100) is presented in a 41 mm x 13.7 mm stainless steel case (49 mm lug-to-lug) and has a sapphire crystal on both the front (box type) and caseback (flat), however, the fixed tachymeter bezel is made of a mineral crystal (same as is used on Zodiac watches), to reduce costs compared to ceramic or sapphire. On the bracelet, which has a stamped clasp, and quick-release mechanism, the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical weighs in at 160 grams, even less if you opt for a strap. The watch is depth rated to 100 meters.
Driving the hours, minutes, small seconds, and the chronograph is a Valjoux/ETA 7753 derived manually wound caliber A05.291 which has 12-hour and 30-minute counters, along with a central chronograph seconds hand. The manual wound movement beats at 4Hz has a 68-hour power reserve and is completely machine-made with an industrial finish.
The Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical (Ref. T1494592105100) retails for $1,850. There are also three slightly smaller 40 mm Swiss quartz versions with solid casebacks starting at $495. While the quartz versions are priced relatively low, the mechanical model is not inexpensive, in a market with a lot of options both new and pre-owned, so while the watch looks pretty good — all things considered — it’s not likely going to be an easy decision for those that know the market well.
Photos by Tissot.
