This past week, Zenith debuted a watch that diverges from typical LVMH-owned timepiece brands, which have an array of styles most of which represent modern designs. Even when Zenith or TAG Heuer does remake timepieces, they typically utilize modern movements that already exist in their lineup.
This Zenith x Kari Voutilainen Caliber 135 Observatoire limited edition timepiece is powered by a vintage Zenith 135-O that’s been restored by Kari Voutilainen. The dial also comes from the Voutilainen manufacture — and features gorgeous guilloche work combined with rhodium-plated and faceted German silver Dauphine-shaped hands and dagger-shaped faceted indices. At 38 mm x 10.35 mm (46.5 mm lug-to-lug) the platinum case is conservatively sized and has a dressy appearance. Available exclusively from Phillips in a limited edition of 10-pieces. $135,000
Launched in sync with the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix F1 race late last month — which also happens to be where the Monaco name comes — the TAG Heuer Monaco “Dark Lord” Special Edition 2022 Monaco Grand Prix (Ref. CBL2180.FC6497) is not just a homage to the race, but also to the vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” Ref. 74033N. And while it’s not an exact remake, it more or less has the same size case as the predecessor at 39 mm. This iteration is titanium with a DLC coating instead of stainless steel with a PVD coating, and the pushers are tone-on-tone and rectangular versus round and in polished steel. The positioning of the Monaco TAG Heuer emblem at 12 looks similar although the vintage version, of course, had Heuer instead of TAG Heuer. Naturally, a modern caliber Heuer 02 beating at 4Hz and with an 80-hour power reserve is used instead of a Valjoux. $8,200
This past week Audemars Piguet debuted a new Carolina Bucci collaboration timepiece with a unique rainbow dial. The Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm Ref. 77350CE.OO.1266CE.02 features a 34 mm x 8.8 mm black ceramic case with a matching bracelet, 18k pink gold screws, and a titanium caseback. The hours, minutes, seconds, and date are powered by 4Hz automatic caliber 5800 which has a 50-hour power reserve. The timepiece is limited to 300 pieces and is available exclusively at AP Houses and Boutiques. $54,200
On June 1, 2022, MBF announced the company’s first chronograph, developed by Stephen McDonnell, the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO Orange Chronograph. The oversized 44 mm x 18.2 mm zirconium case was used to lighten the otherwise very heavy timepiece. Available in atomic orange as shown, or coal black, most distinctively there are two chronograph displays, each of which can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently of each other. Each has its own set of pushers on its respective side of the case. The fully integrated dual chronograph caliber features a Twinverter switch allowing multiple timing modes and has a flying balance wheel. Thanks to dual mainsprings the manual wind watch can run for up to 72-hours without needing to be rewound. $175,000
Photos by Zenith, TAG Heuer, Audemars Piguet, MBF.