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Caliber Guide

A

A. Lange & Sohne L051.1

A. Lange & Sohne L051.1

German made, manually wound, 30.6 mm/4.6 mm, 188 parts (23 jewels, 5 screwed gold chatons), decorated and assembled by hand. Plates and bridges made of untreated German silver. Balance cock engraved by hand. Lever escapement. Shock-resistant free sprung balance, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring. 55-hour power reserve.

A. Lange & Sohne L102.1

A. Lange & Sohne L102.1

German made, manually wound, 32.6 mm/6.6 mm, 262 parts (20 jewels, including gone diamond endstone, 3 screwed gold chatons). Decorated and assembled by hand. Plates and bridges in untreated German silver. Balance cock engraved by hand. Lever escapement. Shock-resistant screw balance, Lange balance spring, 3Hz, 72-hour power reserve. Patented stop seconds tourbillon. Patented ZERO-RESET tourbillon.

A. Lange & Söhne L043.5

A. Lange & Söhne L043.5

German made, manually wound, 771 parts (of which are 93 jewels, and 3 gold chatons). A patented constant-force escapement delivers a uniform amount of energy during the entire power-reserve period. The three-quarter plate and main plate are made of untreated German silver, the former which is hand decorated with Glashutte stripes and bevelled edges, and the latter features circular graining.

A. Lange & Söhne L121.1

A. Lange & Söhne L121.1

German made, manually wound, 30.6 mm/5.7 mm, 368 components, 43 jewels, 8 gold chatons, 3Hz (21,600 vph), lever escapement, precision adjusted in five positions, plate and bridges made of untreated German silver, balance cock engraved by hand, 72-hour power reserve. Lange in-house balance spring and free sprung balance wheel. Pusher controlled rapid correction outsize date (patented). Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; power-reserve indicator; jumping outsize date.

A. Lange & Söhne L951.5

A. Lange & Söhne L951.5

German made, manually wound, 30.6 mm/7.5 mm, 306 components (including 40 jewels and 4 gold chatons), 4Hz, lever escapement, precision adjusted in five positions, plate and bridges made of untreated German silver, balance cock engraved by hand, 60-hour power reserve, Lange in-house balance spring, free sprung glucydur balance. Column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch. Flyback function with precisely jumping minute counter. Stop seconds.

Alpina AL-710

Alpina AL-710

Swiss made, automatic, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 26 jewels, 42-hour power reserve, and 134 total components. Black rotor mounted on ball-bearings. Bridges and mainplate are are beveled and rhodium-finished. Perlage decoration on mainplate and Geneva stripes on bridges.

Angelus A-250

Angelus A-250

Swiss made, manually wound, 32.60 mm/5.78 mm, 18 jewels in gold chatons, 3Hz (21,600 vph), 90-hour power reserve, variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design. Functions include hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon.

Arnold & Son A&S8305

Arnold & Son A&S8305

Swiss made, automatic, 35 mm/8.15 mm, 30 jewels, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 55-hour power reserve. Ceramic ball bearings for rotor. Palladium treated plate and bridges, hand chamfered with polished edges, circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, all chronograph levers are satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Hand-engraved 22-carat red gold skeletonised rotor with brushed surfaces and chamfered polished edges.

Audemars Piguet 2121

Audemars Piguet 2121

Swiss made, automatic, 28.4 mm/3.05 mm, 36 jewels, 19,800 vph (2.5Hz), 40-hour power reserve, 247 total components. Flat balance spring. Mobile stud holder. Variable inertia (free sprung) balance. The 22K rose gold skeletonized oscillating weight is guided by a peripheral ring rolling on four ruby runners, which reduces friction and wear to the minimum possible. Bidirectional winding. Manual finishing of the bridges: polished bevels, satin brushed edges, and Geneva stripes. Perlage on the mainplate.

Audemars Piguet 2923

Audemars Piguet 2923

Swiss made, manually wound, 34.60 mm/12.70mm, 413 components, 34 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Nickel silver mainplate and center bridge. Blackened components. Straight grained finishes. Sandblasted. Black polished steel column wheels. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, double central chronograph hands with laptimer function and 30-minute counter.

Audemars Piguet 3120

Audemars Piguet 3120

Swiss made, automatic, 26 mm/4.26 mm, 40 jewels, 21,600 vph (3Hz), 60-hour power reserve, 280 total components. Variable intertia (free sprung) balance. Bidirectional winding. Screwed mobile stud. Hours, minutes, center seconds, date. Stop seconds. 22K rose gold engraved oscillating weight with ceramic ball bearings. Diamond graved bevelled bridges. Inverted snailing and Geneva stripes on bridges. Perlage on mainplate.

Audemars Piguet 3126

Audemars Piguet 3126

Swiss made, automatic, 26.6 mm/4.26 mm, 21,600 vph (3Hz). Kif shock absorption, Gyromax variable inertia (free sprung) balance. Circular graining, Geneva stripes, Nivarox 1 balance spring, uncut hoop, 60-hour power reserve. Bidirectional winding. Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.

B

Breitling B01

Breitling B01

Swiss made, automatic, 30 mm/7.2mm, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 47 jewels. Column-wheel and horizontal clutch. Hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph. Breitling's first ever in-house made movement.

Breitling B04

Breitling B04

Swiss made, automatic, 47 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz), COSC certified, 70-hour power reserve, 24-hour 2nd time zone, 1/4th second chronograph, date.

Bulgari BVL 362

Bulgari BVL 362

Swiss made, manually wound, 28.50 mm/3.12 mm, 3Hz (21,600 vph), 42-hour power reserve. Geneva stripes, perlage, chamfering. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater.

C

Cartier 1904-MC

Cartier 1904-MC

Swiss made, automatic, 25.6 mm/4 mm, hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar, 27 jewels, 28,8000 vph (4Hz), 48-hour power reserve. Geneva stripes on bridges and oscillating weight. Circular graining on the mainplate.

Cartier 9406 MC

Cartier 9406 MC

Swiss made, automatic, 39.3 mm/5.49 mm (6.7 mm with tourbillon), 47 jewels, 578 parts, 3Hz (21,600 vph), 50-hour power reserve. A special two-level micro-rotor enables a reduction in winding speed while limiting energy loss. Functions include hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, flying tourbillon.

Chopard 03.05-M

Chopard 03.05-M

Swiss made, automatic, 28.80 mm/7.60mm, 310 parts, 45 jewels, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 60-hour power reserve. Balance wheel with four spokes, micro-regulator with screws. Flat balance spring. Bridges with see-through engine finish, circular-grained mainplate. COSC certified chronometer. Functions include hours and minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, chronograph, flyback function, tachymeter, stop seconds.

Chopard 03.10-L

Chopard 03.10-L

Swiss made, manually wound, 33 mm/8.32 mm, 42 jewels, 4Hz (28,800 kph), 60-hour power reserve. Mainplate and bridges made of nickel silver. Finished with Côtes de Genève , circular graining, chamfering, satin-brushing, and polishing. COSC certified chronometer and Poinçon de Genève. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, day, month, chronograph (seconds, minutes, hours - designed with red tips), and phases of the moon. Column-wheel and vertical clutch chronograph. Traversing balance bridge. Had-bevelled bridges. LUC manufacture.

E

ETA 2824-2

ETA 2824-2

Swiss made, automatic, 25.60 mm/4.6 mm, 28,8000 vph (4Hz), 25 jewels. Hours, minutes, sweep second, date, corrector, stop second device. ETACHRON regulator system and regulator corrector. This is one of the main workhouse ETA calibers. Comes in Standard, Elaborated (improved), Top and Chronometer grades.

ETA 2892

ETA 2892

Swiss made, automatic, 25.6 mm / 3.6 mm, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz) nickel plated, Incabloc shock protection, sweep seconds, date at 3 o'clock. This is considered the higher quality of the basic ETA calibers. It is available in Elaborated, Top and Chronometer grades.

G

Glashutte Original 58-01

Glashutte Original 58-01

German made, manually wound, 35 mm/6.47 mm, 4Hz (28,800 vph), power reserve 45-hours approx. (44:40), screw balance with 18 regulation screws, Anachron balance spring, Incabloc shock protection, 58 jewels (including 4 gold chatons). German silver three-quarter plate with stripes, and chamfered and polished edges, hand polished blued screws, and hand engraved balance bridge.

Grand Seiko 9S64A

Grand Seiko 9S64A

Japanese made, manually wound, 28.4 mm/4.9 mm, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 72-hour power reserve, SPRON510 (proprietary) alloy mainspring, SPRON610 (proprietary) alloy balance spring that is highly shock resistant and anti-magnetic.

H

H. Moser & Cie 230

H. Moser & Cie 230

Swiss made, automatic, 21,600 vph (3Hz), 72-hour power reserve. Bi-directional pawl-winding system. Black skeletonized rotor with gold engraved emblem. Traversing balance bridge. Perlage decoration on mainplate. Geneva stripes on bridges. Bevelled edges on bridges. Hours, minutes, and central seconds.

Heuer Caliber 11

Heuer Caliber 11

Swiss made, manually wound, 19,800 vph, 17 jewels. Produced by group of watchmakers: Heuer/Breitling/Hamilton/Dubois Depraz. At the time is was designed to compete against Movado/Zenith, who were producing the El Primero. The Caliber 11 is said to have been unveiled over a month before the 1969 Basel Fair, which is when Zenith/Movado introduced the El Primero movement. The Caliber 11 is regarded as the first automatic chronograph.

I

IWC 52610

IWC 52610

Swiss made, automatic, 54 jewels, 38.20 mm 28,800 (4Hz), 168-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date, month, perpetual calendar, year, moonphase, power reserve. Twin barrels, solid gold skeleton rotor. The winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic while the rotor bearing is made of white ceramic. Released in 2015 and based on caliber 52010.

J

Jaeger LeCoultre 896

Jaeger LeCoultre 896

Swiss made, automatic, 32 jewels, 223 components, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 43-hour power reserve. The watch has a 22-carat gold weight segment. Hours, minutes, seconds.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 770

Jaeger-LeCoultre 770

Swiss made, automatic, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 36 jewels, Gyrolab balance, solid pink gold skeletonized rotor, blued screws, Geneva strips, ceramic ball bearings, traversing balance bridge. Hours, minutes, true second (deadbeat second hand) and date.

L

Lemania 5100

Lemania 5100

Swiss made, automatic, 31mm/8.2mm, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 21g. Glucydur balance, Nivarox 1 flat balance spring, Kif shock absorber, Nivaflex mainspring. Central minute counter, 24h indicator and 12-hour counter sub-dial. Day and date.

Leroy L200AL

Leroy L200AL

Swiss made, manually wound, 42 jewels, twin barrels, 98-hour power reserve. A circular 3-way balance bridge provides robust support to the screwed balance and direct impulse escapement system for increased accuracy. The main plate and bridges are in aluminum that has a frosted finish with beveled polished edges and blued screws with polished heads.

M

Miyota 8215

Miyota 8215

Japanese made, automatic, 21 jewels, 26 mm diameter and the thickness 5.67 mm, frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz).

N

NOMOS Glashütte Alpha

NOMOS Glashütte Alpha

German made, manually wound, 23.3 mm/2.6 mm, 43-hour power reserve. Decentralized seconds, stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, 17 ruby bearings, Glashütte stopwork, Incabloc shock protection, balance spring from Nivarox 1A, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage, ratchet and crown wheel with Glashütte sunburst.

NOMOS Glashütte Epsilon

NOMOS Glashütte Epsilon

German made, automatic, 31 mm/4.3 mm, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 43-hour power reserve. Hour, minutes, small second, stop second device. Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, bidirectional winding rotor, Incabloc shock protection, Nivarox 1A balance spring, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage, ratchet and duplex wheel with Glashütte sunburst.

O

Omega 321

Omega 321

Swiss made, manually wound, based on a design development project titled "27 CHRO C12" (27 mm diameter, chronograph, with extra 12-hour register) took place in the 1940's by Albert Piguet and Jaques Reymond as a joint developement project between Omega and Lemania. Launched in 1942, the 27 CHRO C12 later became known as the Lemania 2310, or Omega c.321).

Omega 8500/8501

Omega 8500/8501

Swiss made, automatic, 29 mm/5.5 mm, 39 jewels, 25,200 vph, 60-hour power reserve. Hours, minutes, center seconds, date, chronometer, modification (Omega 8501) - 2007. (Reference: Omega)

Omega 9300

Omega 9300

Swiss made, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Adjusted in 5 postions. Co-Axial escapement, Si14 Silicium balance wheel with DLC coating, two barrels, column wheel, vertical clutch, traversing balance bridge.

Omega 9301

Omega 9301

Swiss made, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Adjusted in 5 postions. Co-Axial escapement, Si14 Silicium balance wheel with DLC coating, two barrels, column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, traversing balance bridge. Gold rotor and balance bridge (otherwise the same as caliber 9300)

Omega 9904

Omega 9904

Swiss made, automatic, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 368 components, 54 jewels, 60-hour power reserve. 15,000 Gauss a/m, METAS-certified Master Chronometer. Silicon "Si14" balance spring, Omega free sprung-balance, Co-Axial Escapement, NIVACHOC, rhodium-plated rotor and bridges, Geneva waves in arabesque, and blackened screws, blackened barrels, and blackened balance wheel. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, date by hand, moonphase.

P

Panerai P.9000

Panerai P.9000

Swiss made, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 28 jewels, 197 components, 72-hour power reserve. Twin mainsprings. Single-piece rotor winds the movement by moving in both directions thanks to an automatic ratchet device. Balance wheel is free sprung and adjusted via screws. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, and date. Stop seconds with jump hour function.

Patek Philippe 240 HU

Patek Philippe 240 HU

Swiss made, automatic, 27.50 mm/3.88 mm, 3Hz (21,600 vph), 48-hour power reserve, 239 total components, 33 jewels. Geneva strips, perlage, chamfering. Gyromax balance free sprung balance and Spiromax balance spring. Functions include hours, minutes, display of 24 time zones with synchronized adjustment of displays in one-hour steps for the hour hand and 1/24th counterclockwise increments for the city disk and the 24-hour ring, day/night indication.

Patek Philippe 324 S Q

Patek Philippe 324 S Q

Swiss made, automatic, 32 mm/4.97mm, 367 parts, 29 jewels, perpetual calendar with day/night indication, 45-hour power reserve, 21K gold unidirectional rotor, Gyromax® balance wheel, Spiromax® balance spring, 4Hz (28,800 vph). Geneva stripes on the bridges, beveled and chamfered edges, perlage on the mainplate, Patek Philippe Seal.

Patek Philippe 324 SC

Patek Philippe 324 SC

Swiss made, automatic, 27 mm/3.3 mm, 29 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 213 components, Gyromax® balance, 6 bridges, 45-hour power reserve. Patek Philippe Seal. Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds and date.

Patek Philippe CH 29-535 PS

Patek Philippe CH 29-535 PS

Swiss made, manually wound, 29.6 mm/5.35 mm, 33 jewels, 269 components, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 65-hour power reserve. Column wheel chronograph with horizontal clutch. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-second chronograph and stop seconds. Classical bridges that are chamfered, polished, and decorated with Geneva striping.

Piaget 883P

Piaget 883P

Swiss made, manually wound, 4.65 mm thick, flyback chronograph, column-wheel with vertical clutch, 2nd timezone, 50-hour power reserve. Decorations: circular Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, sunburst wheels and blued screws.

R

Rolex 3132

Rolex 3132

Swiss made, automatic, 28.50 mm, 31 jewels, 48-hours, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Functions include hours, minutes, seconds. Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex sshoc absorbers.

Rolex 3135

Rolex 3135

Swiss made, automatic, self-winding, 28.5 mm/6.0 mm, 4Hz, 31 jewels, 50-hour power reserve. Full "traversing" balance bridge (fixed at both sides to improve resistance to shocks and vibrations). Free sprung Glucydur balance wheel. Instantaneous date change.

Rolex 3136

Rolex 3136

Swiss made, automatic, 28.50 mm, 31 jewels, 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, date. COSC-certified chronometer. Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.

Rolex 3186

Rolex 3186

Swiss made, automatic, 31 jewels, 28.5 mm diameter, 28,800 (4Hz), 50-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, additional 24 hour hand (controlled by crown). COSC-certified chronometer. Parachrom hairspring.

Rolex 3255

Rolex 3255

Swiss made, automatic, 28,800 (4Hz), Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, 70-hour power reserve, COSC certified.

Rolex 4130

Rolex 4130

Swiss made, automatic, 30.5mm/6.5mm, 4Hz, 72-hour power reserve. Column-wheel and vertical clutch chronograph. Parachrom in-house hairspring (made of niobium and zirconium). Free sprung balance wheel. Full "traversing" balance bridge (fixed at both sides to improve resistance to shocks and vibrations).

S

Sellita SW200

Sellita SW200

Swiss made, automatic, 25.60 mm / 4.60 mm, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz). 38-hour power reserve. Clone of ETA 2824-2.

Sellita SW300

Sellita SW300

Swiss made, automatic, 25.60 mm/3.60 mm, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Hour, minute, center seconds. 42-hour power reserve. Date corrector and stop second device.

Sellita SW500

Sellita SW500

Swiss made, automatic, 30 mm/7.90 mm, 25 jewels, 28,8000 vph (4Hz). Hours, minutes, small seconds, day and date, chronograph (60-second, 30-minute, 12-hour counters). Stop second device. 48-hour power reserve.

T

TAG Heuer 1887

TAG Heuer 1887

Swiss made, automatic, 50-hour maximum power reserve. 28,800 vph (4Hz) column wheel chrono, oscillating pinion. Japanese IP used to design the caliber (Seiko).

TAG Heuer 1969

TAG Heuer 1969

Swiss made, automatic, self-winding, 80-hour power reserve. 28,800 vph (4Hz), column wheel, vertical clutch, Atokalpa hairspring and regulated balance wheel, KIF shock. Geneva stripes, blackened skeletonized rotor.

U

Unitas 6498-1

Unitas 6498-1

Swiss made, manually wound, 36.6 mm/4.5mm, 17 jewels, 44 degree lift angle. 18,000 vph (2Hz) Originally a pocket watch movement, but now it is being sold as a wristwatch movement. It is 16.5 ligne, with a 17 jewels and incablock shock protection. ETA owns this movement and now stamps it "ETA".

V

Vacheron Constantin 1003

Vacheron Constantin 1003

Swiss made, manually wound, 21.10 mm/1.64 mm, 117 components, 18 jewels, 18,000 vph (2.5Hz), 31-hour power reserve. Bridges and mainplate in 18K gold. Functions: hours and minutes.

Vacheron Constantin 1142

Vacheron Constantin 1142

Swiss made, manually wound, 21,600 vph (3Hz), 27.50 mm/5.57 mm, 164 components, 21 jewels, 48-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, chronograph with 30-minute counter. Hallmark of Geneva. Maltese cross adorned column-wheel.

Vacheron Constantin 1731

Vacheron Constantin 1731

Swiss made, manually wound, 32.80 mm/3.90mm, 265 components, 36 jewels, 21,600 vph (3Hz), 65-hour power reserve. Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater.

Vacheron Constantin 1990

Vacheron Constantin 1990

Swiss made, manually wound, 35 mm/10 mm, 2.5Hz (18,000 vph), 65-hour power reserve, 299 total components, 45 jewels. NAC black treatment on plates and bridges. Geneva stripes, perlage, chamfering. Instantaneous retrograde hours, Instantaneous retrograde minutes, small seconds on tourbillon cage, 2 axis armillary tourbillon.

Vacheron Constantin 2460 WT

Vacheron Constantin 2460 WT

Swiss made, automatic, 36.6 mm/7.55 mm, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 255 components, 27 jewels, 40-hour power reserve, 22K gold rotor. Functions include hours, minutes, central seconds, world time (37 cities), day-night indication.

Vacheron Constantin 3750

Vacheron Constantin 3750

Swiss made, manually wound, 242 jewels, 5 plates, 2800 components, dual dials. 57 functions: Time functions (6), Perpetual calendar functions: Gregorian and Hebraic (15), Astronomic calendar functions (9), Lunar calendar function (1), Religious calendar function (1), Chronograph (3 column-wheels) functions (4), Alarm functions (6), Westminster Carillon striking functions (8), Further functions (7).

Valjoux 7750

Valjoux 7750

Swiss made, automatic, 30 mm /7.9 mm, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Unidirectional winding. The Valjoux 7750 is also called the ETA 7750. It is one of the most common chronograph configurations and is highly reliable.

Vaucher 5401

Vaucher 5401

Swiss made, automatic, micro-rotor with ceramic ball bearings, 30 mm/2.6 mm, 176 components, 29 jewels, 3Hz (21,600 vph), 42-hour power reserve. Variable inertia balance rapid rotation barrel, circular-grained plate on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining below the balance, rhodium-plated, bridges with Côtes de Genève decor, rhodium-plated. Counterbores and apertures diamond-polished. Bridges hand-bevelled with piercer. Pivots and flanges rolled. Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces.

Z

Zenith El Primero 410

Zenith El Primero 410

Swiss made, automatic, 31 jewels, 36,000 vph (5Hz), 390 total components and a 50-hour power reserve. Functions include central hours and minutes, small seconds, day/date/month, moonphase indication and chronograph.